BIJOU_CONTEMPORAIN

Bienvenue sur mon blog

28/10/2011

….. et plonger dans le grand BLEU !

Classé dans : Akiko BAN (JP),Aldo MONDINO (IT),Alexis KOSTUK (CA),Aline BERDICHEVSKY (MX),Andi GUT (CH),Andrea JANOSIK (SK),Annamaria ZANELLA (IT),Anne GOLDFARB (FR),Anthony TAMMARO (US),Anya KIVARKIS (US),Arthur HASH (US),Babette EGERLAND (DE),Barbara PAGANIN (IT),Benedikt FISCHER (AT),Birgit SKOLIMOWSKI (EE),Blanche TILDEN (AU),Camilla TEGLIO (IT),Carola BAUER (DE),Carolina GIMENO (Chili),Catherine JACQUET (FR),Celio BRAGA (BR),Christian ASTUGUEVIEILLE (FR),Christophe MARGUIER (FR),Coco DUNMIRE (US),COUP DE COEUR,David BIELANDER (CH/DE),Denise Julia REYTAN (DE),Donald FRIEDLICH (US),Dora HARALAMBAKI (GR),Eleanor BOLTON (UK),Emiko OYE (US),Enrica PRAZZOLI (IT),Estela Saez VILANOVA (ES),Farah BANDOOKWALA (UK),Farrah AL-DUJAILI (UK),Floor MOMMERSTEEG (NL),Flora VAGI (HU),Gemma DRAPER (ES),Gesine HACKENBERG (NL),Giampaolo BABETTO (IT),GIIA (IT),Gijs BAKKER (NL),Giorgio VIGNA (IT),Graziano VISINTIN (IT),Gulnur OZDAGLAR (TR),Hana KARIM (Sl),Hanna LILJENBERG (SE),Hannah FEWTRELL-BOLTON (UK),Hanneke PAUMEN (NL),Helen BRITTON (AU),Helena LEHTINEN (FI),Helfried KODRE (AT),Jacqueline RYAN (UK),Jean-Francois PERENA (FR),Jean-Pierre DUSSAILLANT (FR),Jessica CALDERWOOD (US),Jillian MOORE (US),Joanna GOLLBERG (US),Julia deVILLE (AU),Karin KATO (JP),Kate BAUMAN (US),Kath INGLIS (AU),Katie SCHUTTE (US),Liana PATTIHIS (CY/UK),Lisa JUEN (CN),Lucia MASSEI (IT),Luis ACOSTA (RA),Maria Rosa FRANZIN (IT),Marijke de GOEY (NL),Marta MATTSSON (SE),Melissa TOLAR (US),Mia MALJOJOKI (FI),Mikiko MINEWAKI (JP),Mirjam HILLER (DE),Mirla FERNANDES (BR),Nel LINSSEN (NL),Nora FOK (UK),Paolo SCURA (IT),Patricia LEMAIRE (FR),Pawel KACZYNSKI (PL),Peter HOOGEBOOM (NL),Pilar GARRIGOSA (ES),Rallou KATSARI (GR),Ralph BAKKER (NL),Sam Tho DUONG (VN),Sara BORGEGARD (SE),Sari LIIMATTA (FI),Sayumi YOKOUCHI (JP),Shannon CARNEY (US),Silvia WALZ (DE),Stacey BENTLEY (UK),Stefano POLETTI (IT),Sue GREGOR (UK),Susanne ELSTNER (DE),Susie GANCH (US),Tabea REULECKE (DE),Tanel VEENRE (EE),Tobias ALM (SE),Ute EITZENHOFER (DE),Viktoria MUNZKER (SK/AT),Yoko SHIMIZU (JP),Yurij BYLKOV (RU) — bijoucontemporain @ 15:15

THANKS to  Marta Miguel Martínez-Soria page/selection on Pinterest, about blue jewellery !!!! it was the departure for this ….. blue OCEAN !! :-) or, to be more in the « intellectual » actuality, « 99 shades of … BLUE » !! ;-)

 

http://bijoucontemporain.unblog.fr/files/2010/04/giorgiovignagorgoglioperit.jpg
Giorgio Vigna – gorgoglio – vetro

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/137/361132538_704fa78bb4.jpg
Arthur Hash  Blue Wave (cast polyurethane)

http://www.galleryloupe.com/Artist/DonaldFriedlich/Gallery_Loupe_1.jpg
Donald FRIEDLICH  (gal. Loupe)brooch ‘Translucence’ series – glass, 18k & 14k gold, diamondhttp://images.artnet.com/artwork_images_425446624_609950_gesine-hackenberg.jpg
Gésine Hackenberg- Table Glass: Dutch/Finnish Still Life, Brooch

http://www.siennagallery.com/images/project/resize/gha54.jpg
Gésine Hackenberg Double Glass Still life BroochFinnish table glass (vintage by Itala); cut and ground

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Giampaolo Babetto – Brosche

http://www.wcc-europe.org/images/images-competitions/EPAA2009/MasterPrize-web/Visintin-1wccbf.jpg
Graziano Visintinbroche – or, argent, niellage – 2009 

