BIJOU_CONTEMPORAIN

Bienvenue sur mon blog

02/01/2016

COUP de COEUR / COUP de BLUES : Esme PARSONS

Esme PARSONS

LOVE her « urbanisation collection« , « a collection based on the urban landscape of London, with colours inspired by graffiti seen there. »  , « A COLLECTION EXPLORING THE CHAOS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF THE URBAN LANDSCAPE, A PLACE THAT CAN OFTEN BE INCREDIBLY BUSY BUT VERY LONELY. CREATED USING SILVER AND ENAMEL » (ArtsThread)

Esme Parsons - 2014 -urbanisation necklace – at University for the Creative Arts (UCA) Rochester.Esme Parsons – 2014 -urbanisation necklace

Esme Parsons graduated from University for the Creative Arts (UCA) Rochester in 2014 having completed her Ba Hons degree in Silversmithing, Goldsmithing and Jewellery, since then Esme has moved to Edinburgh to take up a post as Artist-in-Residence at Edinburgh College of Art.
Esme takes inspiration from urban spaces to create industrial miniatures of the city to be worn on the body.
Esme specialised in enamelling and is a member of the Guild of Enamelers and the British Society of Enamelers, but she also specialised in acid etch, of which all her designs are hand drawn.

« this is a range of jewellery created for my Final Major Project at UCA Rochester, the range is based on the urban landscape examining areas that usually go unnoticed or are deemed unsightly, such as barbed fencing, satellite dishes, scaffolding… with colours inspired by the vibrant colours of graffiti, posters, and road markings. i find the diversity of urban areas an endless source of inspiration, and amazing places to explore. all my work is hand made as i believe in the preservation of craft through hand made objects. »

Esme Parsons -Urbanisation earrings: Esme Parsons – Urbanisation earrings

Esme Parsons brooch from the urbanisation collection  Esme Parsons - 2014 – urbanisation brooch

Esme Parsons - 2014 - urbanisation broochEsme Parsons – 2014 – urbanisation brooch

Esme Parsons -Urbanisation  pendants: Esme Parsons - Urbanisation  pendants

Esme Parsons - Urbanisation  ring Esme Parsons – Urbanisation  ring

Esme Parsons  www.esmeparsonsjewellery.com: Esme Parsons urban brooch

Esme Parsons -   Blue Boxy Urbanisation brooch  sterling silver, steel pin, enamel  2015  -  https://www.facebook.com/esmeparsonsjewellery: Esme Parsons -   Blue Boxy Urbanisation brooch  sterling silver, steel pin, enamel  2015 

Esme Parsons -   cobalt Blue Urbanisation Brooch  sterling silver, steel pin, enamel  2015  - https://www.facebook.com/esmeparsonsjewellery: Esme Parsons -   cobalt Blue Urbanisation Brooch  sterling silver, steel pin, enamel  2015

02/01/2014

Coup de coeur : Isabelle BUSNEL whites

At JOYA 2013 Isabelle Busnel presented her new collection,  « Abracadabra in rubber » , silicone rubber jewellery :

Isabelle Busnel skull brooch (silicone rubber and magnets)
Isabelle Busnel Abracadabra Brooch. silicon rubber & magnets- new collection 2013

 Isabelle Busnel brocheIsabelle Busnel broche – silicon 2013

MAIS MAIS MAIS …… mon « coup de coeur » va à ses bijoux en émail ……

« After a 15-year career in finance and banking, an urge to express myself in a different way led me to retrain academically.
I obtained my HND in jewellery in 2008 and my Research MA in 2010, both from the London Metropolitan University (Sir John Cass Department of Art, Media and Design).
I now share my time between creating original jewellery and writing a blog about Applied Arts and Contemporary Craft.
I am a member of Dialogue Collective, a group of London-based jewellers and silversmiths, as well as a member and former treasurer of the Bristish Society of Enamelers. I am also collaborating with La Garantie, a French contemporary jewellery association. »

Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches - enamel brooch 3 - enamel, beads, silver plated copper, magnets - 8cm diam.Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches – enamel brooch 3 – enamel, beads, silver plated copper, magnets – 8cm diam.

