SCHMUCK 2011- ‘Under that cloud’- Galerie Spektrum, Munich (DE) – 17-22 mars 2011

UNDER THAT CLOUD 17->22/3
An exhibition of jewellery inspired by 18 artists being stranded in Mexico City under the Icelandic volcanic ash cloud, Curated by Jo Bloxham.  

 

Artist list:
Agnieszka Knap, Andrea Wagner, Benjamin Lignel, Caroline Broadhead, Cristina Filipe, Gemma Draper, Janina Stübler, Jiro Kamata, Jorge Manilla, Jürgen Eickhoff, Karin Seufert, Lucy Sarneel, Manon van Kouswijk, Nanna Melland, Nedda El-Asmar, Ramon Puig Cuyàs, Sarah O’Hana, Tore Svensson

Benjamin Lignel- piece 2011

Jürgen Eickhoff

Janina Stübler

Nanna Melland – Heart Charm (2000)
Galerie Spektrum
Theresienstr. 46
80333 München
Tel. [phone]
www.galerie-spektrum.de
Di-Fr 13-19 Uhr, Sa 11-14 Uhr, Sonderöffnung am 20.3. 13-18 Uhr

SCHMUCK 2011 – Munich (DE) 16-22 mars 2011 – PROGRAMME

Please find enclosed the program of the Schmuck 2011 during the International Trade Fair in Munich.

This special exhibition is the eldest exhibition of contemporary jewellery work in the world. It takes place since 1959 every year during the International Trade Fair in March. Except the transport cost until Munich the participation in the special show is free of charge for you. Three contributions of Schmuck 2011 will be awarded with the Herbert Hofmann Prize. The prize commemorates Dr. Her-bert Hofmann, the founder of the special show in 1959. In addition the jury of the Bavarian States Prize will look at the works in the special show. The Bavarian States Prize is awarded to 10 contri-bution of applied art within all contribution of the International Trade Fair. This prize is awarded with 5.000 €

 

>> download fair plan

The selection of the 62 exhibits to feature in the special show SCHMUCK 2011 was made by Dr Rüdiger Joppien (Head of the Department of Art Nouveau and Modernism at the Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe in Hamburg), a recognised expert in the applied arts. In total over 650 designers had submitted applications to be granted a space to exhibit within SCHMUCK 2011. Featured in the exhibition are the works of a number of designers of international renown – names like Kimiaki Kageyama (Japan), Ted Noten (Netherlands), Lisa Walker (New Zealand), Ike Jünger (Germany) and Peter Bauhuis (Germany). For the first time this year the exhibition will also include work from China, Mexico and Turkey.

 

Selected artists:
Rinaldo Alvarez (ES) – Robert Baines (AU) – Peter Bauhuis (DE) – Suzanne Beautyman (USA) – Romeu Bettencourt (PT) – David Bielander (CH) – Ewelina Bocian (PL) -  Helen Britton (AU) – Burcu Büyükünal (TR) – Jorge Castañón (Arg.) – Attai Chen (IL) – Eun Mi Chun (Korea) – Trinidad Contreras (ES) – Laura Deakin (AU) – Saskia Detering (DE) – Beate Eismann (DE) – Christiane Förster (DE) – Thomas Gentille (USA) – Sophie Hanagarth (CH) – Kirsten Haydon (NL) – Mirjam Hiller (DE) – Hsuan-Ying Ho (Taiwan) – Mari Ishikawa (JP) – Reiko Ishiyama (JP) – John Iversen (USA) – Margit Jäschke (DE) -  Karin Johansson (SE) -  Ike Jünger (DE) – Kimiaki Kageyama (JP) – Jiro Kamata (JP) -  Beppe Kessler (NL) – Beate Klockmann (DE) – Markéta Kratochvílová (CS) – Daniel Kruger (ZA) – Julia Maria Künnap (EE) – Guanlan Liang (CN) – Yi Liu (CN) – Bety Majernikova (SK) – Mia Maljojoki(FI) – Stefano Marchetti (IT) – Märta Mattsson (SE) – Lital Mendel (IL) – Eija Mustonen (FI) – Kazumi Nagano (JP) – Shunichiro Nakashima (JP) – Yu Natsume (JP) – Iris Nieuwenburg (NL) – Geraldine Nishi (CA) - Ted Noten (NL) – Barbara Paganin (IT) – Shari Pierce (USA) – Alessandra Pizzini (DE) – Henriette Schuster (DE) – Vera Siemund (DE) – Natalie Smith (GB) – Alejandra Solar (Mex.) – Mirei Takeuchi (JP) – Jennifer Trask (US) – Graziano Visintin (IT) – Lisa Walker (NL) – Jasmin Winter (DE) – Annamaria Zannella (IT) -

Ewelina Bocian – « emergency pin » – brass & silver etching, medicine – jewellery envelope for a pill

Laura Deakin – pearl series

Reiko Ishiyama necklace

Alejandra Solar Anti-War Medal

Klassiker der Moderne 2011 : Manfred Bischoff
In 2011, as in every year, there will be a retrospective of the works of one of the ‘classics of the Modern’. SCHMUCK 2011 will present the key works of Manfred Bischoff, a German goldsmith living in Italy who is regarded around the world as one of today´s leading contemporary jewellery designers. At the Internationale Handwerksmesse one of the many prizes he has received is the Bavarian State Prize (2005), an award which enjoys the very highest regard in the field of arts and crafts.

Manfred Bischoff

SCHMUCK the special show culminates in the presentation of the Herbert Hofmann Prize on 19 March 2011. In addition SCHMUCK 2011 is accompanied by a whole host of other events taking place in galleries, museums and arts institutes in Munich.

 

After the Internationale Handwerksmesse SCHMUCK goes on tour, this time, for the first time, also to France.
The French town which was given this honour is Cagnes-sur-Mer (Espace Solidor) in Provence. In recent years this small town has developed a reputation as a meeting place for statement jewellery designers. SCHMUCK first started to travel around the world in 2006, and has been seen in Australia (RMIT Gallery, Melbourne), Great Britain (Birmingham City University), Poland (National Art Gallery, Lódz), Italy (Oratorio di San Rocco, Padua) and the US (Museum of Arts and Design, New York).

 

Programme

Schmuck 2011 day by day:

16 -> 22 /3/2011
Neue Messe München I Halle A1 ›Handwerk & Design‹ 9.30-18 Uhr
Sonderschauen der 63. Internationalen Handwerksmesse München. Schmuck 2011, Exempla 2011-Werkstätten der Zukunft mit Karl Fritsch, David Huycke; Talente 2011; Meister der Moderne 2011 mit Johanna Dahm, Georg Dobler; ›Frame‹ Präsentation internationaler Galerien: Galerie Marzee, Galerie Platina, Galerie Ra.

Galerie Handwerk, Max-Joseph-Str. 4, 80333 München, www.hwk-muenchen.de/galerie, 
Galerie der Preisträger, Bayerische Staatspreise 2005-2010, 11.3.-21.4.
Vernissage am 10.3. um 18 Uhr, Di, Mi, Fr 10-18 Uhr, Do 10-20 Uhr, Sa 10-13
Uhr, So 20.3. Sonderöffnung 10-14 Uhr, Tel. [phone]

Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich,
Barerstr. 40, Pinakothek der Moderne, 80333 München.

Robert Baines ‘Courtly Love ‘

Radikal. Peter Skubic. Schmuck und Schatzjäger. Klasse Eva Eisler,
Prag 19.3.-15.5. Vernissage am 18.3. um 19 Uhr, Di-So 10-18 Uhr, Do 10-20 Uhr, Tel. [phone] und 089-23805360, www.die-neue-sammlung.de.