   Graziano VISINTIN broche 2
Graziano VisintinBrooch, 2006 – 18k gold, enamel, gold leaf  (The David Collection)

Lisa JUEN - don't dream it wear it - blue brooch or necklace
Lisa JUEN – ‘don’t dream it wear it’ – blue brooch or necklace- Lasercut Stainless Steel, CZ, LED, LED Screen, Plastic, Cable, Light Switch, Battery

Maria Rosa Franzin Maria Rosa Franzin brooch

Pilar Garrigosa   broochPilar Garrigosa brooch

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VWGTB9HcXPk/SQo55K822KI/AAAAAAAAABU/8He12bub64o/s320/juliadevillewing.bmp
Julia deVille (AU) – ‘Mechanical Wing’
brooch, Kingfisher Wing, silver

http://www.luisacosta.nl//mediapool/67/677116/images/17_paper_bracelet.jpg
Luis Acosta – paper bracelet

http://www.apparat.be/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Marta-Mattsson-3.jpg
Märta Mattsson

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Rallou Katsari - ‘whispering loud’ ring

..... et plonger dans le grand BLEU ! dans Akiko BAN (JP) Reconstruction-8-300x225Reconstruction-1-300x225 dans Aldo MONDINO (IT)

Aline Berdichevsky – brooches “Reconstructio »

http://www.rietveldacademie.nl/u/2149/2067/650-Fischer1.jpg
Benedikt Fischer – brooches

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Christian Astuguevieille – Bracelet éponge bleue (La Piscine, Roubaix – don de l’artiste en 1995)

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Stefano Poletti- Collier en éponge naturelle teintée et perle recouverte de feuille d’or monté sur fil d’or

The Scottish Gallery Nel Linssen - blue bangleNel Linssen – blue bangle – paper

ute_eitzenhoefer dans Alexis KOSTUK (CA)
Ute Eitzenhöfer – brooch – Mixed media (labradorite)

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Eleanor Bolton – blue(s) necklaces

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Tabea Reuleake – ring

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Birgit Skolimowski (EE)

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Estela Saez Good by(e) nest.” serie  2008- ‘SEPIA’ – silver/wool/fabrics/paint

http://carolinagimeno.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/serieii_objetosportables_brooch01.jpg?w=600
Carolina Gimeno- portable objects

Phacella Congesta from Portable Objects 2010
Carolina Gimeno-‘Phacella Congesta’ from Portable Objects 2010 – brooch

Zurciendo cuerpos sobre el mapa 2009
Carolina Gimeno- ‘Zurciendo cuerpos sobre el mapa’ 2009 – Brooch – Copper, Vitreus Enamel, wood, silver , steel

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Carolina Gimeno (Chili) – série “dibujando en el espacio”

Flora Vagi – curious wish – brooch Flora Vagi – curious wish – brooch

http://static.velvetdavinci.com/images/ganchdustseries_blueweb.jpg
Susie Ganch – blue dust enamel brooch

Flora Vagi  azur reverse necklace  ebony, silk, cord enamel,18 ct gold - 2005 Flora Vagi -azur reverse necklace – ebony, silk, cord enamel,18 ct gold – 2005

http://www.flowgallery.co.uk/images/56/Stacey-Bentley.jpg
Stacey Bentley brooch – enamel

Blanche Tilden - Compress necklace
Blanche Tilden – “Compress” necklace - glass

http://static.velvetdavinci.com/images/marguieresperancehommeweb.jpg
Christophe Marguier – ‘esperance de vie de l’homme’ necklace- plastic, silver, steel

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_cYVRtVbBSiA/SY8tH2lzA_I/AAAAAAAAA0o/ydpO3YTiGNw/s400/8-subat-002.jpg
Gulnur OZDAGLAR – PET jewelry

http://stylefrizz.com/img/pet-jewelry-gulnur-ozdaglar-6.jpg
Gulnur OZDAGLAR – PET jewelry necklace

http://bijoucontemporain.unblog.fr/files/2010/03/cathjacquetcolliercascadebijoutifulnimes.jpg
Catherine Jacquet – collier cascade – plastiques

Barbara Paganin - broche 'fiore di luce'
Barbara PAGANIN (IT) broche ‘fiore di luce’ – verre  (Galerie SLAVIK)

GIIA - blue wave
GIIA (IT) “blue wave” felt neckpiece

"Mimesi n2"  Collana: legno, carta giapponese, argento, colore Camilla Teglio – « Mimesi n2″  Collana : legno, carta giapponese, argento, colore

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_dDiJ3Beteq0/SiC94UT0CAI/AAAAAAAADgA/WyD35pi_u3s/s400/Lucia+Massei4.png
 Lucia Massei - pendant ‘Comunque e sempre’ 18kt yellow gold, silver, iron, ruby, black spinels 2009

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dcSxOItKs-k/TaDEqWMFibI/AAAAAAAAIW4/ftvfcfAXK6o/s1600/Catalina+Brenes.jpg
 Lucia Massei -  bague « la bella adormentata »


