EXPO ‘TRACES: Rust, Dust & Belly Button Fluff’ – Kath Libbert Gallery, Saltaire (UK) – 17 Nov. 2011-29 janv. 2012

TRACES: Rust, Dust & Belly Button Fluff – Ten New Graduates finding beauty in hidden places

Traces brings together the work of ten new graduates who find beauty in things brushed aside, in intimate ephemeral moments, in smallness, in lost objects, in things that are hidden and secret; creating jewellery that is in turn delicate, dramatic and distinctive.

Says Kath Libbert,
‘I always find curating the New Graduate Exhibition very exciting. For many collectors, this annual show has become their first sight of work by jewellers who often then go on to become renowned offering a wonderful opportunity to be the first to invest in the talents of the future.’

Rust
Using subtly coloured enamels on copper Nicola Roberson’s brooches explore the ageing process, the way paint chips and metal rusts and the patterns they leave behind. Mirjana Smith’s quirky ‘teapots’ are made of rusting vintage tins sourced from charity shops, boot sales and auctions which she then reassembles into characterful and playful constructions.

Dust
Victoria Kelsey’s ‘Precious Grime’ collection is inspired by the marks and traces of age left behind on forgotten jewellery and where dust and dirt has settled she gold plates, literally transforming dirt into precious trails of ‘Gold dust’!

Belly Button Fluff
Michelle Oh is fascinated by the minutiae of intimate relationships. She takes impressions of her loved ones laughter lines, ‘designer stubble’ and even belly buttons casting them into precious permanent silver jewels which embody the memories attached to those moments. She also offers a bespoke service.

From discarded human hair Kerry Howley weaves the most intricate necklaces which play on the attraction and aversion qualities we attribute to hair, creating beautiful pieces from a material usually swept up and thrown away.

The exhibition also includes work by Samantha Hesford, whose joyfully coloured necklaces look like exotic corals. Nicola Mather’s delicate jewellery is inspired by the ephemera of seedheads, pods and dandelion clocks, while Esme Newdick’s latex collars are decorated with patterns reminiscent of those used for scarification in African tribes. Bryony Stanford’s ‘Crushed’ collection takes inspiration from tin cans, discarded, squashed forms that in her hands are transformed into elegant bangles and brooches. Finally Rachel Jones takes a uniquely personal approach to jewellery collecting emotional stories of lost items of jewellery to inspire fresh pieces which contain ‘Traces’ of the original.

 

Also presenting GLITZ – A Glamorous Christmas Showcase starring Elsa Sarantidou, Greece, Josef Koppmann, Germany/UK,  Kate Wood, UK, and Melanie Ankers , UK. Precious pieces with a twist, from Elsa’s flowing wave inspired rings and bracelets encrusted with sparkling diamonds, sapphires and rubies, to Josef’s bold architectural rings and cufflinks set with the most gorgeous carefully selected gems. Kate’s delicate organic collection of jewellery is inspired by blossoms, berries and barnacles, glistening rich clusters of rubies, sapphires and pearls that cascade elegantly, the perfect adornment for that LBD! And for a touch of total glamour, the new Shimmer collection by Melanie, a myriad of delicate silver strands each tipped in rich 24ct gold is stunning!

 

We hope you can join us from 6pm on Thursday 17th November for the opening, refreshments will be served, and we are offering 15% Discount on any work bought on the opening night!

Nicola Roberson  ‘Valley Road 4’- Brooch enamel on copper

Nicola Roberson is intrigued by the ‘ageing’ process: the way that paint chips, that metal rusts and the patterns it leaves behind. Experimenting with enamels on copper, she creates brooches inspired by photographs that study the natural appearance of rust. She uses the colours and abstract shapes found within these images to inform the surface patterns and form of her work

Victoria Kelsey ‘Precious Grime’ Onyx necklace in Onyx and 18ct gold plate, detail

Michelle Oh ‘Hand’- Brooch in silver and turquoise thread

Michelle Oh is an Indonesian designer/maker based in East London. Her work is often inspired by the quotidian and the commonplace, with a special emphasis on the relationships around her.
In this particular series (We Were Here), textures encountered within a domestic life were moulded and cast into precious permanent copies of the memories attached to them. This is her invitation for you to celebrate the everyday.