« My jewellery consists in a series of brooches. I have therefore explored the theme of the series and the different pieces share a story that links one to another. The same theme is used again and again and distorted.
White is the colour I am researching at the moment because it is so versatile that it fits perfectly with the concept of evolution within a series. I am interested as well in the symbolism of white and it’s association with a sense of purity: some pieces are pristine white, allowing the design to come first and some of them have black edges and cracks to break the feeling of cleanness…
White is achieved thanks to enamel and powder coating, two techniques I am researching thoroughly at the moment.
‘Brooches’ don’t have a classical pin and explore different ways of interacting with the body and clothes. The main series of brooches consist of two parts : one cup sits under the fabric and a brooch is secured on top thanks to magnets. Different combinations are possible and one can choose to show or hide the cup. I am interested in the engagement between clothing and jewellery and the versatility of a piece that can be reinterpreted by the wearer. This is the starting point of the research master I am doing at the moment. . » (British Society of Enamellers)

 Isabelle Busnel - powder coated brooch - http://busnelisabelle.wix.com/jewellery-designer#!whatIsabelle Busnel – powder coated brooch

Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches - powder coated brooch 1
Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches – powder coated brooch

« Isabelle Busnel developed jewellery around ideas of concavity and unusual forms of attachment using magnets and tension.  Her work is whimsical and innocent but has the ability to be very provocative if used properly.  A playful poke at two ways jewellery can function.  She mostly works in enameled copper and steel but there were two fascinating brooches with wonderful play of inside and outside made of silver. «   (Sir John Cass School of Art Media and Design MA Degree Show 2010)

 Isabelle Busnel - FRANCE/UK  "Isabelle developed jewellery around ideas of concavity and unusual forms of attachment using magnets and tension. Isabelle Busnel -  brooch – « Isabelle developed jewellery around ideas of concavity and unusual forms of attachment using magnets and tension …. »

  Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches - enamel brooch  5Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches – enamel brooch  5

 

white brooches :
White, organic and rounded shapes are the backbone of this series: some pieces are pristine white, emphasizing their design, others display rough edges or cracks contrasting with the purity of the shape, colour and material.
The white feel is conveyed through the use of enamel and powder coating.
The brooches are not worn through a traditional pin system but explore different ways of interacting with the body and clothes, mainly through the use of magnets.

Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches - powder coated broochesIsabelle Busnel -  white brooches – powder coated brooches

Hide & seek serie :
This series has been designed as my Research MA project. It investigates the power of jewellery to arouse interest and intrigue by creating a gap between appearance and reality, thus establishing a unique relationship between the wearer, the viewer and the maker.
Pieces are versatile, play hide and seek wih clothes and need to be approriated by the wearer. They are made of silver plated metal and enamelled steel.

Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches - magnetic brooch, enamel, silver plated copper, magnets - 8cm diam.Isabelle Busnel -  white brooches – magnetic brooch, enamel, silver plated copper, magnets – 8cm diam.
Isabelle Busnel -  Hide & seek - brooch 4 on clothesIsabelle Busnel -  Hide & seek – brooch 4 on clothes

Isabelle Busnel -  Hide & seek serie - necklaceIsabelle Busnel -  Hide & seek serie – necklace

 et, last but not least …

collier five0eight. C'est une pièce collective de notre groupe faite pour le catwalk de schmuck (2013) . On a tous fait notre version d'une tâche de cafe et le collier est constitué de ces tâches de plusieurs tailles en bois.  Les artistes sont: maria Piana, Mara Irsara, Rachel Terry, Déborah Werbner, Elizabeth Peers, Simone ten Hompel , Jonas Mace et myself (Isabelle Busnel) ...collier five0eight. C’est une pièce collective de notre groupe faite pour le catwalk de schmuck (2013) . On a tous fait notre version d’une tache de café et le collier est constitué de ces taches de plusieurs tailles en bois.  Les artistes sont: Maria Piana, Mara Irsara, Rachel Terry, Deborah Werbner, Elizabeth Peers, Simone ten Hompel , Jonas Mace et myself (Isabelle Busnel) …  GENIAL !! 