Mirla Fernandes - "Herança" necklace - latex, paint, porcelain
Mirla Fernandes- Herança necklace- latex,paint, porcelain – 2006

Peter  Hoogeboom - chainmail porcelain necklacesPeter  Hoogeboom – chainmail porcelain necklaces

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Liana Pattihis  - Blue Circle Brooch 2007 – Silver, copper, enamel stainless steel – Inspired by Wassily Kandinsky’s Painting ‘Blue Circle’

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Liana Pattihis - Brooch: Blue Istos 02 2010 -silver Light Trace Chain, Copper, Enamel, St. Steel

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Viktoria Münzker- Kollektion PARADISO

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Mirjam Hiller - Catopsia – brooch – stainless steel powdercoating, titanium

Sari Liimatta "The Costume I", necklace, 2006glass beads, fresh water pearls, metal, plastic toySari Liimatta « The Costume I », necklace, 2006 glass beads, fresh water pearls, metal, plastic toy

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Mia Maljojoki - 2010 (Photo: Mirei Takeuchi)

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Sara Borgegård  2009 necklace, wood, paint, iron, cotton

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Sara Borgegård necklace

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Yuri Bylkov - ring- metal, paper, acrylic – 2009

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Alexis Kostuk“high gear” brooch- copper, which I used a patina on to darken, pearls & gem beads, sterling silver ball chain, resin, and flocking.

I gioielli di Denise Julia Reytan
Denise Julia Reytan

Momentaufnahme_9 par DENISE JULIA REYTAN
Denise Julia Reytan- Snapshots”

Dora Haralambaki - earthenweare clay rings with colour glazes Dora Haralambaki - ceramic ring

http://www.frizzifrizzi.it/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/edith_bellod_2.jpg
Edith Bellod - collier en porcelaine de limoges : “kaléidoscope”

http://zero925.blox.pl/resource/Zanella_NEW_015B75D5.jpg
Annamaria Zanella – brooch

http://bijoucontemporain.unblog.fr/files/2010/02/andigutring.jpg
Andi Gut - ring

Orden%20saabujale-01 dans Aline BERDICHEVSKY (MX)
Tanel Veenre“Orden for the one who is arriving”

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Helfried Kodré - brooch

102210 dans Andi GUT (CH)Helfried Kodré, Bague
Helfried Kodré - ring, silver, lapislazuli – ring, gold, silver, turquoise, bronze, 2007

http://www.undo.net/Pressrelease/foto/1213276330b.jpg
Aldo Mondino, BIC – cristallo di rocca, lapislazzuli e tappo in oro smaltato blu, esemplare unico – 2008

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSsl7CALSHHVOWCxSsRQTIoq8oDvFL8ivWphN_QHwCsRqTQZnEqD03dmneYwA
Aldo Mondino, BIC necklace

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_dUyHBClqjkA/SeemFQe2bsI/AAAAAAAAI2c/S6KpiPOhWGc/s400/toaletka+nr1.jpg
Paweł Kaczyński

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Paweł Kaczyński – Silver and Steel Water Bracelet

 dans Andrea JANOSIK (SK)
Hannah Fewtrell-Bolton - restriction 3 – conceptual textile

http://www.elsa-vanier.fr/images/objets/080730_JPDu_BagCatctus_Fich.jpg
Jean-Pierre Dussaillant- Bague “Cactus”

http://whipup.net/wp-content/images/anya%202.jpg
Anya Kivarkis – copper, silver, enamel brooch

http://www.rewarestyle.com/art/img/ca17b-duchess2_full_W.jpghttp://www.rewarestyle.com/art/img/ca17-duchess2_W.jpg
Emiko Oye – duchess2_ Necklace from My First Royal Jewels Jewellery Collection. Repurposed LEGO necklace inspired by Cartier’s diamond, emerald and platinum necklace, and Harry Winston’s pendant, 1960. emiko-o 2008.

Enrica Prazzoli, necklace, 2011 (Alchimia school)Enrica Prazzoli – Ives Klein (Alchimia – 2011)

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Enrica Prazzoli (from Alchimia) blue Klein collection rings 

Floor Mommersteeg, Pebble-necklace, nylon Floor MommersteegPebble-necklace, nylon



http://www.floormommersteeg.nl/collection/images/20100414184349_dsc09285brooch2stones.jpg
Floor Mommersteegbroche

Hana Karim Ceramic Jewelry Hana Karim  Ceramic Jewelry

Helen Britton broochHelen Britton – brooch 

Quinault3_640 dans Annamaria ZANELLA (IT)
Hanna Liljenberg -  Quinault 3, halssmycke järn, oljefärg, lintråd, silver

babetteblauerballon dans Anne GOLDFARB (FR)
Babette Egerland- ring “Ballonschmuck” 925 Ag rhodiniert

FARAH BANDOOKWALA -blue hair brooch    http://farahb.com/Farah Bandookwala (UK) – blue hair brooch

http://www.konstepidemin.se/hnoss/Mikiko%20Minewaki/toy-camera.jpg
Mikiko Minewaki-
‘toy-camera’ necklace