Kerry Howley ‘Attraction/Aversion 3’- Necklace in human hair and epoxy resin

Attraction/Aversion is a material exploration of how people can feel seemingly opposing emotional responses simultaneously. The necklaces are made of human hair, a familiar material that we take pride in. However once off of the body hair becomes an innate source of aversion. Kerry wanted to see if she could make discarded hair attractive again. Through the familiar form of a necklace, and using patterns and symmetry that are instinctively pleasing, Kerry Howley has created a delicate balance between the viewer/wearer’s feelings of aversion and attraction.

Bryony Stanford ‘Crushed and Dissected’- Brooch in gold and silver plated copper

Bryony Stanford Gold Black Square Brooch

Bryony Stanford creates unique designs through destructive processes.
In her current body of work she focuses on the relationship between construction and deconstruction.
Simple three-dimensional shapes are transformed into intriguing, intricate wearable objects by forcefully changing their original form.
Bryony works mainly intuitively and enjoys the element of surprise innate to her process.
In contrast to this initial freedom, she pays close attention to the visual connection between the interior and exterior of the work by applying different textures and finishes.

Samantha Hesford Pink Brooch in foam clay with powder coated casting nuggets

Samantha Hesford : « My current body of work has developed by exploring organic shapes, curves of the natural body and repeated elements within design. I have a fascination for non-precious materials particularly those materials that have a tactile quality. I like the idea of jewellery braking out the traditional role using new unusual materials. Playing around with scale challenges me and allows me to create larger scale statement pieces in which to attract the viewers attention.
I explore forms and ideas through making, the softness and curves are appealing aspects of my forms as are the texture, vibrant colour and over all composition. Each of my pieces are made entirely by hand resulting in each piece being completely unique.
I strive to create vibrant, wearable, pieces that attract the viewer’s attention. »

 
Rachel Jones  ‘Spare Scroll Collection’- Earring in gold plated copper with silver earring scrolls

Recently graduated from Middlesex University, Rachel Jones takes a personal approach to jewellery. Interacting with friends, family and often strangers allows Rachel to create sensitive and personal work. Her graduate collection focuses on stories of lost jewellery. Using collected tales of losing jewellery Rachel creates new pieces often involving familiar existing items of jewellery, creating a juxtaposed of the lost, unwanted, functional and the new. 

Nicola Mather ‘Dandelion’- Pin Brooch in stainless steel

Nicola Mather is a designer jeweller maker who specialises in stainless steel structures combined with gemstones and pearls to create delicate, sculptural jewellery which is functional but unique.
The designs are often generated from interests in repetition of a single form and extensive experimentation of material. By combining linear forms with vibrant gemstones Nicola intends to mirror the delicate qualities of organic structures whilst adding her own unique style. The jewellery is beautifully intricate but deceptively resilient combining form and movement.
Nicola’s stainless steel designs can be personalised using precious metals (excluding silver) with various gemstones which are available on a commission basis.
Nicola also produces one-off sterling silver designs which are etched with her own personal prints she develops using collected seeds, mushrooms and pods as a printing tool. For more information please contact the gallery.

Esme Newdick Latex Collar in latex, brass and zinc

Esme Newdick : « I am deeply interested in the Scarification of African Tribes. The intricate nature of the patterns inspired my work and the processes I have explored. I have created a range of collars made out of latex rubber. I utilised the latex as a medium to emulate the skin and to show it does not have to be seen as a ‘fetishist’ material. Through further development of the material, I added powdered metal to create a representation of the patterns of Scarification but also to maintain flexibility in my pieces. The unique combination of these materials allows the metal to react with the latex and this I have been able to manipulate to create different coloration.«  

 

 

Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery
Salts Mill
Saltaire
BD18 3LA
UK
0044 (0)1274 599790
www.kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk
Open Daily 10 – 5.30 Mon – Fri and 10 – 6 Weekends

«Cheveu un bijou !!!» hurle la Dame de Coeur

«!Tranchez-lui la tête!!! Cheveu un bijou!!!» hurle la Dame de Coeur, dans Alice …

mais … faut pas se faire de cheveux dans la vie !! ici, on est à un poil du bijou ….. si ce ne sont pas des bijoux au poil !!

