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COUP de COEUR ! Bijoux « football-esques » de Carole Deltenre …

……. dans un très sympathique « concept-store » de boutiques éphèméres à Strasbourg (France) : « Hic & Nunc » ! :-)

COUP de COEUR !  Bijoux


Les bijoux de Carole Deltenre qui y sont proposés m’ont fait éclater de rire ! bon point, en cette triste journée pluvieuse ! :-)
« Un hommage sarcastique aux stars du foot » !! « De la série de broches Idoles. Fétichisation du corps et de ses apprêts, reliques absurdes de fragments de stars enfermées définitivement dans ces boites cercueils. »

écoutez plutôt :

Broche Zidane.Broche Youri
Carole Deltenre- « Broche Zidane« . Ici sèche une goutte de sueur de Zinédine Zidane (!!). Broche en argent gravée, pièce unique.
« Broche Youri« . Ici repose un poil de Youri Djorkaeff. Un hommage sarcastique aux stars du foot. Pièce unique. En argent

Broche SahaBroche Makelele
Carole Deltenre. « Broche Saha » – Ci-gît un crampon cassé de Louis Saha. Broche en argent gravée, pièce unique
« Broche Makelele » – Ci-gît une partie du maillot déchiré de Claude Makélélé.Broche en argent gravée. Pièce unique


« Carole Deltenre aime les bijoux qui portent un sens. Les relations homme/femme, l’excision, la séduction dans les rapports humains sont autant de thèmes qui nourrissent son travail. En boucles d’oreilles, bracelet ou broche, le sexe féminin s’affiche sans pudeur. A l’ESAD de Strasbourg, elle présentait en fin d’étude ces camées revisitées, « Nymphes », qui révélaient des sexes féminins étonnamment précis. Elle expose régulièrement ses bijoux lors d’expositions consacrées au bijou contemporain. »


Vous trouverez également des bijoux de Joseph Kieffer, Annie Sibert, Christophe Marguier.

pendentif cage

Jospeh Kieffer- Collier billes en cage- Une petite cage qui abrite quatre billes argentées et noircies. Une cage sans oiseau mais abritant un petit bout de cosmos. Pièce unique. Pendentif en acier, soudure en argent et chaine en argent. 


Prochain rendez-vous :

Du jeudi 26 au samedi 29 mai.

affiche-web%20mini dans Christophe MARGUIER (FR)


contact :

China Academy of Art – Workshop of Paper Jewelry

China Academy of Art

The China Academy of Art was founded by the renowned educator Mr. Cai Yuanpei in 1928 promoting fine arts education to replace religion in the then war-torn China. Thus, fine arts has been put to the height of religion in this institution for almost eight decades. The academy has fostered many renowned artists who have became major artistic forces in the country. The Academy has the most complete range of degree offerings and programs of study in fine arts in China. There are eight schools under its jurisdiction offering Ph.D., master’s and bachelor’s degrees in fine arts, design, architecture, multi-media and film.

ouvrages d’élèves :

China Academy of Art -Sun Ying bracelet 'architecture'China Academy of Art - Wu BO necklace 'restrict'
 Sun Ying -bracelet ‘Architecture’ – papier- 2008
Wu Bo – necklace ‘Restrict’ 2008

This one-month (8mars-10avril 2010) workshop focused on paper material design in the jewelry major of China Academy of Art. Combined with textile, leather, metal wire during the process, students are very much encouraged to experiment on the possible elements that they can compose in jewelry by cuting, burning, kniting, sewing, folding, layering, coloring and any other approches. Some may take consideration on structures while the other ones tend to explore texture of this material. Therefore, they start to create an individual language in the jewelry-paper conversation.

China Academy of Art - Ling LI brooch - paperWan ting Zhang (China)- ring 'Series curl' 2010 paper, copper
Ling Li - brooch Paper 2010
Wan ting Zhang – ring ‘Series curl’ 2010 paper, copper

Chen XU (China) brooch 'her lonely fantasy as fallen fireworks' paper, steel wireDi Fu (China)- necklace 'The memory of paper' 2010 paper, iron wire
Chen Xü - brooch ‘Her lonely fantasy as fallen fireworks’ 2010 specialty paper, steel wire
Di Fu – necklace ‘The memory of paper’ 2010 paper, iron wire

Shu hang Wu (China) - bracelet 'The language of flowers' paperShu hang Wu (China)- Bracelet 'Wearable time' 2010 paper
Shu hang Wu – bracelet ‘The language of flowers’ paper  — Bracelet ‘Wearable time’ paper, leather

Jie xin Chen (China)- necklace 'Rhythm' Paper 2010

Jie xin Chen – necklace ‘Rhythm’ Paper 2010


China Academy of Art, Xiang Shan Campus
Xiang shan Road No.352
- Zhuan tang Town, Hang zhou (China)
Telephone: +86 571 872 003 32

Semantics of the word « jewel » – by Manuel Vilhena

Classé dans : Manuel VILHENA (PT),Reflexion — bijoucontemporain @ 3:20

Do we need a different name for the work we do ? Do people understand us when we talk about « contemporary jewellery »?
This short essay investigates the actual concept of jewellery and how artists would like it to be perceived.
Manuel Vilhena – brooch

jew.el ( n.
1. A precious stone; gem
2. Costly ornament of precious metal or gems
3. Little pieces of happiness
4. Small, hard to find, get or keep, beautiful things or people
5. The result of the process of speaking jewellery
6. An object that pierces or is pierced by the body
7. Bodily ornaments.

jew.el ( n2.
1. Object to be worn on/in/by the body – to be worn on the head such as crowns, diadems, tiaras, aigrettes, hairpins, earrings, nose rings, ear plugs; on the neck in the form of collars, necklaces, pendants and chains, on the limbs in the form of rings, bracelets, armlets, anklets and toe rings; as touch objects carried in the hand or pockets; implemented in the inside of the body via the digestive or other tracts, or by surgery.