Katie Schutte - cluster necklace - crocheted silver wireKatie Schutte – Cluster necklace – crocheted, electroformed, and powdercoated found wire, cubic zirconia

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Shannon Carney ring

http://static.velvetdavinci.com/images/kathinglisbluepollinatorweb.jpg
Kath Inglis  “Blue Pollinator” Brooch

AKIKO BAN / Collar 2010Akiko Ban- collar – 2010  (from Alchimia)

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Jillian Moore -  brooch-pendant ‘Cucurbits’ 2008 Fiberglass, resin, copper, paint, felt

Joanna Gollberg - prong series blue broochJoanna Gollberg - prong series blue brooch

http://rednoise.org/~dhowe/sayumi.jpg
Sayumi Yokouchi - ‘Layered’ Brooch in plastic, silk thread, and stainless steel.

http://www.facerejewelryart.com/pictures/KKA001.jpg
Karin Kato – ‘QU4DRO’ Brooch in sand, resin, and silver

b99bajoagua dans Anthony TAMMARO (US)
Silvia WalzUnder water brooch-  Series: Burbujas   – silver, copper, resine, enamel, glas – 2010

All images from ¡Genial!  New Jewelry from Spain at Velvet da Vinci Gallery,
Silvia Walz La visionaria (Geometria Series) Brooch

Tobias Alm – Summer series – Necklace. Cotton, wood, paint. Picture from http://www.tobiasalm.com/projects/summerseries1.html Tobias Alm - Summer series 2009 Necklace. Cotton, wood, paint

Jessica Calderwood, Portrait of an Eye Brooch/Pendant, Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel
Jessica Calderwood -Portrait of an Eye’ Brooch/Pendant – Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel

blue-white-ruins-ring_Gal700px dans Anya KIVARKIS (US)
Gésine Hackenberg  – ‘blue white ruins’ ring

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Carola Bauer necklace – Silver, enamel

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Jacqueline Ryan 18kt gold and vitreous enamel brooch

Jean-François PEREÑA - bracelet -cuir, lapis-lazuli, plexiglas (bleu), argentJean-François PEREÑA - MON bracelet ! PETIT
Jean-François PEREÑA -  bracelet -cuir, lapis-lazuli, nacre, plexiglas (bleu), argent

http://blog.spo-creations.com/public/MES_PHOTOS/HAUTE_COUTURE/Aspara_la_Bleue_1-_1999_defile_Lapidus.jpg

Patricia Lemaire – Aspara la Bleue 1- 1999 défilé Lapidus

Anne Goldfarb OUT OF AFRICA - 2011 Collier Soie, Argent, Fil d’aluminiumAnne Goldfarb – OUT OF AFRICA – Collier Soie, Argent, Fil d’aluminium – Afedap 2011

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Andrea Janosik- Blue Brooch - sIlver and suede - 2007

00360-0-10-1-blue-amdder-cuff dans Arthur HASH (US)
Sue GREGOR – cuff

http://www.chihapaura.com/cms/blob.php?shop_products,foto1,118&c=390x390
Gijs Bakker- Bracelet « Porsche bracelet » stéréolithographie, polyuréthane -, 2000

http://www.ornamentumgallery.com/gallery/images/big/bielander_enzian%20brooch.jpg
David Bielander – Enzian Brooch – titanium

http://comeunagazzaladra.files.wordpress.com/2010/01/sam_tho_duong_03.jpg
Sam Tho Duong


0501_Hanneke_Paumen_Tule_Blauw dans Babette EGERLAND (DE)Hanneke Paumen (NL) – Tulle blauw Collar (detail)- felt

kate bauman Kate Bauman  - barnacle no.9 (ring) – enamel, copper, sterling silver

http://ganoksin.com/blog/heatherskowoodjewelry/files/2008/10/anthony_tammaro_decapus3.gif
Anthony Tammaro – « neck object » – Gypsum/Epoxy/Silicone

http://api.ning.com/files/1*O9Hi3lxisakPgZBUId-p9pV0nc3mA6a3nZT836RickOMkqUzEjWHCd5mhH1UkXM5Bs1JHUN3*UJMTIdeAPCfl2tzTVas0M/brooch3royalblue2.jpg?width=605&height=600
Farah Bandookwala (UK) http://www.farahb.com- Parasite series: magnetic brooches – Rapid prototyped nylon, stainless steel, dye, rare earth magnets. Collection of brooches with interchangable magnetic backs

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UqjSuD7mDgI/SD2PDevWSNI/AAAAAAAABSs/46sntK0ILug/s400/eMT3-full.jpeg
Melissa TOLAR  - Enamel, hand-cast gems, and pearl jewelry

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Mirla Fernandes

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Mirla Fernandes ring

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Ralph Bakker “the Fly” – earrings

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Yoko Shimizu – necklace – resin, pigment, silver

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Yoko Shimizu  (from Alchimia school), necklace from the « transformation » series – 2010