Au-delà du dégoût que peut susciter l’emploi d’un tel matériau (à la « grande époque » du bijou en cheveux, à l’époque Victorienne, mode lancée par la très romantique Reine Victoria, cet engouement eu un grand succès dans les pays anglo-saxons mais suscita du dégoût et un certain rejet en France et dans le reste de l’Europe), ce n’est pas étonnant, à mon sens, qu’il suscite tant d’attrait parmi la jeune génération de bijoutiers : à force d’interroger le rapport du bijou au corps, le corps s’incorpore petit à petit au bijou lui-même.

 

 Tiffany Parbs – Extension (2008) – hand woven hair, digital print – photo Terence Bogue

« Contemporary art is getting hairy Long and silky; short and curly. Blond, brunette, red or grey. It’s hair and it has an important part in our perceptions of ourselves. It defines gender and visual identity, and is playing an important role lately in art — in jewelry, drawings or in mixed media pieces. Hair has long had a role in the work of artists and artisans. In the Victorian era, creating jewelry from hair became almost as popular as knitting or crocheting.  By using one’s own hair or that of a beloved family member women were able to design bracelets, chains, rings and earrings. Apart from jewelry, mourners would weave hair into decorative, memorial wall hangings. By the early 1900s using hair fell out of fashion. During the past 15 years, however, there’s been a fascination among contemporary artists using skin, nail clippings, urine and hair to create various forms of art. Fascinated with Victorian hair jewelry, artist and jewelry designer Melanie Bilenker has revived the art form. Like the Victorians who kept lockets of hair and miniature portraits painted with ground hair and pigment to secure the memory of a lost love, renders the « quiet minutes, the mundane, the domestic, the ordinary moments » from her own tresses. Bilenker observes various daily activities such as cleaning, bathing, dressing, resting or eating. She chronicles the private moments by setting the camera’s timer and goes about her business which can be anything such as eating chocolate, writing a note or enjoying a Saturday morning breakfast. Once she has the photographed images, Bilenker creates tracings of the forms within ghem with thousands of tiny strands of her own hair – which are eventually fixed in resin.  She meticulously layers several different drawings to give the appearance of depth, one as foreground, another as background.  The entire process takes the course of about a week of laying hairs, mixing resin, and then allowing it to cure.  Says Bilenker, « Once the hairs are set as line drawings within resin, I shape, smooth and polish the exterior.  I then fabricate the jewelry findings and set them.  The piece is then complete. »" (Courtesy Melanie Bilenker and Sienna Gallery)

Melanie Bilenker (courtesy of Sienna Gallery) - miniature portraits painted with ground hair

Melanie Bilenker

Each line in these drawings by Melanie Bilenker are made using strands of the artist’s own hair! The delicate drawings depict quiet scenes of domestic life which are sealed in Victorian-inspired brooches and rings.

 Galatée Pestre- Le Sens des Bijoux – Broche ‘Dans le Sens du Poil’ – argent, poils, inox (photo by flavorflavy)

Galatée Pestre- Le Sens des Bijoux – Broche ‘Dans le Sens du Poil’ (detail)

Nicola Scholz  Necklace: Untitled 2006  Pubic hair, gold

Rodrigo Acosta – necklace – pelo natural

Rodrigo Acosta-  « Lo permisivo de tu Dios », 2009.  Pendientes,pelo,latón, plata.  Fotos: Adolfo López  -   El cabello como armar de seducción y poder en el contexto de las distintas religiones a las que el hombre quiere pertenecer.  El pelo y lo prohibido, el pelo y la sabiduría, el pelo y la lujuria, el pelo y lo permisivo de tu Dios

Agnes Larsson, necklace, hair jewelry 2015

Agnes Larsson, necklace, hair jewelry – Remains 9, 2015, necklace, calf skin, aluminum, horse hair, 16 x 9 x 1.25 inches (« Agnes Larsson – Remains » EXHIBITION at Ornamentum gallery  August 8 – September 7, 2015 )

Carolina Hornauer Necklace: The collector 2009 Cotton thread, synthetic cotton, river pearls, silver, patina, steel wire, enamel on cooper, magnets, burned wood, tinted hair, parts constructed, silver ball chain, silver tube textured, stone, silver charcoal (casting piece)

Carla Castiajo -  brooch « Auto Portrait », 2007 – gold, hair

Carla Castiajo   « horror vacui »  « Full of you »   brooch (back) 6 x 5 x 3 cm   Gold, hair

Katie Wightman | Exploring the fragility of the female form. Experiencing hair loss as the result of illness, Katie uses precious metals and human hair to release the stigma and create pieces with a new found sense of beauty and power.