Jewels have always fascinated man. Independent of the reasons for such attraction, which explanation will surely fall into the domains of anthropology, psychology, philosophy or metaphysics and where I feel uninvited to wander, they have been present throughout the ages in the lives and times of our ancestors and are present in our lives nowadays.

Probably, if not surely the oldest art form in itself, jewellery has always inhabited a space of its own, creating a border lined definition of what is what and what goes where. The use of specific materials, the ways of using them, the idea of preciousness, unattainability. The obvious is that, independent of its own definitions and rules, jewels keep, have always kept and surely will continue to keep this attractiveness and desirability that seduces men and women alike to fall out of grace and spend their hard earned money on an object many would deem logically, practically and definitely useless.

So what is the driving force of this seductive power that jewels possess? We could draw a simple four fold diagram showing the words: Body, Mind, Soul, Spirit and then proceed to explain how and why wearing jewels actually fulfils such parameters (ornament, social status recognition, the landmark of a feeling, talismans, etc.). I will not do that, it would be matter for another discussion.

The seductive power lies in the fact that a jewel is to be part of the body, its function is one and one only, in absolute reality terms: to be worn by the body – nothing else. That sometimes it serves as an ornament or identity badge, as a reminder of days gone by, or feelings, or whatever is a secondary and, in my opinion, quite discardable issue in the context of this text. This brings us to a semantic dilemma though. What about those gold boxes, set with precious stones and magnificent music box devices in hand crafted platinum set with diamonds, gold wrist watches, stone set belt buckles and the like? They surely qualify as Jewels in their own terms, a very broad term, I say. They do not qualify as Jewels in a « related-to-body » term.

If in the past the concept of the word « jewel » was related to temporal preciousness, nowadays, that relationship has collapsed as a result of artistic endeavours, social changes and, I dare say, self consciousness. A new word is urgently needed to help identify things which are different by nature.
For over forty years now, experimentation in the field of artistic jewellery has led to a breaking of the traditional boundaries associated to the concept of jewellery and jewel. A tangible change of values that started to manifest itself from the early sixties transpired to the Jewellery made by individuals who chose this media as an artform and free expressive language (« big name » jewellery houses failed to observe such changes…).

Entering a new century, as we are about to, one of faster-than-light communications, worldwide information, global villages and so on and so forth; now that the illusion of « knowing » is slowly creeping up our sleeves, at least it is time to address things for their name. Let us credit all these artists with enough synergistic power to redefine a concept (as many politicians of charisma did for social paradigms), one that has a new definition at present.

Hence, the word « Jewel » stands for – any object which primary function is: to be worn by the human body and « Jewellery » stands for – a particular kind of language that uses a plethora of construction techniques, with a goldsmith’s « anima » to produce pieces intended to be worn by human(s) (bodies).

We, as jewellers, should not forget our ancestral legacy but should also not fail to address dictionary compilers and the minds of people in general to remind them of this important change of paradigms. Or else, the historical work of hundreds of people, for such a long time has been no more than self indulgence and by no means has it been so.

© Manuel Vilhena, Portugal. 2000



COUP de COEUR ! Mariana Sammartino – plissages de métal

Former industrial designer Mariana Sammartino fashions jewelry by manipulating metal into delicate, organza-like layers..

Superbes plissés de métal qui rappellent très justement, comme le suggère le titre d’un de ses bracelets : « Miyake », les plissés textiles du couturier Issey Miyake.

« I grew up in Argentina, and I’ve spent most of my adult life living, studying, working, and traveling in several different countries. I currently reside in the United States.
In search of my own identity against the backdrop of shifting settings and diverse cultures I’ve become a keen observant and critic of my surroundings.
I’m deeply provoked by the clashing and intersecting between the natural and the man-made in urban environments, a relationship that can be simultaneously contradictory and complimentary. In their interaction I discover abstract spatial relationships that I perceive as still images, yet as hardly static. Those framed formal compositions are altered by the observer’s view point, preconceptions, and disposition.
I’m interested in exploring the dynamism of the object relative to the perception and interpretation of those who engage in it: the maker, the viewer, and the wearer.
In my work I translate the coexistence of conflict and harmony by bringing together dissimilar materials to rely upon each other. Modern, industrial, tough, austere stainless steel in the form of mesh cloth becomes a pliable, sensuous, graceful component supported by minimal and geometrically severe silver or gold structures downplaying their opulence and preciousness.
I’m inspired by the inherent characteristics of stainless steel mesh. I’m intrigued by the possibilities it offers for exploration and expression. I enjoy removing it from its original context and assigning it a new purpose, letting the material respond to or resist my ideas. I transform an industrial commodity into a prized object by making thoughtful design, intuitive material manipulation, and thorough process integral to the entire concept.
My jewelry reflects the constant mélange, disparity, and contradiction that occurs within myself and my surroundings, and it’s the product of my need to create harmony assembling different elements that merge in a balanced whole.
While my background in architecture and industrial design has helped shape my current work, in the metalsmith’s studio is where I’m able to develop both as a designer and maker, being in complete control of the piece from conception to realization. I’ve been a full time studio jeweler for the past five years producing one of a kind and custom work.  »
Mariana SammartinoAvenida Atlantica’ bracelet-Stainless steel mesh, gold, diamonds (Photo: David Katz)
« Sonora » brooch
« Cruz del Sur » Bracelet    —   « Miyake » Bracelet
    « City of Lights » Brooch 


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