SOME LAST EXHIBITIONS :
* MARCH 2013
Five0eight…on coffee break, Group Exhibition
Schmuck, Munich, germany

*MARCH – APRIL  2013
Ferrous, Dialogue Collective, Group Exhibition
Da Vinci Gallery, San Francisco, USA

13/05/2011

COUP de COEUR : Bettina DITTLMANN – coloured structures with enamelled lines

« Bettina Dittlmann (Born in Passau (DE) in 1964) is inspired by historical jewellery, ranging from mourning Victorian jewellery to American Indian pieces. Dittlmann studies the historic forms and content, which later influence her own work. Drawing is an important part of Bettina Dittlmann’s life, often a starting point for a piece of jewellery. » (« Fused » exhibition at Flow Gallery, show curated by Melissa Rigby, the Chairman of the British Society of Enamellers – 2011)

« ‘Sometimes the setting is full without a stone. Sometimes I free the ironwire from the enamel to set the stone. Sometimes I set the stone into the enameled bezel. Sometimes I fill the bezels with enamel, so the enamel becomes the ‘stone’. Garnet resists the heat in the kiln . The enamel strengthens the prongs. The enamel sticks to the garnets and covers them. It hides the cut gem.Enamel chips sparkle like cut stones. Pyrit rocks sparkle like diamonds. I try to work with the enamel, try to understand its laws and try to break them, but the enamel always wins!(Bettina Dittlmann – Published in Metalsmith, Exhibition In Print 2003, volume 23 number 4″)

COUP de COEUR  : Bettina DITTLMANN - coloured structures with enamelled lines dans Allemagne (DE) drahtringchen-eisen-granat
Bettina Dittlmann – rings with garnets

 

« Pristine precision and elegant design characterise the work of Bettina Dittlmann, a jeweller who employs enamel in much of her work. Her international reputation has taken the medium of enamelling into contemporary jewellery practice, with its emphasis on innovation in both technique and design. Bettina’s pieces, constructions of soldered binding wire and enamel, often incorporate precious and non-precious stones: the essence of her work is the combination of delicacy and strength.
Although they are completed with the appropriate findings, Bettina Dittlmann does not intend all of her brooches to be worn, but she is delighted when they are. Her large complicated binding wire structures are comprised of thousands of soldered joints. Instead of material value, Bettina is making something precious by using time.
Jewellery enamels fire successfully on to the steel wire at around 760º, and Bettina builds the joints of her constructions with IT solder, which is workable at this temperature. The firings varying according to the enamel used. Bettina judges the correct time and temperature by instinct. Because the thin wires transport heat immediately, the firings are 30–40 seconds long. She is currently experimenting with liquid enamel.
To get the enamel to adhere to the wire, Bettina finds that spit works best as an adhesive, behaving as an incredibly good glue and firing out without stains or bubbles. She mixes the spit with water and squeegee oil, paints the mixture on to the wire, and then applies the enamel by sifting. The first few firings take the enamel to a gloss finish, making a hard surface which ensures a good bond to the wire, but the last layers are underfired to achieve the granular effect. Complicated structures can require 60–70 firings: the inner wires are enamelled first and often the whole work is turned during firing. The way the pieces are constructed determines the colours, with the precious and non-precious stones pin-pointing the nodes in the design. Bettina Dittlman has always wanted to make complex pieces – shapes that take a long time time to describe, but she is also interested in the simple. Historical jewellery is a source of inspiration, ranging from mourning jewellery and Renaissance jewellery to Victorian jewellery and American Indian pieces. She studies the historic forms and content, which later influence her own work. Drawing is an important part of Bettina Dittlmann’s life. She draws what she thinks about, and often this is a starting point for a piece of jewellery. During the process of making, the drawing continues. For her abstract pieces, Bettina begins by adding circles to each other, working spontaneously with no final concept in mind. The accompanying drawings might be concerned with the construction of the developing piece or with ‘what the piece is about’, and the two influence each other back and forth as she continues assembling. She adds that if she really knew what her work was about, she probably wouldn’t make it any more. Bettina’s training included studying the techniques of silversmithing at a technical school in Germany and subsequently working two years with a jeweller. This was followed by two years at the Academy of Fine Arts in Munich, where she had to begin to develop her own path and to ‘find out how and why to go on, and what was valid’. Interestingly, she realised that she had retained the influence of her high school art teacher, with whom she studied art history and art and learned about the quality of line. There followed eighteen months at the State University of New York at New Paltz. Here drawing became particularly important to Bettina because, in the beginning, she couldn’t speak much English. It was at New Paltz that Bettina learned to enamel, taught by Jamie Bennett, who said that enamel could translate the colour in her drawings to her work. Jamie Bennett was challenging enamel and this is what inspired her. She had been making pieces with binding wire at the time, investigating spike, pod and flower forms, and this was the start of finding her unique way of working. In addition to making her wire and enamelled sculptural jewellery, Bettina produces a range of rings with her partner Michael Jank. He has his own career as a printmaker, but together they are working on forged rings called ‘Foreverrings’, each making their own pieces but selling them together. Neither soldering nor polishing are part of the process, which involves melting the metal, punching a hole, and hammering out a thick, powerful ring shape. The technique is fast and spontaneous, in fact completely opposite to Bettina’s practice in enamel. Shefeels that it is important for her body and mind to do hard physical work after the hours spent with delicate, precise and intense soldering, stone setting and enamelling .« (British Society of Enamellers – summer 2006)