Peter Skubic – Brosche-1984

ALL ABOUT ME So 20.3. 11 Uhr Lecture in English Wendy Ramshaw and David Watkins (siehe So 20.3.)

Bayerischer Kunstgewerbe-Verein e.V., Pacellistraße 6-8, 80333 München
NOW-Jewels by Norman Weber, 25.2.-9.4, Vernissage am 24.2. um 18.30 Uhr,

Porträt im Laden The JAMES Days, Christine Graf, Lisa Juen, Toni Mayner, Patrick McMillan, Kathryn Partington,
25.2.-9.4. Mo-Sa 10-18 Uhr, So 20.3. Sonderöffnung 11-17 Uhr, www.kunsthandwerk-
bkv.de, Tel. [phone]

Patrick McMillan -brosche 2011 — Lisa Juen kette 2011

Freitag, 11.3.2011 / 11 Mars

19-22 Uhr Agraphobia, Shari Pierce,
324 Raum für Kunst, Gabelsbergerstr. 65,
80333 München, Tel. [phone], www.e324.de,
12.-26.3., 16.-22.3. 12-18 Uhr

Shari Pierce Necklace: 34 Sexual Offenders and 2 Sexual Predators 2010 – photo prints from transparencies, silk

Sonntag, 13.3.2011 / 13 Mars

11 Uhr SCHÖNES SAMMELN – Der Verein Neuer Schmuck e.V. präsentiert 6 private Schmucksammlungen seiner Münchner Mitglieder. MaximiliansForum, Fußgängerunterführung,
Maximilianstr./Altstadtring, 80539 München, 14 Uhr
München Schmückt sich. Film, 13.-20.3. 11-18 Uhr

Annamaria Zanella Ring

Peter Chang Brosche

Dienstag, 15.3.2011 / 15 Mars

16 Uhr Peter Bauhuis, der Goldschmied, Film ›Schmuck und Exzess‹ und Vortrag, Pravu Mazumdar, MaximiliansForum, Fußgängerunterführung, Maximilianstr./
Altstadtring, 80539 München

 

Mittwoch, 16.3.2011 / 16 Mars

Der Galliumhort von Obertraun – präsentiert von Peter Bauhuis,
Institut für Neuere Archäologie, Archäologische Staatssammlung, Lerchenfeldstraße 2,
80538 München, Tel. [phone], 16.3.-8.5. Di-So 9.30-17 Uhr, www.inearch.org

18 Uhr hautnah, Eunmi Chun, Akiko Kurihara,
Micheko Galerie, Theresienstr. 18,
80333 München, 17.-20.3. 11-19 Uhr, Tel. [phone]

Eunmi Chun      —        Akiko Kurihara

18 Uhr Birgit Hagmann,
Galerie Artefakt, Hans-Sachs-Str.13, 80469 München,
Tel. [phone], 16.3.-16.4. Mo-Fr 11-19 Uhr, Sa 11-15 Uhr

Birgit Hagmann brooches

19 Uhr Tschechischer Schmuck in Europa: Petr Dvorák (Wien), Pavel Opocensky (Prag), Martin Papcún (München), Jiri Sibor (Brünn),
Tschechisches Zentrum, Prinzregentenstr. 7,
80538 München, Tel. [phone], 16.3.- 8.4. Do-Fr 10-20 Uhr, Sa 19.3. 10-14
Uhr, ab 20.3. Mo-Do 10-17, Fr 10-16 Uhr

Pavel Opocensky brooch

Jiri Sibor brooch

Donnerstag, 17.3.2011 / 17 Mars

10 Uhr Life´s a bench II, Fiona Hermse, Tamsin Leighton-Boyce, Mykaela Lyons, Katharina Moch, Katherine Richmond, Elena Ruebel, Chuchart Sarunnayawatsin, Shadi Vossough, Nicola Turnbull,
(The exhibition ‘Life’s a Bench!‘ showcases the students graduating from the School of Jewellery’s MA programme, Birmingham City University)
Studio K162 Renate Scholz, Klugstr.
162, 80637 München, Tel. [phone], 17.-19.3. Fr-Sa 12-18 Uhr, So 12-14 Uhr

11 Uhr Finger- und Handkostüme (« costumes de doigts et de mains »), Susanne Elstner, Andrea Hiebl, Christiane Oexl, Daniela Osterrieder, Renate Schmid, Renate Scholz, Gottlinde Singer, Monika Vesely, Christine Vitzthum, Hanni Weber, Christina Weck. GÄSTE (invités): Hinrichs, Kraus,
galerieGEDOKmuc, Elisabethstr. 13 RG, 80796 München, Tel. [phone],
17.-22.3. 11-20 Uhr, 23.3.-25.3. 15-19 Uhr

« costumes de doigts et de mains »

Susanne Elstner - Ring ‘Cindy’ (aus der Serie Secrets from the Bottom of the Sea) – Silber, Rotgold und Fell

12 Uhr Look, curated by Ruudt Peters presented by Caroline van Hoek, Contemporary Art Jewelry,
Tel. [phone]. Galerie Sonja Junkers,
Amalienstraße 45, 80799 München, 17.-19.3. 10-19 Uhr
Various artists, curated by Ruudt Peters :  Tobias Alm, Sara Borgegard, Beatrice Brovia, Nicolas Cheng, Noemie Doge, Diana Dudek, Romina Fuentes, Carolina Gimeno, Adam Grinovich, Hanna Hedman, Hannah Joris, Ara Kuo, Edgar Mosa, Malaika Najem, Seth Papac, Annika Pettersson, Estela Saez, Dana Seachuga, Nelli Tanner

13 Uhr Mari Ishikawa, Mia Maljojoki, Steinau-Steinrück, Flora Vagi, im Auto van de Velde
Frauenstr. 36, Tel. [phone],
[e-mail], 17.-20.3. 13-16 Uhr

Flora Vagi wood jewelry ‘azur-seanemone’ brooch

13 Uhr Dreispaltigkeit-Einblicke, Verein experimenteller Transformationsforschung: Muriel Lang, Katharina Kataros, Emmanuel Manolo, kuratiert von Kuschmann,
Galerie IM RAUM,
Herzog-Rudolph-Str. 9, 80539 München, www.veextra.de. Do 13-18 Uhr,
Fr 11-17 Uhr, Sa 11-15 Uhr, So 12-17 Uhr

Katharina Kataros ‘bonbon’ kette

14 Uhr Henriette Schuster,
Geschäft Rothmundstraße 6 (Nähe Sendlinger Tor),
80337 München, Tel. [phone], [e-mail], 17.-20.3. Do,
Fr 14-18 Uhr, So 12-18 Uhr

Henriette Schuster – inside-outside brooch

16 Uhr Discursive Picnic – ein Austausch zwischen Passanten, Kunstinteressierten und Künstlern. Ein Ereignis, bei dem jeder Gast und Gastgeber zugleich ist.
www.un-wetter.net oder www.schmuck2.de. MaximiliansForum, Fußgängerunterführung,
Maximilianstr./Altstadtring, 80539 München

17 Uhr Normal ist der Tod, Bernhard Lehner,
Schlegelschmuck München,
Nordendstrasse 7a/Eingang Ecke Adalbertstr., 80799 München, www.schlegelschmuck.
de, Tel. [phone], Fr, Sa 11-19 Uhr, So 11-15 Uhr

Bernhard Lehner

17-19 Uhr WITTENBRINK ZEIGT SCHMUCK Tobias Alm, Kiko Gianocca, Noon Passama, David Phillips.
WITTENBRINK FUENF HOEFE, Theatinerstraße 14,
80333 München, Tel. [phone] Uhr, So 20.3. 14-17 Uhr