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Celio Braga, Brazil (Think Twice: New Latin American Jewellery exhibition)

http://www.martamattsson.com/jj/The%20Human%20Touch/Cricketbrooch.jpg
Marta Mattsson- The Human Touch – Cricket brooch

Susanne Elstner, brosche Susanne Elstner, brosche

image16 dans Barbara PAGANIN (IT)
Farrah Al-DujailiNecklace – Copper, enamel paint, watercolour pencil, thread2010

http://bijoucontemporain.unblog.fr/files/2010/07/carolinagimenochile.jpg
Carolina Gimeno (Chile) resinas – bracelet

http://online.wsj.com/media/shannon_DV_20091008151315.jpg
Shannon Carney – medium collar resin necklace

http://www.koldinghus.dk/Files/Billeder/Udstillinger/2011/Biennalen%202011/HeleneLentinen.jpg
Helena Lehtinen- Gardens Collection, Blue brooch, 2011 Wood, thread, beads

http://d30opm7hsgivgh.cloudfront.net/upload/377730577_bFQbMysw_c.jpgMARIJKE DE GOEY – 1999 – Pièce unique. BAGUE « Curly » en or or et titane à patine bleue

http://d30opm7hsgivgh.cloudfront.net/upload/400241818_gLjVe4hH_c.jpgMirjam Hiller  brooch

http://d30opm7hsgivgh.cloudfront.net/upload/361930222_GBEjRU19_c.jpgGemma Draper, Barcelona- brooch

http://d30opm7hsgivgh.cloudfront.net/upload/356997270_LxrFhZ7L_c.jpgNora Fok  ring

http://d30opm7hsgivgh.cloudfront.net/upload/356948780_XNkG13Hq_c.jpgPaolo Scura - ring 

25/01/2011

Innovation in ENAMEL jewelry – Research project by Jessica Turrell

The Innovation in Enamel Jewellery database is one of the outcomes of the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC)  funded three-year fellowship Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surfaces for Jewellery.

As part of the research project extensive research was undertaken to identify a group of internationally prominent contemporary jewellers whose practice demonstrates an open and innovative approach to the use of enamel. When complete the database will feature images and supporting information on the work of approximately 30 artists. The aim of the database is to highlight the potential of enamel as an expressive and contemporary medium as well as serving as an important research tool.

The database, which is fully searchable, focuses exclusively on enamel jewellery and complements the existing archive ICVEA (International Contemporary Vitreous Enamel Archive) that is also hosted by the University of the West of England and which includes a broad range of contemporary enamel work.

Currently the database features the work of the following artists:
Carola Bauer – Germany
Jamie Bennett – USA
Stacey Bentley – UK
Patrizia Bonati – Italy
Stephen Bottomley – UK
Jessica Calderwood – USA
Lydia Feast – UK
Mirjam Hiller – Germany
Ike Junger – Germany
Kaori Juzu – Denmark
Ann Little – UK
Lianna Pattihis – UK
Jacqueline Ryan – Italy
Isabell Schaupp – Germany
Vera Siemund – The Netherlands
Marjorie Simon – USA
Elizabeth Turrell – UK
Jessica Turrell – UK
Annamaria Zanella – Italy
The following artist will be added in early autumn 2010:
Jennaca Davies – USA
Carolina Gimeno – Spain
Christine Graf – Germany
Sangeun Kim – UK
Natalia Pinchuck – USA
Barbara Seidenath – USA

Electroformed and enamelled pendants
 Jessica Turrell

 

 

 Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surfaces in Jewellery

(UWE – University of the West England – Bristol – AHRC (Arts and Humanities Research Council) Vitreous Enamel Research Project)

Awarding body: Arts and Humanities Research Council
Awarded to: Jessica Turrell
Project duration: 1.09.2007 – 31.08.2010

introduction:
The research project is based on the premise that there is huge and largely unexplored potential for innovation within the field of enamelled jewellery. By taking both a practice-led and theoretical approach the aim of the project has been to identify factors that might hinder innovation and present a series of alternative approaches that encourage a more experimental and open-minded approach to enamel.

Research Context
The practical aspects of the research project were underpinned by theoretical and contextual research into the place of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice. This included a wide-ranging visual and literature survey. Web-based research combined with a series of visits to individual practitioners in the USA and Europe as well as to significant exhibitions and collections in Europe, the UK and USA, provided a broad overview of current enamel jewellery practice. This contextual research led to the identification of a number of contemporary jewellers for whom enamel forms a significant part of their practice. A methodology was developed by which the output of these jewellers was analyzed and then allocated to one of three distinct categories. These were as follows:

Skilled (fine) – broadly work that concentrates on traditional enamelling techniques to create work for a mainstream or commercial market.

New – where the work itself engages with contemporary ideas but where enamel is used simply to add a paint-like layer of colour to the surface of the piece using only basic techniques.