http://www.rosemarie-jaeger.de/images/Bettina%20Dittlmann/verschiedenes.jpg
Bettina Dittlmann  ‘rinchen’

http://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-10-RING.jpghttp://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-07-RING.jpg

 

http://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-09-RING.jpghttp://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-02-RING.jpg

 

http://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-03-RING.jpghttp://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-01-RING.jpg

 

 

Bettina Dittlmann
Bettina Dittlmann pendants

http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2009CC/2009CC6146_jpg_ds.jpgBrooch
Bettina Dittlmann- brooch – Iron and enamel – 2007-2008 (to SHOP on V&A website)

http://www.galerie-stuehler.de/dittlmann/Dittlmann.-Brosche.-Blume-R.jpg
Bettina Dittlmann- brooch ‘Orange-Rot’, 2003 -Eisen, Emaile

http://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-27-2003-fer-GDE-AGDT.jpg

http://www.sofaexpo.com/NY/2007/img/galpgs/jwerk_right_Dittlmann.jpg
Bettina DittlmannBrooch, Iron, garnet – 2007

 

http://www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=l&tid=26763669
Bettina Dittlmann (& partner Michael Jank)  - ‘foreverring’

http://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-29-2002-RDE-ROUGE-AGDT.jpg
Bettina Dittlmann« Big red » Brooch

BettinaDittlmann dans Bettina DITTLMANN (DE)
Bettina Dittlmann - Red brooch, 2005, red ironwire enamel

http://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-30--2002-OURSIN-GD.jpg
Bettina Dittlmann -broche « oursin » (photos galerie Helène Porée)

http://www.galerie-helene-poree.com/images%20artistes%20et%20design/Dittlmann/Ditt-23-1996-COEUR-GD.jpg

OUI, Bettina Dittlmann - on AIME votre travail ! il me fascine !

 

 

ENAMEL – innovation in vitreous enamel – by Jessica Turrell- symposium-presentation

 

MODELSCULPT |
Valérie Salvo |
dochinoiu |
Unblog.fr | Créer un blog | Annuaire | Signaler un abus | Françoise Fourteau-Labarthe
| Aidez les jeunes artistes
| Tableaux de Christian Maillot