Tobias Alm - Summer series 2009

Kiko Gianocca

17-21 Uhr A Pieceful Swedish Smögåsbord, Nina Mårtensson, Hanna Liljenberg, Malin Lövgren, Pernilla Persson, Maria Ylander, Marta Mattson, Lisa Björke, Linda Marie Karlsson, Sanna Svedestedt, Karin Roy Andersson,
Schwedische Kirche, Schwanthalerstraße 60, 80336 München, 17.-20.3. Fr 13-21 Uhr,
Sa 12-19 Uhr, So 12-17 Uhr, Finissage 15-17 Uhr

17-21 Uhr I am sorry, there’s no title, Jorge Manilla, Peter Vermandere, Silke Fleischer, Willy van De Velde,
Schraudolphstr.16, 80799 München, 17.-20.3. 11-18

Jorge Manilla

17-22 Uhr Ulrike Kraus, Alessandra Pizzini und MunSun Schumacher,
schmuckgalerie tal20, Tal 20, 80331 München, www.galerie-tal20.de,
Tel. [phone], 17.-21.3. Di-Fr 11-19 Uhr, Sa 10-16 Uhr

17 Uhr 3stations. www.3stations.de, 18.-20.3. Fr 10-18; Sa und So 10-14 Uhr
Jewels for the Ladies. Bead necklaces designed for Anita Evenepoel and Marjan Unger, Students from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. Galerie Elsa Barenyi, Welserstr.1, 81373 München, Tel. [phone].

Sofie Boons necklace

Holy. Gisbert Stach, Rose Stach & special guests. Schmuck, Fotos, Videoarbeiten. Fotostudio Adrian Greiter, Welserstr. 11, 81373 München, Tel. [phone].
Schmuck Wander. Made by Many. A project by Bety Majernikova and Maria Nepsinska,
Clubraum, Welserstr. 29a, 81373 München, Tel. [phone]

17 Uhr NieOhneSeifeWaschen, Kathleen Hennemann, Christiane Köhne, Claudia Lassner, Christina Pauls,
Blutenburgstraße 79, 80634 München, www.nieohneseifewaschen.wordpress.com, 17.-20.3.
Fr, Sa 11-19 Uhr, So 11-17 Uhr

18-20.30 Uhr BFG-Bund für Gestaltung (Volker Atrops, Grießmayr, Michalski),
Antiquariat Dieter Zipprich, Zieblandstr. 2, 80799 München, Tel. [phone],
17.-26.3. Mo-Sa 11-18 Uhr, So 15-18 Uhr

18.30 Uhr A Theatre of Appearances – Die Bühne des Augenscheins, David Bielander, Schmuck, Michelle Taylor, Fotografie,
Galerie Biro, Zieblandstr. 19, 80799
München, www.galerie-biro.de, Tel. [phone], 17.3.-16.4. Di-Sa 14-18 Uhr

18.30 Uhr SOME KIND OF HEAVEN – WILL RAMBO BE THERE? Nicole Beck, Melanie Isverding, Despo Sophocleous,
Projektraum J. Baumeister, Georgenstr. 66,
80799 München, 18.-20.3. Fr 12-18 Uhr, Sa 12-16 Uhr, So 12-18 Uhr

Despo Sophocleous

19-21 Uhr RUUDT PETERS – ANIMA 17/3 -> 23/4.
und im Fenster UNDER THAT CLOUD 17->22/3.
(An exhibition of jewellery inspired by 18 artists being stranded in Mexico City under the Icelandic volcanic ash cloud – Artist list: Agnieszka Knap, Andrea Wagner, Benjamin Lignel, Caroline Broadhead, Cristina Filipe, Gemma Draper, Janina Stübler, Jiro Kamata, Jorge Manilla, Jürgen Eickhoff, Karin Seufert, Lucy Sarneel, Manon van Kouswijk, Nanna Melland, Nedda El-Asmar, Ramon Puig Cuyàs, Sarah O’Hana, Tore Svensson.)
Galerie Spektrum, Theresienstr. 46, 80333 München,
Tel. [phone], www.galerie-spektrum.de, Di-Fr 13-19 Uhr, Sa 11-14 Uhr,
Sonderöffnung am 20.3. 13-18 Uhr

Benjamin Lignel- piece 2011

19 Uhr GARDENS, Helena Lehtinen,
84 GHz Kultur im Keller, Georgenstraße 84,
80799 München, Tel. [phone]. www.84ghz.de, 17.-20.3. Fr-So 12-20 Uhr

20-22 Uhr Martin Papcun, Sungho Cho,
Akademie Galerie, U-Bahn Universität, Ludwig-Maximilian-
Universität, Akademiestraße, 80539 München, 17.-25.3. 15-20 Uhr

Sungho Cho

Freitag, 18.3.2011 / 18 Mars

10.30 Uhr Helen Britton, ›Jewellery Life‹ Catalogue launch, introduction by Helen Drutt-English,
Galerie Handwerk, Max-Joseph-Str. 4, 80333 München,
Tel. [phone]

12 Uhr was zählt – what counts, Leila Arzaghi, Christiana Jöckel, Anna Lang, Geri Nishi,
Studio Gabi Green, Gollierstr. 17, 80339 München, Tel. [phone].3. Fr 12-18 Uhr,
Sa-Mo 10-18 Uhr

Christiana Jöckel 

12 Uhr Curgäste und Fremde, Erol Gurian, Fotografie, Florian Buddeberg, Anna Eichlinger,
Schmuck, Bergmannstr. 28, 80339 München, Tel. [phone],
18.-20.3. Fr 14-18 Uhr, Sa, So 10-18 Uhr

Anna Eichlinger              —               Florian Buddeberg

15-20 Uhr die kunst.wirt.schaft Graz auf ›schmucktour‹,
Route Maxvorstadt, Tel. [phone] oder 0043-69912120590, www.kunstwirtschaft.at

16 Uhr Claudia Milic, Claudia Stebler, Silke Spitzer,
Almstadt Schmuck, Reichenbachstrasse 25,
80469 München, Tel. [phone] Uhr

16-18 Uhr meet the artists The JAMES Days, Graf, Juen, Mayner, McMillan, Partington,
Bayerischer Kunstgewerbe-Verein e.V., Pacellistraße 6-8,
80333 München, Tel. [phone]

16 Uhr Aperitivo FIVE OF A KIND, Positionen anwendbarer Kunst („five of a kind, Positions in Usable Art“). Margit Hart, Stefan Heuser, Fritz Maierhofer, Kathryn Partington, Wolfgang Rahs,
Manuela Schlossinger mit Maurer Zilioli-Contemporary Arts, Brescia, Galerie Jordanow, Fürstenstraße 11, 80333 München,
www.maurerzilioli.com, www.galerie-jordanow.de, Tel. [phone] Uhr

17.30 Uhr Aperitivo LADIES BOXES, Elisabeth Altenburg, Helen Britton, Christiane Förster, Joanne Grimonprez, Therese Hilbert, Despo Sophocleous,
Maurer Zilioli-Contemporary Arts, Brescia, Kunstbüro reillplast,
www.reillplast.de, Amalienstr. 21, 80333 München, Tel. [phone] Uhr

Joanne Grimonprez

17-19 Uhr Rebellen der LIEBE / Rebels of LOVE, Alexander Blank, Stefan Heuser, Christian Hoedl, Jiro Kamata,
Kunstarkaden, Sparkassenstrasse 3, 80331 München,
www.muenchen.de/kunstarkaden, www.rebellenderliebe.de, 22.2.-26.3.
Di-Sa 13-19 Uhr, So 20.3. 13-17 Uhr

