DECOUVERTE : Karen Elizabeth Donovan – titanium from the Highlands

Karen Elizabeth Donovan, Edinburgh College of Art, MA Distinction (june 2014), masterfully moves that hardest of metals titanium to create exquisite filigree-like necklaces bracelets and Highland Clan brooches gently tinted in blues, greens and golds. Scotland’s rich social history, its flora, and the materiality of titanium are her inspiration: “Plants define the character of a Nation or place. In Vermont, where I was born, we define ourselves by the Maple Tree. In Scotland we are often defined by the Thistle…..Titanium has a certain feel to it; a noise it makes when I brush my hand across it, and a smell it creates when I pierce, file and sand it. It is lightweight, strong, durable, and springy. It presents challenges to overcome and work around. It is sensual and it is home.”

Karen Elizabeth Donovan – 2014 Chain No. 1, Titanium – masters degree work

Karen Elizabeth Donovan – 2014 Chain No. 1, Titanium – masters degree work- detail

Karen Elizabeth Donovan -  2014 Lace, Titanium  – masters degree work

Karen Elizabeth Donovan - 2014 Silver, Titanium and Sterling Silver – masters degree work

Karen Elizabeth Donovan – 2014 « Overgrown », Titanium, Niobium and Silver – masters degree work

Karen Elizabeth Donovan – 2014 Highland Clan Badges: Murray, Titanium and Steel

Karen Elizabeth Donovan -  MacDonald clan badge shown with heather  – How I envisioned them being used. With the concept of my Highland Clan Badges being used to identify the clan a person come from based on the plant they are wearing, these invite the wearer to pick their on sprig of Heather, Myrtle or Juniper!

Coup de coeur : Andrea Coderch Valor

Petit point après petit point, petit trou après petit trou, lentement retracer le souvenir … (cf collection « Querida Yun » d’Andrea Coderch Valor)
le temps du souvenir,
le temps de la mémoire,
le temps de l’apprentissage,
le temps de faire,
avec patience, méticulosité, amour ….
ainsi tisse le temps ….
et la beauté ultime, souvent reste trésor caché (le dos du bijou étant souvent encore plus beau que le devant …)

From 2011, at Alchimia school, some projects began their life under the Peter Bauhuis & Doris Maninger guidance :

The Hana Collection : Japanese kimono flowers are the source of inspiration for the Hana Collection. Once a silhouette was selected a series of jewelry techniques were applied to transfer the design from fabric to metal.  With the same care and attention as can be seen in many Japanese art forms I applied the same delicacy to each individual piece. Gold, Silver, Shibuichi (a Japanese alloy), wood, silk and nylon thread are the materials in which I worked in to represent my vision of Japan.

The « Querida Yun » Collection :​​ « Dear Yun: We have known each other since I was born but we have never met. I want to fill up the space between us by making a piece per day dedicated to you. It is time to go further, not only with the written words. I know you are very old and feel tired, but wait a little bit more, I am finally coming to visit you. Your friend that loves you. Andrea ».

The result ? at first a letter each day, with the result of 150 brooches. One per day during 6 months. (2012 Gold, silver, japanese fabrics). and then, more and more jewels. FANTASTIC jewels !

Andrea Coderch Valor – brooch – 2011 – FRONT – . Silver, wood, silk

Andrea Coderch Valor – brooch – 2011 – BACK – . Silver, wood, silk

Andrea Coderch Valor – 2011. Silver, wood (bois de violet), silk.

Andrea Coderch Valor – ring 2011- Hana collection  Silver, wood, silk.

Andrea Coderch Valor – earrings 2011- Hana collection  Silver, nylon

Andrea Coderch Valor – Yoroi  2013. Brazalete. Shibuichi, seda, algodón / 2013.Bracelet. Shibuichi, silk, cotton

Andrea Coderch Valor -  2012. Shibuichi, silk, – coll. ‘Querida Yun’

Andrea Coderch Valor – brooch – 2011 – Front – Silver, shibuichi, steel, silk.

Andrea Coderch Valor -  2011. BACK. Gold, silver, shibuichi, coral, charcoal, silk

Andrea Coderch Valor – 2011. FRONT. Gold, silver, shibuichi, coral, charcoal, silk.

Andrea Coderch Valor – necklace 2011.FRONT. Gold, shibuichi, onix, charcoal, plastic wire.

Andrea Coderch Valor -  2011. FRONT.  Gold, shibuichi, onix, charcoal, plastic wire.

Andrea Coderch Valor - 2011 – BACK . Gold, shibuichi, onix, charcoal, plastic wire.