Tiina Rajakallio « Purity » 2008 – human hair

Monika Strasser – Hair Brooch 2012 - Hair, rubber, silver, steel – Series: On Beauty

Maho Takahashi  – “Celebration necklace” Human hair, glue - Central st Martins 2012

Noon Passama – KNOBS – graduate project 2010 – Brooch (“Black Hair Knob” brooch, 2010. Antelope fur, sheepskin, silver.) and Lucia King’s portrait: photography – DAN/NAD

Mielle Harvey – Hair Colored Red: 1998, ca. 14in, human hair, dye, bone (série « city tribal amulets »)

Mielle Harvey – (série « city tribal amulets« ) – Blond Hair and Pearls: 1998, ca. 14in, human hair, pearls, 14k gold

Marie Pendariès - Boucle d’or. Collier. Cheveu et or (gold & hair necklace)

Claire Baloge - « mais, vous avez un poil dans la main ! »  2005  Hair, silver

Claire Baloge - « Mes Tendres Poils »  -  2005 – hair, natural fibers, oxydated copper   

Marie Masson – necklace Cravate 2011, silver, horse hair, ribbon

Marie Masson, France Brooch, Toiletrie 04 Hair transplant, 2013 Latex, horse hair, semolina, leather, 7,5 x 5 cm Leatherwork technics, embroidery, jewellery technics. photo : Marie Masson

Eun Yeong Jeong -’Growth’ from Growth series – copper, wool, wood, horse hair

Farah Bandookwala (UK) redhead neckpiece – silver, fake hair

Farah Bandookwala (UK) « which one are you today ? »  neckpiece – 2007 – silver, fake hair 

Farah Bandookwala (UK) – blue hair brooch

Farah Bandookwala (UK) « platinum » ring

Sandra Buyck - fake hair neckpiece – Sint Lucas Antwerpen School – JOYA 2012

Clémentine Despocq – ‘Vénus’ – Parure de corps/Body ornament – Laiton, cheveux synthétiques/ Brass, synthetic hair  – (AFEDAP ) 2010

Olivia Creber - « Keeping Schtum » – resin, acrylic, brown horse hair – Edinburgh College of Art 2013

Roxane Amirouche  PERSONA – 2012  Masque de nuit  Laiton, cuir retourné, cheveux synthétiques,  Elastique  crédit photo Patricia Lemaire (diplome AFEDAP Paris 2012)

Ana Carolina Escobar (AFEDAP 2012) collier « chez moi chez moi »- cheveux , laiton, film thermopastique, papier

Julia Valle (Bresil) – hairy accessories

Mona Hatoum, Hair Necklace, 1995 – detail « human thoughts may not be what they appear to be at 1st glance, an idea that this necklace, made from the artist’s hair, play with » 

Kadri Mälk (Castle in the Air / ÕhuLoss) Brooch: Lossylong, 2013 Darkened silver, human hair, purple spinelPolly Van der Glas (AU) – hair jewelry – Sterling silver cast human hair plait necklace & Human hair knuckle ring 2008

Polly van der Glas -’red hair neckpiece’ 2008  -oxidised copper, red Human hair, oxidised sterling silver

Polly van der Glas (AU)  -  Since 2005 my work has centered on materials that were once attached to our bodies: human hair, teeth and fingernails. These materials were at one time part of an intimate, elaborate maintenance ritual.