18-21 Uhr Dialogue X: Petra Bishai, Amy Death, Elsa Hedberg, Buddug Humphreys, Therese Morch-Jorgensen, Julia Patterson, Margot Sevadijan, Paolo Scura, Rachel Terry,
Timothy Information Limited. Kunstgießerei München, Schleißheimer Str. 72, 80797 München, with 84 GHz, 18.-20.3.
Fr 18-21 Uhr, Sa, So 12-20 Uhr, Sa 11 Uhr brunch view, Tel. [phone]

 

18 Uhr Nuove Direzioni del Gioiello Italiano Contemporaneo, 11 Goldschmiede aus Italien,
Galerie Isabella Hund, Frauenplatz 13, Eingang Schäfflerstraße,
80331 München, www.isabella-hund.de, 19.3.-16.4. Mo-Fr 11-14 ,15-19 Uhr,
Sa. 11-16/18 Uhr
(Artists: Adrean Bloomard, Patrizia Bonati, Lucia Davanzo, Elisabetta Dupre, Maria Rosa Franzin, Rita Marcangelo, Maurizio Stagni, Fabrizio Tridenti)

Elisabetta Dupré – ‘aracne’ – ciondolo

18.30 Uhr TIERPARADE oder Schmuck ohne Mensch, Ecole supérieure des Arts Décoratifs de Strasbourg. commissariat Sophie Hanagarth et Florence Lehmann,
Französisches Kulturinstitut, www.institut-francais.fr, Kaulbachstraße 13,
80539 München, Tel. [phone] Uhr

cf article :  EXPO ‘TIERPARADE’ – Institut Français de Munich (DE) – 17-20 mars 2011

19 Uhr Förderpreis der Landeshauptstadt München 2011,
lothringer13_halle, Lothringerstrasse 13, 81667 München, www.lothringer13.de, 19.3.-17.4. Di-So
14-20 Uhr, Tel. [phone]

20 Uhr Do You Want A….? An act of Piracy. Guerilla Jewellery from students of the Academy Fine Arts Maastricht,
www.abkmaastricht.nl

 

Samstag, 19.3.2011 / 19 Mars

11 Uhr Returning to the Jewel is a Return from Exile Nr. 4, Robert Baines, Karl Fritsch, Gert Rothmann,
Münchner Residenz, Einsäulensaal, Residenzstr. 1, 80333 München,
19.-20.3. 11-18 Uhr

Robert Baines (image courtesy of, and with thanks to, the gallery, tarraWarra Museum of Art, AU)

 

>> Neue Messe München Halle A1, Aktionsbühne
16 Uhr Talente-Preis Verleihung
17 Uhr Herbert-Hofmann-Preis Verleihung
18 Uhr ›Ausgezeichnet!‹ Vortrag, Dr. Weber-Stöber
19 Uhr Achtung Adressenwechsel! Goldschmiedetreffen Festsaal, Augustinerkeller, Arnulfstr. 52, www.augustinerkeller.de
20 Uhr edible, Annamaria Leiste & Sarah Lierl, mit den Kitchen Guerillas,
Anmeldung erforderlich unter [e-mail], Tragbar, Zenettistr. 33,
80337 München, Tel. [phone] Uhr

 

Sonntag, 20.3.2011 / 20 Mars

10-14 Uhr Galerie der Preisträger, Sonderöffnung,
Galerie Handwerk, Max- Joseph-Str. 4, 80333 München, Tel. [phone]

11 Uhr ALL ABOUT ME Lecture in English Wendy Ramshaw and David Watkins,
Ernst von Siemens-Auditorium, Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design
Museum Munich, Barerstrasse 40, Pinakothek der Moderne, 80333 München,
Tel. [phone] u. 089-23805360, www.die-neue-sammlung.de

« In the mid 1960s Wendy Ramshaw and David Watkins ran a small firm called Optik Art Jewellery. They designed acrylic fashion jewellery inspired by Pop art paintings of the period. Later in 1967 they designed and sold paper jewellery all over the world. This was prior to a new revolution in jewelry design which was looming, throughout the 70s with non-precious materials and artistic ideas replacing material values. Ramshaw and Watkins were among the protagonists of the London scene. Ramshaw started out as an illustrator and textile designer. She has received numerous prestigious awards for her works, which include the Millennium Medal for Queen Elizabeth II. Her husband David Watkins was a jazz pianist, now a sculptor, and jewelry artist. Through his unconventional techniques and methods of working with materials he creates a unique style all of his own; from 1984 until 2006 he was Professor of Metalwork and Jewelry at the Royal College of Art in London. »
SUN 20.03., 11.00, Pinakothek der Moderne, Ernst von Siemens Auditorium, Admission free Lecture in English  »

15 Uhr NOW-Jewels by Norman Weber, Führung Norman Weber,
Bayerischer Kunstgewerbe-Verein e.V., Pacellistraße 6-8, 80333 München, Tel. [phone]

Norman Weber

 

16 Uhr Baby Bling Bling, Finissage mit Schmuck-Performance,
Maximilians- Forum, Fußgängerunterführung, Maximilianstr./Altstadtring, 80539 München
« Eine Revue über Rein-Gold und kuriose Gehänge, dicke Klunker und zarte Geschmeide. Schmuckstückstories in 6 Akten. Schauspiel von Die Vorleserinnen Katja Brenner, Sophie Engert, Vanessa Jeker.
Die Vorleserinnen verwandeln die individuellen Persönlichkeiten von Schmuckstücken von SchmuckkünstlerInnen, die eng mit München verbunden sind ,in verschiedene dramatische Formen: Gangsta-Rap, Soap, Ballade oder Stummfilm – der Schmuck spielt die Hauptrolle. »

und außerhalb der Stadt: Schmuckstücke von Doerthe Fuchs,
Galerie Anna Pirk, Seestrasse 24, 83700 Rottach-Egern am Tegernsee, Tel. [phone].
www.anna-pirk.de, 15.3.-26.3. Di-Sa 11-19 Uhr oder nach Vereinbarung, Eröffnung Samstag, 12.3. ab 17 Uhr

Doerthe Fuchs

 

 

Apart from SCHMUCK, other special displays of arts and craft are hosted at «Handwerk & Design»: TALENTE, a show of the work of promising young designers; EXEMPLA, subtitled this year ‘Workshops of the Future’; and MEISTER DER MODERNE, featuring a selection of the work of famous international masters of arts and crafts and applied arts. Visitors who want to find out more about contemporary craft and design have the opportunity of taking part in a guided tour of «Handwerk & Design». These tours, which are free of charge, start each day at 13:30 (meeting point: stage in Hall A1, no registration needed).

 

Georg Dobler at Meister der Moderne

 

 

 

Schmuck 2011
Willy Brandt Allee 1
Messegelände
81829 München, Germany
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
website: www.hwk-muenchen.de
mail: [e-mail]
Organized by the Verein zur Förderung des Handwerks e.V.
16.Mar.2011 – 22.Mar.2011
from 9.30 until 18.00
with a special VIP opening on Thursday 17th from 6 until 10. On Saturday 19th March we will have the ceremony of the Herbert-Hofmann-award at 4 p.m.