Innovative – where the two practices overlap and the artist is able to demonstrate both a k

A selected group of individuals, identified through this process as falling into the Innovative category, were then invited to submit images and supporting written material to the new Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surfaces in Jewellery database that operates alongside (and is complimentary to) the existing International Contemporary Vitreous Enamel Archive (ICVEA) currently held by the Enamel Research Unit at the University of the West of England, Bristol.

Link to Innovation in Enamel Jewellery database

The contextual and theoretical aspects of the project are examined in depth in an article for Craft Research entitled Surface and Substance – a call for the fusion of skill and ideas in contemporary enamel jewellery.
The article is available online at the following site: craft research journal online

Discussion Forum
A variety of approaches have been taken in order to stimulate debate and comment regarding the place of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice. The first of these was a discussion forum entitled ‘Innovation in Enamel’ which has involved a number of internationally prominent enamel artists all of whom demonstrate a non-traditional approach to their enamel practice. The central aim of this forum has been to highlight the potential of enamel as an innovative medium and to stimulate debate about the aesthetic, conceptual and practical considerations that govern the use of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice. The forum has operated as a members’ only project, meaning that the site can only be accessed by registered members and they alone are able to view the content and submit comment. The rational for this was to encourage those involved to freely discuss their ideas without the constraints of operating within a public arena.

Selected extracts and a summary of the discussions threads can be accessed here.

In addition to the forum site, Jessica has initiated a discussion strand -‘Surface and substance: the place of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice’, which appears on the International Art Jewellery Online Community, Klimt02 – www.klimt02.net/blogs

These two discussion strands have informed the written and theoretical aspects of the research and the production of a number of case studies.
Case Studies
The case studies feature artists who were chosen as representative of a broad and diverse range of approaches to enamel :

Innovation in ENAMEL jewelry - Research project by Jessica Turrell dans Annamaria ZANELLA (IT) bottomley_large
Stephen Bottomley, Yellow Drape Neckpiece, Laser-cut steel and enamel -(Photo: John K. McGregor)

pattihis_large dans Barbara SEIDENATH (DE)
Liana Pattihis, Coral Red Snake Chain Brooch 2009

isabell_schaupp dans Carola BAUER (DE)
Isabell Schaupp, Brooch, Enamel, copper, silver, 2009

christine_graf dans Carolina GIMENO (Chili)
Christine Graf, 2010

In order to 

promote innovative enamel jewellery to the widest possible audience Jessica is currently curating a significant international exhibition that will feature a group of jewellers identified for their innovative use of enamel. The show will begin its tour at Contemporary Applied Arts in London in late 2011, and will then travel to a number of venues across the UK including to the Ruthin Craft Centre in Wales.


Practical and Technical Research

The focus of the practical element of the research has been an investigation into the use of innovative and experimental enamelling techniques in the production of contemporary jewellery. Methods and approaches more usually associated with large-scale and panel enamelling and industrial processes have been adapted for use in wearable pieces. This investigation is supported by the development of a range of techniques that allow for the creation of three-dimensional forms that can be successfully enamelled.
The practical and technical aspects of the research fall into two main categories, these are the production of three-dimensional forms capable of being enamelled in the round and the development of enamelling techniques suitable for application to these three-dimensional forms.

Three-dimensional form trials

Initial research involved investigations into the use of three-dimensional forms created using traditional forming, construction and joining methods. The most commonly used joining technique is the use of high melting-point (or hard) silver solders. The received wisdom is that it is not possible to enamel directly over a soldered joint as the solder will discolour the overlying enamel and can in some cases cause it to come away from the soldered joint. In order to test this theory, extensive investigations were undertaken into the use of a group of silver alloy solders, which were tested for their stability and the effect that they had on the subsequent layer of fired enamel.

Although some solders gave better results than others they all visibly interfered with the enamel they were directly in contact with in some way.

As an alternative to the use of solders, fusion and laser welding were investigated. Both these methods use high levels of accurately directed heat to achieve a fused joint that does not require any additional solder. Although, to differing degrees, both of these techniques created a satisfactory join over which enamel could successfully be applied without too many problems the equipment required was not easily accessible, required outside assistance and was expensive to trial. For these reasons this avenue of research was not pursued.
It seemed that a seam free object should prove the ideal form over which to apply the enamel. There are a number of small-scale silver and copper-smithing techniques that can be employed to raise a seam-free hollow form from a flat sheet of meta,l but such methods are technically demanding and particularly difficult on a small scale. Thus this avenue of research was also rejected. Instead, the technique of electroforming seemed to offer a versatile and accessible method for the creation of 3D forms, and it became clear that a detailed investigation of the technique would prove to be the most productive strand of research.

To this end bespoke electroforming equipment was researched, designed, and built, and a series of tests undertaken. Research and trials were carried out to establish the most suitable materials and methods of production of base forms upon which metal might be deposited during the electroforming process.

Discussions took place with colleagues from the 3D Research Laboratory within the CFPR into the possibilities of creating mandrels using rapid prototyping techniques, and the indicative trials that were carried out to ascertain the suitability of the RP process to create electroforming mandrels and the potential for the medium with which the object is printed both to withstand the process and be easily removed as a core prior to enamelling. As a direction for further research these initial trials hold a lot of promise.
This collaborative strand of research was documented in a poster presentation given during the IMPACT 7 conference in 2009.