Andrea Coderch Valor - Untitled  2013. Silver, wood, japanese fabric, silk 2013. /Plata, madera, tela japonesa, seda

Andrea Coderch Valor - Untitled -necklace-  Hana Collection 2011. Gold, shibuichi, silk

Andrea Coderch Valor – 2014 brooches (back) Track-slow-down Gold, silver, copper, wood, japanese lacquer, cotton

Andrea Coderch Valor -  2012. Shibuichi, silk, paper – coll. ‘Querida Yun’

Andrea Coderch Valor – caja de lagrimas – pendant – « Querida Yun » 2012 – shibuichi, silk

Andrea Coderch Valor – caja de lagrimas – pendant – « Querida Yun » 2012 – shibuichi, silk – DETAIL

 

 

Shibuichi (四分一^?) is an alloy which can be patinated into a range of subtle muted shades of blue or green, through the use of rokushō treatments. Its name means « one-fourth » in Japanese and indicates the standard formulation of one part silver to three parts copper, though this may be varied according to the desired effect. A 5% silver / 95% copper alloy is also marketed as « shibuichi ».^[1] A wide range of colours can be achieved using the whole range of alloy compositions, even above 50% silver. 90% Copper and 10% Silver for a dark grey and down to 70% Copper and 30% Silver for lighter greys.^[2]It is a common misconception that both copper and silver oxides form, but in fact a detailed study has shown that only copper oxides are formed on the copper rich regions of the material’s microstructure, while the silver rich regions are left largely untouched.^{[citation needed]}
For most of its history, shibuichi was mostly used to ornament various fittings for katana until the Meiji reforms, when most swordmakers began to make purely decorative objects instead. The material is often used in mokume-gane combinations. Similar alloys have been used elsewhere but the use of shibuichi to achieve different colored patinas appears to have remained nearly unknown outside Japan, until recent interest from artisans in the West. (Wikipedia)

Gioielli di carta – Paper Jewelry – Bijoux de PAPIER

Milano : Gioielli di carta - Progetti di 60 designer – EXPO Milan sept-oct 2009

Organised by Alba Cappellieri, professor of jewellery design at the “Politecnico” of Milan and by Bianca Cappello, jewellery historian, Paper Jewellery: poor jewellery is an exhibition that represents the most complete exhibition dedicated to paper jewellery: 60 designers from all over the world – from Australia to Austria, from Italy to Finland, England, Germany, Belgium, Hungary, Poland – in an unmissable journey through distant cultures under the sign of only one protagonist: paper. Folded, embroidered, plaited, sewn, sponged, pleated, punched, recycled, glued, water-painted, paper takes on unimaginable decorations and shapes: rarefied like Nobuko Murakami’s origami, elegant like Daniele Papuli and Janna Syvanoja’s pleats or the Dutch Nel Linssen’s ruffs, blooming like Sandra di Giacinto’s geometries or materic like Ritsuko Ogura’s textures, joyous like Ana Hagopian’s flowers, the collages by Feroci Design or Andrzej Szadkowski’s spectra, conceptual like the Fritz Maierhofer compositions.

Paper jewellery imposes a reflection on preciousness, no longer entrusted, as with traditional jewellery, to metals and gems but rather to the project that represents the main theme of this exhibition. The vulnerability of paper is suitably pliable to design reflections that are usually far from the world of jewellery like sustainability, ecology, territorial valorisation. Free from exchange values codified by the market paper jewellery explores languages and themes covering many disciplines: ornaments, colours, shapes, surfaces, textures, by transferring influences and aesthetics not only from fashion but also from design. And so, with this aim in mind we have included the works of 5 designers, designers that usually have to measure themselves with internal decoration and lighting, who have produced their paper jewellery especially for this exhibition. They are Deep Design, Giulio Iacchetti, Marco Ferreri, Miriam Mirri, Marco Romanelli with Marta Laudani and Paolo Ulian.

Daniele Papuli - necklace ‘Estesa’ , 2007

Triennale Design Museum presenta Gioielli di carta a cura di Alba Cappellieri e Bianca Cappello, la piu’ completa rassegna dedicata al gioiello di carta attraverso i progetti di sessanta designer provenienti da tutto il mondo .