EXPO ‘also known as jewellery’ – Ateliers de Paris, Paris (FR) – 13 janv.-12 mars 2011

Enfin ! cette exposition arrive en France, après son périple autour du monde …

DU 13 JANVIER AU 12 MARS
Also Known As Jewellery  aux Ateliers de Paris

Les Ateliers de Paris vous invitent à découvrir à partir du 13 janvier l’exposition «Also Known As Jewellery», exposition conçue et réalisée par Christian Alandete et Benjamin Lignel pour « la Garantie », association pour le bijou.

scénographie originale par Christian Alandete et Benjamin Lignel

Avec les créations de :
Claire Baloge, Babette Boucher, Brune Boyer-Pellerej, Frédéric Braham, Monika Brugger, Carole Deltenre, Joanne Grimonprez, Sophie Hanagarth, Ulrike Kämpfert, Emmanuel Lacoste, Catherine Le Gal, Florence Lehmann, Christophe Marguier, Amandine Meunier, Jana Natier, Nathalie Perret, Maud Traon.

Claire Baloge

Amandine Meunier

Christophe Marguier

Nathalie Perret, Paliceder, 2007. Collier en plâtre et gaze.

 

 

 

Ateliers de Paris
30 rue du Fg Saint-Antoine
75012 PARIS
Tél : [phone]
Fax : [phone]
[e-mail]

JOYA Barcelona 2010 – EXPO ‘King Kong Jewels’ – Klimt02 Gallery, Barcelona (Spain) – 16-17-18 Sept 2010

King Kong Jewels ……… bijoux pour HOMME
(Ils ne manquent pas d’humour ! )Klimt02 Gallery presenta para JOYA 2010 una selección de piezas escogidas especialmente para el hombre.

Benjamin Lignel - ‘Thinking of You (Felix) » – Brooch

Tore Svensson - neckpiece – steel, silver plated

Fritz Maierhofer (Austria, 1941), Benjamin Lignel (Francia, 1972), Alexander Heuser (Alemania, 1978), Tore Svensson (Suecia, 1948), Ted Noten (Holanda, 1956), Marc Monzó (España, 1978), Jiro Kamata (Japón, 1978), Pavel Herynek (República Checa, 1960), Claude Schmitz (Luxemburgo, 1972) y Alexander Blank (Alemania, 1975) son todos ellos artistas cuyas obras aportan inteligencia, delicadeza, fuerza y sofisticación a la joyería masculina.

¿Acaso King Kong no hubiese llevado un collar con las iniciales A.D.?

De la colección the Beauty and the Best, klimt02 2010.

Fritz Maierhofer – ring – silver, acrylic

 

Pavel Herynek - brooch , necklace & ring

 Alexander Blank - pendant ‘Tank’- Bed linen, silver, plastic

Marc Monzó – ‘big solitaire’ brooch

Ted Noten – ring ‘Avondvlinder’ Titanium black

 

 

KLIMT02 Gallery
The Art Jewellery Space in Barcelona
Corsega 317
Barcelona (Spain)
M° Diagonal
[phone]
www.klimt02.net/gallery
[e-mail]

« Leo Caballero and Amador Bertomeu, both from Barcelona, met in the late 90s while sharing a studio-workshop. In 2003 they began the on-line website, Klimt02 which has become the go-to website for all matters that involve art jewelry worldwide. Last year (2008) they opened a gallery space in Barcelona. At this year’s SNAG conference in Philadelphia, Leo gave an informative lecture about the web and its relation to art jewelry. He also attended an informal lunch and discussion with AJF members who were on the Philadelphia trip hosted by Velvet da Vinci owners Elizabeth Shypertt and Mike Holmes.«  (AJF Interview 2009)

 

EXPO ‘Think Twice: New Latin American Jewellery’ – Museum of Arts and Design of New York (USA) – 13 Oct 2010-8 Janv. 2011

Museum of Arts and Design of new York (MAD) – (New York City) -  13-Oct-2010 – 08-Jan-2011 
Think Twice: New Latin American Jewelry Showcases Contemporary Jewelry From The Region For The First Time In a U.S. Museum

« Think Twice: New Latin American Jewelry, presented by the Museum of Arts and Design from October 12, 2010 through January 8, 2011, will feature unique work by nearly 60 jewelry makers, representing over 20 Latin American countries. Among the artists included are the Brazilians Mirla Fernandes, Dionea Rocha Watt, and Claudia Cucchi; Valentina Rosenthal and Walka Studio from Chile; the Argentinians Elisa Gulminelli, Francisca Kweitel, and Silvina Romero; Jorge Manilla, Martacarmela Sotelo and Eduardo Graue from Mexico; and Miguel Luciano from Puerto Rico. 
The show has been guest-curated by the Netherlands-based, Mexican-born architect and historian Valeria Vallarta Siemelink. 
Objects of adornment have played a significant cultural role throughout Latin America’s history, from the spiritually potent jewelry of the pre-Columbians to the eye-catching ornaments worn by Mexican drug gangs to advertise their status and menace. Now a new generation of jewelry makers working outside the field’s conventions are examining how this complex relationship with physical adornment evolved–and why. 
Think Twice aims to bring the audience a clear picture of the landscape of contemporary jewellery in Latin America and its development in the last 10 years, showing the way in which visual artists and jewellery makers born or living in Latin America view and relate, through jewellery, to such a vast and diverse continent. 
The exhibition, conceived by Otro Diseño, is born out of a passion for jewellery as a medium of personal and cultural expression and of the conviction that the fresh, intense and highly creative work of Latin American jewellery makers outstandingly represents and nurtures the culture they live in and therefore greatly enriches and diversifies the international landscape of contemporary jewellery.
“The new Latin American jewelry must be appreciated for what it is. One shouldn’t impose stereotypes or resort to clichés,” says guest-curator Valeria Vallarta Siemelink. “Far from being an imported concept from the West, jewelry-as-art in Latin America is very much a product of the region’s history and its diverse and dynamic modern societies.” 
“This is a very special show,” adds Ursula Neuman, MAD’s jewelry curator. “This jewelry is virtually unknown in the United States. The artists’ realize their sophisticated concepts through intriguing choices of materials and techniques, creating unique works that present a fascinating amalgam of indigenous cultural elements and the latest trends in international contemporary jewelry design.

” To bring clarity to Latin America’s complex culture and history, the exhibition is organized around three themes, addressing the region’s past, its unique fusion of ethnic influences, and its ever-changing socio-political realities. 