In order for the electroforming process to occur it is necessary that the surface of the object to be electroformed is able to conduct an electrical current. As a number of non-conductive materials had been identified as appropriate to this research it was therefore necessary to undertake a further series of trails to establish the most suitable electro-conductive coatings for the purposes of the project.

The final experiments in the production of the underlying electroforms was to trial all the variable of the electroforming process itself to establish the best method for the creation of a smooth and stable form of an appropriate surface and structure that would withstand the application of enamel.

Enamelling trials
In order to develop methods for the application of enamel to the three-dimensional forms resulting from the first strand of investigation, a comprehensive series of tests for the application and adhesion of jewellery and industrial enamel to two and 3D surfaces was undertaken. Stilting and firing methods for 3D objects enamelled in the round were also investigated. Methodology for the recording of technical tests has been developed and trialed and a standardized format has been developed, informed by these trials, which has been used to record the results of all tests undertaken.

Practical Outcomes
On completion of the practical trials a group of jewellery pieces were created using the methods established as most appropriate in the realization of a defined personal aesthetic. These pieces were exhibited at Contemporary Applied Art in London during June and July 2010.

finished2 dans Christine GRAF (DE)
Jessica Turrell- Electroformed and enamelled pendants

fiinished1 dans Elizabeth TURRELL (UK)
Jessica Turrell- Electroformed and enamelled pendants

 

Dissemination
The practical and theoretical outcomes of the project were disseminated by a number of methods throughout the period of the research.

symposium:
A symposium was held at the Bower Ashton Campus, University of the West of England in July 2010:
Read a review of the symposium here – http://www.iom3.org/news/enamoured-enamel

SUMMARY:
Addressing an audience composed of professional makers, academics, researchers and students the symposium examined the place of enamel within contemporary jewellery practice, celebrating its potential as an exciting and innovative material. At a time when increasing numbers of contemporary jewellers are rediscovering enamel this event offered a timely opportunity for the sharing of information and ideas plus a chance to network and take part in debate.

 

Conclusion
The ultimate aim of the project has been to demonstrate the potential of enamel as an exciting and innovative material and to thus affect a change in the commonly held perception that enamel is a medium not readily associated with contemporary jewellery practice. It is anticipated that the dissemination of the outcomes of the research project Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surface for Jewellery will go some way towards the creation of an environment where the innovative potential of the material is more widely recognized, both by the jewellery community and within art education, thus allowing a more ambitious and rigorous enamel practice to flourish.

 

Visit the CAA exhibition page at http://www.caa.org.uk/exhibitions/archive

JessicaTurrell dans email / enamel
Jessica Turrell

« The intimate scale of jewellery is a central factor in my practice. I strive to create work that has a tactile delicacy and that rewards the wearers close attention with an intricate and detailed surface. Over recent years I have developed an experimental approach to enamel by which I seek to create work that moves away from traditional jewellery enamel practice in order to achieve a more ambiguous and expressive surface quality. » (Jessica Turrell)

Exhibitions 2010 – Showcasing a New Collection of Enamel Jewellery 18 June – 17 July 2010, London

All images from The Enamel Experience at Velvet da Vinci Gallery,

 

Elizabeth Turrell – cross Badges (exhibition « The Enamel Experience », Velvet da Vinci Gallery, 2008)

 

Image de prévisualisation YouTube

 

Image de prévisualisation YouTube

02/08/2010

Le CORPS en morceaux ………. from ‘ANATOMY LESSONS’ exhibition

from ‘ANATOMY LESSONS’ exhibition, at « Taboo Studio« , San Diego (USA) 7 mai-18 juin 2010

Des bijoux qui représentent le corps humain, mais fractionné, bout à bout, comme des petits cailloux pour la mémoire semés par un Petit Poucet qui voudrait retrouver le (bon/droit) chemin ….

et, dès le départ, la série de Jessica Calderwood nous fait de l’oeil …..

Jessica Calderwood, Portrait of an Eye Brooch/Pendant, Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel
Jessica Calderwood -Portrait of an Eye’ Brooch/Pendant – Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel

http://greendragonladyvintage.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/calderwoodjblinkfront.jpg
Jessica Calderwood, Blink (enamel, copper and sterling silver)

See image caption.
Jessica CalderwoodAsymmetry’ Brooch- Enamel on copper, sterling, 18k foil. 