Juan Harnie – (MAD) – Hair (2014) Brooches & necklaces. Resin, human hair, elastic band, silver

Juan Harnie – Hair (2014) Brooches & necklaces. Resin, human hair, elastic band, silver

Nina Khazani, Untitled (« a hairy tale ») – Human hair, gold-plated brass and linen – Royal College of Art 2012 dregree show

Anna Schwamborn, who has worked for Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood and is studying at Central St Martins in London, uses real human hair and human ashes mixed with black bone china. Moxern Mourning Jewellery - Mourning jewelry, bracelet, human cremated ashes mixed with black bone china, human hair, « Wearable body pieces including human material « Morning Objects – The collection of objects contains post-mortem memorial pieces which include aspects of a deceased corpse, namely hair and cremated ashes »

Chiara Cavallo « Disturbs » – my curly hair, nylon tube, thread (Alchimia)

Géraldine Luttenbacher - at « NOIR comme BASALTE » 2015

Sylvia Burgoa -’Raiponce–La Colère’/'Rapunzel–Anger’ – Broche et Collier/Brooch and necklace – Argent, photographies acetate, fil d’or, fil d’argent, cuir/Silver, photographic acetate, gold thread, silver thread, leather – 2010

Francis Willemstijn- Gejaagd door de Wind, Zuiderzeemuseum – 2009 – Collier – Haar (human hair), git, glas, zilver, textiel Collectie Zuiderzeemuseum, Enkhuizen, NL

Francis Willemstijn – bracelet « Hair », from « gone with the wind » – silver, jet, glass, human hair, textile

 Amy Tavern - »Forget Me Not » sterling silver, spray paint, picture of my father, my father’s hair – detail Ana Goalabré – J’aimerais tant passer mes doigts dans tes cheveux – Cheveux et résine – 1997  tous droits réservés.
« Puisant dans la tradition des bijoux en cheveux, matériau depuis longtemps collecté dans des foires et marchés ou dans l’intimité des familles pour devenir parure, Ana Goalabré se joue de cet usage en coupant une de ses mèches et en y taillant une bague qu’elle envoie à un homme accompagnée de la missive «J’aimerais tant passer mes doigts dans tes cheveux». Cette phrase, appel érotique d’un corps d’artiste, devient le titre d’une série déclinant divers contenus aimants et sensuels, traditionnellement gardés jusqu’alors implicites au nom d’une morale et d’une bienséance rigoureuse et qui tout à coup semblent avoir gagné le droit de dire clairement le désir, qu’il s’agisse de celui d’une mère, d’un père, d’une amante, d’un amant… et ce dans toute sa trivialité. Pourtant, il n’y a aucune charge obscène dans ces bagues. Qu’elles soient très travaillées ou reprennent le mouvement naturel d’une mèche de cheveux, elles nous renvoient à nos jeux tactiles dans les cheveux de l’autre, en fixant le mouvement, image arrêtée puis détachée du corps pour n’en garder que la sensation. »
(Monique Manoha – Actes du colloque international Projections : des organes hors du corps (13-14 octobre 2006)

Rickson Salkeld – I am interested in the feminine ideal in relation to the female body.  I enjoy creating work that expresses my wish to both conform and  rebel against ideas of femininity. Through various materials and  processes I take from my own body both physically and metaphorically.  Hair can be used to comment on feminine allure and power, while  clear resin is used to symbolize an abundance of tears

 Azahara Santoro  (EASD Valencia 2012) -   bagues avec cheveux (rings with hair)  –
Tricomotealcyalgenfobia- Miedo irracional al pelo de las mariposas de coral plateado. Piezas unicas

Maria Ignacia Walker – MFA JEWELLERY AND BODY ORNAMENTS Alchimia contemporary jewellerySchool 2013 – 2015 –   A simple fact of life that María Ignacia Walker obsesses over: The shedding of hair. The obsession – losing them, collecting them, ordering them, measuring them and archiving them. The desire – to preserve these losses – It gives rise to “transcendieron”.  The discourse is not about beauty and it is not about sensuality, not even about cultural symbols that hair carries.  How much hair do you lose constantly, everyday ? How many pieces grow out of your body and die every moment ?  “The transcendents” are a homage to the moments when you lose your hair. Captured and immortalized in the fragility of the porcelain, they give perpetuity and freeze all their expressions in the moment of their detachment from the body. With a threading method, the artist uses horsehair as connectors. They show the lightness, energy and freedom, while demonstrating the real, natural movement of the hair. Together with the act of keeping and protecting the hair in a porcelain form, they are given another life that keeps them present through their absence.