History, Memory, Tradition
The tension between tradition and modernity is crucial to Latin American history. Heritage and memory, both personal and collective, are among the subjects expressed by these artists through pre-Columbian and colonial jewelry methods and traditional craft techniques. Take the Colombian Mariana Shuk. She has made a series of rings using traditional ring shanks ordered from mega-jewelry suppliers. She creates a ring by interlacing two identical shanks. Its shape determines which techniques—stone setting, enameling, filigree—she will employ to customize it in the Colombian colonial style. The process has produced a perplexing assortment of rings that confronts past and present, value and insignificance. By contrast, another Columbian artist, Linda Sanchez, creates her jewelry pieces by employing weaving techniques that have been used by an Amazonian tribe since ancient times. 
A Flair for Invention
The artists in this section are some of the boldest jewelry makers anywhere. Skilled at improvisation, they make brilliant use of a rich variety of native materials along with such everyday objects as balloons and drawer handles. A spontaneous attitude and a contrary vision are central to their daring approach. The Mexican Andres Quiñones can make an exquisite choker from sticks of bamboo, a few broken guitar strings, a handful of freshwater pearls and silver wire, all of the materials collected from garbage dumpsters in Mexico City. Colombian Helena Biermann presents Hit the Road, a series of brooches that collect the insects stuck to a car in its 286 km trip from Munchen, Germany to Domaslav, Czech Republic. 
Forging Identity: Latin America as a Source of Inspiration 
These jewelry makers are creating an individualistic language, expressive of who they are and where they come from. Art, religion, money, violence, tradition, family, gender are among the themes that define their lives, uniting their collective and individual identities. Foreign-born artists, who are somehow bound up with Latin America or have had a profound impact upon it, are included in this section. Alcides Fortes, for example, was born in Cape Verde, trained as a gold and silversmith in the Netherlands, and today lives and works in Mexico. He specializes in politically charged jewelry, creating such works as a necklace made out of the porcelain portraits recovered from the graves of a family killed in the Mexican revolution. The piece reveals both an admiration for Mexico’s culture and history as well as a loathing of its corruption, economic disparities, and veiled racism. By transforming the common objects of his native land into fetishized commodities, Miguel Luciano examines how American consumerism has affected Puerto Rican culture. Plantainum, for example, is a series of necklaces and pendants featuring a platinum-covered plantain. The shell is seductive and pristine, but underneath the fruit is rotting. 
Figurative and abstract, conceptual and symbolic, traditional and experimental, contemporary Latin American jewelry is tremendously varied, and it is this diversity that enables it to communicate its ethnicity and to transcend it. » (Klimt02)
Artist list:
Mirla Fernandes (Brasil),Kehisha Castello, Helena Biermann (Col.), Tota Reciclados (Arg.), Udi Lagallina (Bresil), Martacarmela Sotelo (Mex.), Kika Alvarenga (Brasil), Silvina Romero (Arg.), Elisa Gulminelli (Arg.), Zinna Rudman, Célio Braga, Martha Camargo, Maria Paula Amezcua, Magali Anidjar (Arg.), Walka Studio (Chile), Mauricio Lara, Gabriela Horvat (Arg.), Jorge Castañón, Nilton Cunha, Jimena Rios, Thelma Aviani, Alcides Fortes (Cape verde), Samantha Fung, Alex Bourttiea, Marie Pendaries, Renata Porto, Martha Hryc, Teresa Margolles, Paula Isola, Beate Eismann, Aurelie Dellasanta (CH), Giselle Morales, Fiorenza Coredro, Francisca Kweitel (Arg.), Alina López, Ana Paula Campos, Dionea Rocha Watt (Brasil), Eduardo Graue (Mex.), Mariana Shuk (Col.), Stella Bierrenbach, Hugo Celi, Luis Acosta, Isel Mendoza, Dani Soter, Linda Sánchez (Col.), Andrés Fonseca, Ana Videla, Alex Burke, Benjamin Lignel, Alejandra Agusti, Lucia Abdenur, Claudia Cucchi (Brasil), Chequita Nahar, Ariel Kuipfer, Ximena Briceno, Julieta Odio, Guigui Kohon (Esp.), Nuria Carulla, Santiago Ayala, Carlos Martiel, Jorge Manilla(Mex.).

Silvina Romero (Argentina)

Mirla Fernandes (Brasil) – necklace

Celio Braga, Brazil

Aurelie Dellasanta – ‘suicide brooch’ 2007 painted metal, gilded metal, paper

 Francisca Kweitel (Arg.)

Guigui Kohon -’Basura de joyería’ – Jewelry waste 2010

Chequita Nahar Lontai – brooch, 2010, oak, porcelain, string

 

 

 

 

 

Kika Alvarenga (Bresil)

 Jorge Manilla – ‘Palabras’

Jorge Manilla – necklace ‘de votos y ex-votos’

Dionea Rocha Watt (Brazil) – ‘Vanitas’ – image made with silver dust

Claudia Cucchi (Brazil) – Brooch-  Untitled 2005 – Silk, perspex, nylon, emerald

Elisa Gulminelli (Argentina) 

Udi Lagallina (Brasil) – brooch

Gabriela Horvat, Sin titulo necklace 2009

Jorge Castañon, Dos cuencos brooch – nickel silver and wood

Martacarmela Sotelo (Mex.) – collares linea ropa- proceso lineas ropa mezclilla roja

Marta Hryc-  Aplastada – Plata, algodon. 2009

TotaReciclados (Arg) (Marcela Muñiz + Valeria Hasse)

 

Museum of Arts and Design of New York (MAD)
2 Columbus Circle (59th Street and Broadway)
NY 10019 – New York City
United States
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
website: www.madmuseum.org
mail: [e-mail]

Joyeros Argentinos

 

bijoux engagés …. le bijou comme moyen d’expression … politique

« Considérer le bijou comme un moyen d’expression au même titre que la photographie, la vidéo…
Des bijoux porteurs de messages, des bijoux politiques, des bijoux qui interrogent, des bijoux engagés…
Je m’amuse à détourner les objets, à associer des matériaux tels que l’os, le béton, ou encore le chocolat, avec les métaux propres à la bijouterie (or, argent…).
J’utilise ces moyens pour dénoncer un fait, pointant du doigt les failles de notre société où l’individu et le collectif s’affrontent sans cesse…
Un regard ironique sur les comportements humains. » (Chloé Durand)

Chloé Durand – broche « in god’s name »

voui voui voui ….. le problème, c’est que le « porteur » a peut-être un sens de l’humour, que le « faiseur »a un certain sens de l’humour -ou un sens de l’humour certain-, mais quid du spectateur ? je peux vous dire que ces bijoux-là, je ne les porterais pas dans certains quartiers ….. à moins d’avoir VRAIMENT envie de me faire lyncher ….. ça doit être ça, l’engagement politique ……

Benjamin Lignel, broche ‘Manifest (thank God)’, 2008

Pigeon vole ! from Benjamin Lignel

ARGL !!

Ai reçu un pigeon !!!

Benjamin Lignel - piece: ‘Io ce l’ho d’oro’ (yeah…but mine’s gold) 2007 Fine gold beak extension for pigeon ( photo: Enrico Bartolucci)

Benjamin Lignel - piece: ‘Io ce l’ho d’oro’ 

EXPO ‘LINGAM’ – Galerie du WCC-BF, Mons (Belgique) – 8 mai-22 aout 2010

« L’exposition LINGAM met en scène 121 interprétations d’un symbole ancestral de fertilité : le lingam.
Représentation symbolique du phallus et du dieu Shiva, le Lingam représente la force créatrice à la base de l’existence de tout l’univers. Dans les religions hindoue et bouddhique, c’est par le biais du lingam que l’on honore quotidiennement le dieu Shiva, la représentation phallique n’y est nullement mise en relation avec le sexe.
Dans la culture occidentale, le phallus évoque la sexualité et le plaisir. Alors qu’il fut un temps où le Christianisme et la culture judéo chrétienne mettaient également en avant la sexualité comme acte créateur positif. Depuis la séparation du corps et de l’esprit, cet aspect en a été banni et d’une référence sacrée, la sexualité est devenue un mal nécessaire.
Avec l’exposition LINGAM, son commissaire, le plasticien Ruudt Peters (NL), désire rétablir cette signification initiale ainsi que sa dimension spirituelle.

Udi Lagallina - Lingam et son yoni. Wood, gold, pearls, textile.

Partant de sa fascination pour le lingam dont il a découvert l’existence il y a dix ans lors de voyages en Asie du Sud-est, il a eut envie de proposer à des artistes et designers contemporains de créer un objet symbolisant la fertilité, chaque créateur interprétant le sujet en se basant sur sa propre sensibilité et sa perception personnelle du thème.
121 créations ont ainsi vu le jour et sont présentées dans une scénographie où la signification originelle du lingam est soulignée par la présentation des objets contemporains en compagnie de leurs modèles originaux. »

Ruudt Peters – lingam

Ruudt Peters – modern lingam

 

Après deux étapes particulièrement remarquées à Stockholm et Utrecht, l’exposition Lingam sera présente cet été aux anciens abattoirs de Mons où la Galerie du WCC-BF accueillera les œuvres des 121 créateurs, issus de 24 pays à travers le monde, qui se sont prêtés au jeu de la réinterprétation de ce symbole fort, à la fois si spécifique et universel.