Jessica Calderwood, Portrait of a Nose Brooch, Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steelJessica Calderwood, Portrait of an Ear Brooch/Pendant, Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel
Jessica Calderwood  -Portrait of a Nose’ Brooch Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel
Jessica Calderwood  -Portrait of an Ear’ Brooch/Pendant - Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel

Jessica Calderwood, Navel Brooch/Pendant, Enamel on copper, nu-gold, sterling, stainless steel
Jessica Calderwood - Navel Brooch/Pendant - Enamel on copper, nu-gold, sterling, stainless steel

Jessica Calderwood, Before and After Brooch (reversable), Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel, 18k foilJessica Calderwood, Before and After Brooch (reversable), Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel, 18k foil
Jessica Calderwood (US) – ‘Before and After’ Brooch (reversable) – Enamel on copper, sterling, stainless steel, 18k foil

« My most recent series consists of psychological portraits that address ideas of consumption and personal obsession using irony, humor and vibrant color. Using a combination of traditional metalsmithing processes, such as raising and die-forming as well as industrial processes such as laser-jet cutting, this work aims to merge contemporary enameled imagery with traditional forms.« ( Jessica Calderwood)

Le CORPS en morceaux .......... from 'ANATOMY LESSONS' exhibition dans Anne DONZE (FR) 548_2B1T3065
Diane Falkenhagen   « After Canova’s Paulina » Brooch/Pendant – 2010

cette broche de Diane Falkenhagen illustre parfaitement ce sentiment de « corps morcelé« , mis en pièce(s) ……

http://greendragonladyvintage.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/harrisondozenrosebuds.jpg
Julia D. Harrison - Rosebud Brooches -wood, lacquer, gouache, epoxy + more

Julia D. Harrison, Holler Brooches,
Julia D. Harrison (US) ‘Holler’ Brooches – wood

http://greendragonladyvintage.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/wauzynksismalldemands.jpg
Sarah J.G. Wauzynski, ‘Small Demands’ – brooch – sterling silver, egg tempera pigment, gold

See image caption.
Randy Long (US) – Brooch – Sterling, hand carved marble

See image caption.
Randy J. Long-  St.Sebastian Brooch – handcarved shell cameo, 22k gold

http://greendragonladyvintage.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/mllange-the-kiss.jpg
Margaux Lange, The Kiss (sterling silver, plastic and epoxy resin)

See image caption.
Kathleen Browne (US) – ’5 Moments’ brooch -fine & sterling  silver, enamel

« The images used in this series of jewelry pieces are appropriated from a pulp magazine printed during the 1950’s titled Secrets. The magazine photos were overly dramatic and stagy, both tragic and unintentionally comic, but somehow they captured the zeitgeist regarding female transgression. These reconfigured images freeze a moment in the daily drama of our lives and, set as jewels, they serve as paeans to the mundane.
By first manipulating, then converting these images to enamel decals (and firing them onto the surface) I can exploit the historical conventions of enameled portrait miniatures, and, in particular, 18th century decal transfers. Hand-painted enamel portrait miniatures were luxury items but with the development of the decal transfer process, in the mid-18th century, such jewels were affordable to a wider audience. Then as now the enameled image serves to provide a democratized view of time and place. » (Kathleen Browne)

anne donzé - qui a perdu son teton
Anne Donzé (FR) – ‘qui a perdu son teton’ – broche, fonte en argent

Pauline WIERTZ
Pauline WIERTZ (NL) – Bijoux ceramique – Boucles-citrines

33YCx dans Claire LAVENDHOMME (BE)
Yuyen CHANG (Taiwan) – Mao-Fa Series (Untitled Pendant) (2007) copper, enamel, copper wire, sterling silver

Yuyen Chang est cette artiste qui a fait une série de broches sur les « orifices » ………. c’est le moment où jamais de les présenter …. les broches, pas les orifices ……

photo of Orifice Broochphoto of Orifice Broochphoto of Orifice Brooch
Yuyen CHANG (Taiwan) -Orifice Series – Untitled Brooches – copper  – 2000-2002

Claire-Lavendhomme-5-440x271 dans COUP DE COEURClaire-Lavendhomme-1-440x271 dans Diane FALKENHAGEN (US)
Claire Lavendhomme - « Le plus profond c’est la peau » 2007. Bagues – argent, photo, résine, sable.

http://greendragonladyvintage.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/07_06feet.jpg
Melanie Bilenker, ‘Feet’ 2007 – brooch – gold, sterling silver, ebony, resin, pigment and hair

http://www.siennagallery.com/images/exhibitions-main/ek175.jpg
Esther Knobel -brooch- sterling silver with perforated (drilled) drawing sewn with iron wire

[kristenbeeler,+brooch.jpg]Beauty and Other Monsters at Velvet da Vinci Gallery,
Kristin Beeler (US)- brooches – drawing is ink on mother of pearl

http://www.swansea.gov.uk/media/images/c/o/1227.08Aspice_me_1.jpg
Ramon Puig Cuyas (ES) – broche

30300_115589165142911_100000754855215_87157_2798696_n dans Esther KNOBEL (PL)
Sally von Bargen – ‘Short Stories’ serie – ‘wish’

7c dans Gijs BAKKER (NL)6c dans Isabell SCHAUPP (DE)

Isabell Schaupp (DE) ‘hands’ series

 

et… ma dernière « trouvaille » … mais ne dit-on pas qu’on garde le meilleur pour la fin ? ;-)

[gijs.jpg]
Gijs Bakker (NL) – collier ‘Johnny Awakes’ – silver, photography – 1998