Maria Ignacia Walker  – 2015 – TRASCENDIERON – Materials: Porcelain / Horsehair / Resin / Gold thread/ Gold

María Ignacia Walker  – 2015 – TRASCENDIERON

María Ignacia Walker  – 2015 – TRASCENDIERON

Maria Ignacia Walker – 2015 – TRASCENDIERON – Necklace-object, 28 x 45 cm, porcelain, horse hair and resin Photo by Marcos Bucco, courtesy of the artist

Maria Ignacia Walker – 2015 – TRASCENDIERON – necklace (detail)

Sébastien Carré – collection Hair Landscape – 2016 broche (bijoux réalisés pour une collaboration avec le blogger Cut by Fred )

MARION DELARUE — « Mania » – Traditional korean lacquer, korean hair. 2011 « During my stay in South Korea, I was struck by Korean ladies’ habits of playing with their hair fringes. As soon as they had the chance they would roll up their hair by making it slide between their forefinger and their middle finger and then pull on it softly. Since I was often bored during such long classes taught in a language I don’t understand, I spent time observing the students… »

Dionea Rocha Watt Pendant: Protection Locket, 2006 Silver, human hair 3.1 x 5.5 cm Piece for section History, Memory, Tradition (at  « Think Twice: New Latin American Jewellery » 2010-2011)

Dionea Rocha Watt (Brazil) – locket/hair

Raluca Buzura’s collection, “Hairy Tales” comes out of an imaginary world and it’s a combination of new materials such as polymeric rubber, pumice, artificial leather and artificial hair.  
at Autor 2015 – 7 – 8 November | Sala Dalles | Bucharest

Salome Lippuner  Neckpiece: Kin Kanshitsu 2008  Black and natural coloured Urushi on hemp-cloth,gold-leaves,horse tail hair  15 x 10 cm

REBECCA HANNON-USA Collier  Crin de cheval

REBECCA HANNON-USA -USA  Nest,Horse Hair Twist

AOI KOTSUHIROI - hair neckpiece – cabello humano en conjunto con piedras y pequeños cráneos

AOI KOTSUHIROI - hair neckpiece - cabello humano en conjunto con piedras y pequeños cráneos

 Aoi Kotsuhiroi Horse hair, horn, urushi lacquer and buffalo leather Vika Mayzel  (IL) – necklace (silver,wood,fur,leather)   Out of Cage vikamayzel.com

Lauren Passenti, « Cleaning Fish on a Sunday Morning » wrist piece, 2009, sterling silver, horse hair, 8 inches diameter

Eunmi Chun, zebra, 2011, brooch, small intestine of cow, silver, human hair, gold leaf, 120 x 40 x 75 mm, photo: artist

 Brooch by Eun Mi Chun: Giraffe 2011 23 x 8 x 9 cm. Human hair, gold leaf, small intestine of cow, seeds, silver

 

voir également les bijoux de Kerry Howley :

Decouverte : Kerry HOWLEY – Human hair as jewellery

Kerry Howley human hair jewelry

Kerry Howley Attraction/Aversion is a material exploration of how people can feel seemingly opposing emotional responses simultaneously. The necklaces are made of human hair, a familiar material that we take pride in. However once off of the body hair becomes an innate source of aversion.

 

 

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Decouverte : Kerry HOWLEY – Human hair as jewellery

 Human hair as jewellery: would you wear it?

As a newly graduated art student, it’s important to discover your niche, and London based jewellery designer Kerry Howley has certainly found hers. Hair. Yes, human hair. Now, in my book jewellery and hair are words that should only be combined with a sentence using ‘tangled’, right? I would certainly not expect ‘made of’ to be the connective anyway. But what was I saying about pushing boundaries, for Howell’s graduate project was just that. As a series of 5 striking necklaces, with delicate lace-like aesthetics, the pieces were made entirely from human hair. Taking inspiration from Damask wallpaper patterns, the artist used broken saw blades to cut and weave the tresses into abstract shapes to elegantly adorn the neck. Spending a thorough 60 hours on each piece, there’s no arguing the pieces qualify as couture, it’s just usually we don’t find couture so creepy.