 Sam Tho-Duong – Malebow. Gold strap. (photos by Rob Versluys)

Alexander Blank – Rabbit  …..

Complete list of all the participating artists:
Alexander Blank — Andi Gut — Agnes Larsson — Aurel Schiller — Anders Lagombra — Adam Grinovich — Bussi Buhs — Brune Boyer — Benjamin Lignel — Célio Braga — Carla Castiajo — Christiane Förster — Constanze Schreiber — Carla Nuis — Carolein Smit — Christoph Zellweger –  David Bielander — Detlef Thomas — Dagmar Heeser — Daniel Kruger — David Huycke — David Taylor — Daniela Hedman — Erik Kuiper/Joana Meroz — Evert Nijland – Estela Sàez Vilanova — Elisa Deval — Esther Knobel — Eija Mustonen — Esther Jiskoot — Frederic Braham — Florence Lehmann — Fabrice Schaefer — Fredrik Ingemansson — Gie Luyten — Gunilla Bandolin — Gesine Hackenberg — Graziano Visintin — Hilde de Decker — Henriette Schuster — Helfried Kodré — Helena Lehtinen — Hedda Bjerkeli – Helen Britton — Hanna Hedman – Iris Bodemer — Ineke Heerkens — Iris Eichenberg — Ivar Björkman — Julia Walter — Joop Haring — Johanna Schweizer — Javier Moreno Frias – Jorge Manilla — Johanna Dahm — Julia Turner — Kadri Mälk — Karin Johansson — Karl Fritsch — Katja Prins — Kim Buck — Karen Pontoppidan — Luzia Vogt — Lucy Sarneel — Lisa Walker — Manfred Bischoff — Miro Sazdic — Manfred Nisslmüller — Manuel Vilhena — Monika Brugger – Marc Monzo — Machteld van Joolingen — Marian Bijlenga — Manon van Kouswijk — Marianne Schliwinski — Marcel Wanders — Mascha Moje — Michael Petry — Matt Stone — Nedda El-Asmar — Nanna Melland — Norman Weber — Nelli Tanner — Oliver Füting — Piret Hirv — Paul McClure — Petra Zimmerman — Peter Skubic — Pedro Sequeira — Peter Vermandere – Peter Hoogeboom — Paul Derrez – Pavel Opocensky — Pornpilai & Jiradej- Meemalai — Rudee Tancharoen — Ramon Puig Cuyas — Ruudt Peters — Ruud-Jan Kokke — Sigurd Bronger — Sergey Jivetin — Sofia Björkman — Sara Borgegård — Sophie Hanagarth — Studio Makkink&Bey — Suska Mackert — Sam Tho Duong — Sissi Westerberg — Tanel Veenre – Thomas Gentille — Tobias Birgersson — Tarja Tuupanen — Terhi Tolvanen — Teja van Hoften — Ted Noten — Ulo Florack — Udi Lagallina — Volker Atrops — Wolfgang Lieglein — Warwick Freeman — Yuka Oyama — Zeger Reyer — Gijs Bakker

Constanze Schreiber - Pendant Bolislav - Fur, 18ct gold, lead - made for the exhibition Lingam

Du 8 mai au 22 août 2010.

Exposition accessible du mardi au dimanche, de 12h00 à 18h00.
Fermé les lundis et jours fériés ainsi que les 29 et 30 mai 2010.

WCC-BF  (World Craft Council- Belgique Francophone)

Anciens abattoirs de Mons – Galerie du WCC-BF
Site des Anciens Abattoirs
17 – 02, Rue de la Trouille
B-7000 Mons (Belgique)
Tél. : [phone]
Fax : [phone]

EXPO ‘Italian Jewellery’ – The Scottish gallery, Edinburgh (UK) – 2-30 juin 2010

 

Following the success of Contemporary Jewellery from Italy, a touring exhibition curated by Rita Marcangelo, The Scottish Gallery is delighted to present a showcase of some of the finest jewellers from this exhibition.

Adrean Bloomard, Patrizia Bonati, Elisabetta Dupre, Maria Rosa Franzin, Benjamin Lignel, GianCarlo Montebello, Giovanni Sicuro, Fabrizio Tridenti, Graziano Visintin

Fabrizio Tridenti – ring
Giovanni Sicuro - Brooch, 2009 – silver, hollow construction enamelling

 

Adrean Bloomard – Amphora – 2009, pendant, gold, copper, enamel
Elisabetta Dupre – Pendant - oxidised silver, gold

 

GianCarlo Montebello – Rings ‘Softness’, 2009 -stainless steel mesh, precious metal cut gems
Patrizia Bonati - Ring – gold, enamel

 

The Scottish Gallery
16 Dundas Street,
Edinburgh, EH3 6HZ  (UK)
Telephone [phone]
Fax [phone]
E-mail [e-mail]

‘Repeat after me’ – Benjamin Lignel (FR) – « if an object is good once, it will be good 20 times over »

« “When Picasso died I read in a magazine that he had made four thousand masterpieces in his lifetime and I thought, “Gee, I could do that in a day.” […] You see, the way I do them, with my technique, I really thought I could do four thousand in a day. And they’d all be masterpieces because they’d all be the same painting.” - Andy Warhol (1)