Caren Hartley  ring    –    Fabrizio Tridenti- anello/ring 2009 -cardboard, paper, resin, pvc

Piegata, ricamata, intrecciata, cucita, spugnata, plissettata, fustellata, riciclata, incollata, acquerellata, la carta assume decori e forme insospettabili : rarefatte come gli origami di Nobuko Murakami, eleganti come i plisse’ di Janna Syvanoja e di Daniele Papuli o le gorgiere dell’olandese Nel Linssen, fiorite come le geometrie di Sandra di Giacinto o materiche come le texture di Ritsuko Ogura, gioiose come i fiori di Ana Hagopian, i collage di Feroci Design o gli spettri del polacco Andrzej Szadkowski, concettuali come le composizioni di Fritz Maierhofer.

Sarah Kate Burgess – do-it-yourself rings

Il gioiello di carta impone una riflessione sulla preziosità, non piu’ affidata, come nel gioiello tradizionale, ai metalli e alle gemme bensi’ al progetto che rappresenta il filo conduttore della mostra.

Ana  Hagopian (ES)

La vulnerabilità della carta si presta a riflessioni progettuali solitamente distanti dal mondo del gioiello come la sostenibilità, l’ecologia, la valorizzazione territoriale.
Libero dal valore di scambio codificato dal mercato il gioiello di carta esplora linguaggi e temi trasversali a molte discipline: l’ornamento, il colore, la forma, la superficie, le texture.

Riccardo Dalisi                                    -       Maria Stella Ivana Riggi

A questo scopo sono stati inclusi i lavori di sei designer, che solitamente si confrontano con l’arredo e la luce, che hanno realizzato i loro gioielli di carta appositamente per la mostra : Matteo Bazzicalupo e Raffaella Mangiarotti [deepdesign], Marco Ferreri, Miriam Mirri, Marco Romanelli con Marta Laudani, Paolo Ulian.

Angela Simone - Neckpiece: Scapigliata 2009- Black cardboard, raffia

Janna Syvanoja (FI)

Opere di : Luis Acosta, Atelier VM, Sarah Kate Burgess, Ela Cindoruk, Riccardo Dalisi, Matteo Bazzicalupo e Raffaella Mangiarotti [deepdesign], Sandra Di Giacinto, Claudia Diehl, Sabina Feroci, Marco Ferreri, Anna Fornari, Maria Rosa Franzin, Noemi Gera, Lisa Grassivaro, Joanne Grimonprez, Ana Hagopian, Andrea Halmschlager, Caren Hartley, Lydia Hirte, Meiri Ishida, Mari Ishikawa, Nathalie Jean, Hu Jun, Nel Linssen, Angelo Lomuscio, Fritz Maierhofer, Beatrix Mapalagama, Miriam Mirri, Nobuko Murakami, Devran Mursaloglu, Kazumi Nagano, Kaoru Nakano, Ritzuko Ogura, Takehide Ozaki, Daniele Papuli, Shari Pierce, Wendy Ramshaw+David Watkins, Erica Spitzer Rasmussen, Ivana Riggi, Romanelli e Laudani, Marjorie Schick, Angela Simone, Peter Skubic, Maurizio Stagni, Deganit Stern Shocken, Janna Syvanoja, Andrei Szadkowsky, Fabrizio Tridenti, Barbara Uderzo, Paolo Ulian, Marion Van Cruchten, Manon Van Kouswijk, Giorgio Vigna, Paper to Pearls, Kiwon Wang, Fiona Wright, Annamaria Zanella, Ina Zeller Bleil e gli studenti del Politecnico di Milano, Accademia di Brera, Accademia di Belle Arti di Firenze.

Nathalie Jean

Ela Cindoruk                           –     Nel Linssen  necklace, 2007       —      Lydia Hirte

Sandra Di Giacinto Necklace: Star rossa/grigia 2008 – Paper

Noémi Gera                    –  Matteo Bazzicalupo e Raffaella Mangiarotti [deepdesign]

ring from Noemi Gera‘s paperjewellery collection (to shop at this address : Redspective.com !)

Giovanna Gariboldi - Necklace: Filigrana 2009 Paper

Myungshin Ko (Accademia di Brera)- Necklace: Struttura – 2009 – Black cardboard

Kaoru Nakano

Kazumi Nagano

Kiwon Wang

Ritzuko OGURA

Manon Van Kouswijk

Luis Acosta

 

 

Triennale Design Museum – Triennale di Milano
viale Alemagna 6
Milano (Italy)
Inaugurazione 15 settembre 2009

 

BOOK/Catalogue expo :

Paper Jewellery/Gioielli di carta – Electa – 2009 -
111 pp + pochette de 6 bijoux de papier prédécoupés
pour les amoureux du bijou en papier : à  AVOIR !
(http://www.electaweb.it/)

 

voir aussi :

* ADOR (Associazione Designers Orafi )

* http://www.frizzifrizzi.it/

* paperfine : bijoux de papier