Although contemporary studio jewelry persistently uses fine arts as a model in its quest for legitimacy, and has emulated its modes of distribution through galleries ever since it emerged in the 1960s as an independent genre, it continues to entertain an uneasy relationship to serial reproduction. While artists like Joseph Beuys and Andy Warhol were happily blowing up the conventional dogma that set apart unique pieces from repeat production, contemporary jewelry artists only gingerly engaged in editions. Jewelers maintain that serial work and mechanical reproduction are antithetical to craft heritage, and that forgoing traditional techniques and uniqueness in favor of more disposable, machine-made products threatens the profession’s raison d’être, the specificity of its “voice.” For the most part, galleries agree, on the principle that if all else fails, (2) making handcrafted one-offs will guarantee an artist recognition from a buying public that is ever ready to equate “original” with “artistic.” My naïve assumption that, if an object is good once, it will be good 20 times over, is what fuels this essay. My more seasoned conviction, that contemporary jewelry needs the visibility that editions would provide, also plays a part.
I.
“The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction,” a seminal essay written by philosopher Walter Benjamin in 1936, addresses the emergence of film and photography as mass media in the 1920s, and charts in a few luminous paragraphs the challenge that these new media pose to the practice and reception of art in general. The reproduced work of art, he argued, devalues the unique presence of the original and “detaches the reproduced object from the domain of tradition.” (3) Whatever social relevance the original object may have had—“its unique existence at the place where it happens to be”—is “liquidated” by reproductions: as soon as one privileges accessibility and diffusion over the authority of the unique, and copies become independent from the cultural heritage that gave their model currency in the first place.
Of handcrafted objects, it is similarly said that uniqueness fosters contemplation, underlines the object’s singularity (both as a creative product, and as emotional/ritual agent), and validates the romantic notion that a “true” work of art must be made by the artist. In modern society, craft objects are credited with making a valiant last stand against mediocrity in a culture awash with self-similar factory gizmos. 
II.
Cautionary though he is, Benjamin is keen to acknowledge that, “…in permitting the reproduction to meet the beholder or listener in his own particular situation, it reactivates the object reproduced.”(4) The twin notions of proximity and reactivation are fundamental to my argument: they suppose a willingness to meet end users on their territory, and to hand over some of the authority divested from the “original” object.
I suggest, then, that portraying serial work as the anorexic imitation of an original it fails to approximate, completely misses the point. One must design for reproduction. When one approaches reproduction as its own media, exciting precisely because it belongs to, and reflects upon, industrial culture, the negative relationship that binds original and serial copy ceases to exist. As French curator Sylvie Boulanger argued in her recent essay “Publish or Be Damned,” of ephemera designed and given away by artists: “Publishing is not simply using a machine, but engaging with the economy of that machine. Whatever the technique (Xerox, digital, offset…) the media work is immersed in the economy of the production and distribution of that technology.” (5)
III.
Indeed, a few contemporary jewelers have embraced industrial fabrication as a mode of “proliferation,” while others play with the codes of industrial production to question the way we assign value to objects, and make manifest the contradicting agendas of high and low art.
Swiss artist Carole Guinard’s bijou triple exemplifies the “object-as-event” approach. Designed in 1987, bijou triple was conceived as a companion piece to the first Parisian jewelry biennial. A square piece of die-cut polyethylene with detachable, D.I.Y., component parts, it was distributed as an insert to the catalogue. Its purpose, I would argue, was to ‘celebrate the event of its distribution’ (6) with a form both determined by the context of its release and transformed by its consumption. On the one hand, it flaunts the constraints of its mode of distribution (the material and fabrication process are suitably cheap), on the other, it is very much about adornment: a playful take on status-jewelry (specifically, the parure, or set of matched jewels, once popular in
aristocratic circles), the design required hands-on participation from the user that few unique pieces allow. The result is a type of jewelry “flyer”: a quasi-object gambling on its capacity to outlive the moment of its initial encounter with the wearer.
Felix Lindner, from Germany, likes to work with cultural icons, tourists’ trinkets, and toys. While his contemporaries generally avoid references to the vernacular, lest their work be mistaken for high street or “commercial” jewelry, he seems to enjoy the ambiguity and the questions raised by the crossover. Lindner revels, as Warhol did, in culling his material from pedestrian sources—miniature Eiffel towers, toy race cars, or Lego parts—and he does so with irony: his Numero Uno ring, a lost-wax casting produced in an unlimited edition, and described as a signet ring, was “awarded” at Lindner’s degree show to visitors who took the time to look through his portfolio. In effect, Lindner turned the tables on his judges, and neutralized the competition by giving everyone a “first,” while also creating a self- deprecating statement of individuality: seductive because it pokes fun at the consumer’s appetite for unique, distinctive products, which paradoxically require mass exposure to become valid social markers. 
IV.
Guinard and Lindner, along with a few others like Ted Noten, Hans Stofer, or Svenja John, understand the relevance of mechanical (re)production as a means to greater diffusion, and as an extension of their creative palette. However, industrial solutions are not within easy reach of most artists. The cost of tooling, and of producing stock in a notoriously small market, can be daunting. Unless editions are commissioned, and their production financed (like Guinard’s piece), that maker may come to regret the time and money spent producing an inventory they find hard to shift.
Indeed, successful edition projects, like design projects, involve a partnership between a maker and a patron or investor. The German artist Svenja John uses Makrolon components in her jewelry: originally hand sawn, some are now cut using water jet technology to speed up the first stage of what is otherwise a very hands-on process. While her modular designs were initially viewed with suspicion by the gallery establishment, the polycarbonate manufacturer welcomed her innovative use of his material and offered her a sponsorship he felt was beneficial to both.
In fact, such a partnership focuses less on material value and traditional craft and more on communication and creativity. The Chi ha Paura? foundation, created by Dutch designer Gijs Bakker and Italian gallery owner Marijke Vallanzasca to produce and promote editions of artist jewelry, write of their “Sense of Wonder” collection: “With this project we want to emphasize new technology’s expressive potential […] Whatever the perspective chosen by the designers, the piece of jewelry must be designed as a means of communication. We want to bring about wonder, surprise or amazement in a field, the jewelry field, which is still very classical and traditional.”
For this collection, Frank Tjepkama & Janneke Hooymans submitted BlingBling (2002), a gold-plated pendant in the shape suggestive of a cross, that addresses themes like brand worship, status symbolism, rappers’ bling, and the golden calf, using a jumble of photo-etched logos to capture the cacophony of consumer brand advertisements, vying against one another for a piece of our soul. But most
pertinently, their eloquent use of modern technology engages with contemporary culture and injects a traditional shape with a street savvy that a more craft-based approach may have missed.
More accessible manufacturing processes are gaining ground in colleges worldwide: CAD technology, rapid prototyping, stereo lithography, photo-etching, and electroforming. They are certainly opening new avenues of research for jewelry designers, but it is still unclear whether they will encourage a more open attitude to editioning.
Ultimately, the debate around reproduction is less about processes than territory: will contemporary jewelry lose its specificity by relinquishing craft? In their struggle to find recognition, contemporary jewelers seem to have made two assumptions: First, that contemporary jewelry should speak the language of craft; secondly, that its bid for artistic credibility is incompatible with “non-artistic” modes of production and distribution. Both assumptions set useless limits, and are equally useless as road maps: one is reductive, the other, reactionary. While craft is very much about process, I would argue that contemporary jewelry need not always be. Editions interact with a production world that is alien to craft, and allow us to tackle issues that may not be within the reach of “precious,” anvil-hewn, gallery-bound objects.
In the words of critic Love Jönsson: “The pure, self-referential objects that are elevated above everyday reality, no longer form the natural end goal for the practitioners in either arts or crafts. Today’s crafts are marked by their oscillation between a claim to aesthetic autonomy on the one hand, and an increasingly more complex linkage to the contemporary cultural and commercial system on the other.” (7)
Will mass-produced contemporary jewelry achieve museum-grade credibility? Recent efforts by some makers to adopt gallery codes of conduct insure that it will. But unless jewelry artists concurrently expand their modes of production and reach out to the greater public with affordable work, that enriches their lives with disposable wonders, those museum captions might one day read like epitaphs to an art movement with no circulation. « (Benjamin Lignel)

Bethel, Metalsmith Magazine, 2008
(This article first appeared in Metalsmith, Summer 2008. Metalsmith is published by the Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG), the premier association of jewelers, designers and metalsmiths, 
www.snagmetalsmith.org)

Carole Guinard - piece ‘Bijou triple’ 1987 – sheet of pre-cut polyethylene 

 

(1)
Andy Warhol, The Philosophy of Andy Warhol (from A to B and Back Again (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1975), p.148.
(2)
“All else” being the intensely varied repertoire of contemporary jewelers, and their concerted efforts to re-invent jewelry “as they go along.”
(3)
This, and the following excerpts are from Walter Benjamin, « The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction. » Transcribed by Andy Blunden for the UCLA School of Theater, Film and Television, in 1998. Original text written in 1936.
(4)
His essay points out how photography and film redefined our experience of art by both being readily accessible and “putting the public in the position of the critic.” This foreshadows later artistic forays into participative strategies: moving on from his role as critic, one witnesses the ‘powerful rise of the viewer as co-producer of knowledge’ (Yann Moulier-Boutang, as quoted by Sylvie Boulanger, « Publish or be Damned, » http://www.cneai.com/text-boulanger-publishUK.html, 2005.) An example of this within jewelry is Ted Noten’s ‘Chew your own Brooch’ project (1998).
(5)
Sylvie Boulanger, op. cit.
(6)
The expression is found in Sylvie Boulanger’s essay. « Publish or be Damned, » where she refers to ephemera, i.e. free give-aways designed (and generally produced and distributed) by fine artists.
(7)
Love Jönsson, “Life among Things, The Continuous present,” in Craft in Dialogue: Six Views on a Practice in Change, ed. (Stockholm: IASPIS, 2005), p.84