Des P’tits trous, encore des p’tits trous ….

« Des P’tits trous, encore des p’tits trous ….
des p’tits trous, des p’tits trous, toujours des p’tits trous
Des trous d’seconde classe
Des trous d’première classe »
(« le poinçonneur des Lilas » – Serge Gainsbourg)

  Mathilde QUINCHEZ  Pendentif Elytre –
Son travail sera exposé pendant les « Circuits Bijoux » à L’age d’or  26, rue du Docteur Magnan 75013 Paris  Du 17 au 20 Octobre 2013

Monika Brugger broche

Monika Brugger – Fragile – brooch – silver

Haruka Oe -silver ring 2007

Haruka Oe -silver ring 2007

Rossella Cigognetti Tornquist Brooch (detail) Her work is particularly inspired by natural elements: surfaces like bark, wood, or structural elements from the animal kingdom, such as animal bones

Nevin Arig  Brooch: Return to the roots 2009  Chiseled silver, coral, pearl, gold halite

Sara Bran – using lace techniques with gold  

Julie Blyfield  Brooch: Shell 2011  Sterling silver

Leanne Ryan  (Perth, Western Australia)  Training and Further Education (TAFE) Central, Perth.  Brooch  Fine Silver, Sterling Silver, Raw silk cocoons, Seed pearls.  Approx. W 5.5cm x H 4cm  Photographer: Matt Reed

Leanne Ryan -Pendant  Sterling Silver, Heishi ‘Vulcanite’ Trade Beads, Raw silk cocoons – cut & edges dyed, silk cord.  Approx. diam. 6cm

Ursula Woerner – 2te heimat    

Ángela Bermúdez « Contigo & disancia » fermall/brooch

(recién graduada por la EASD de Valencia,  es portada en el blog Des del Sud con sus piezas de Proyecto Final del CFGS de Joyería, dirigido por la profesora Heidi Schechinger, en el curso 2011/2012)

Ángela Bermúdez (serie Turismo de interior)

Angela Bermudez (Viruthiers) ‘Media Pension’ broche 2012, plata

Angela Bermudez (Viruthiers) « Final de Trayecto » broche 2012, plata

Trinidad Contreras (BORAX08001)

Trinidad Contreras Brooch  (BORAX08001)

Trinidad Contreras brooch

Dana Hakim My Four Guardian Angels Brooch

Anya Pinchuk – Bloomington, Indiana  – silver brooch

Patricia Nowogrodski,  1001 Nights Brooch, Cooper, Black Oxide, Zircon.

Vera Siemund, necklace, 2011, enamelled steeldrilled, sawn, embossed, enamelled, mounted – 220 x 260 x 35 mm – steel hemispheres, red enamelled inside, drilled pattern   sawn portrait

Deganit Stern-Schocken  Necklace 2012  Silver, stainless steel, polystyrene

Eric De Gesincourt  earrings   from a ping pong ball

Dana Hakim, « My Four Guardian Angels, The Blue Series », Brooch 02, 2012         Iron, black mirrored plastic, cotton threads, paint, lacquer. 250X180X20 mm (from Bezalel Academy)

Lebanese designer Malaika Najem‘s Child Soldier collection

Malaika Najem – detail

Marjorie Simon First Thoughts on Miami Foliage Neckpiece

Maya Kini  

Julie Usel. Tear me Apart. 69 rings in copper: 1 in silver, ring box   

Romi Bukovec – wood – painted (several times) and brushed

Liangchao Shao (China)   – experiment : necklace – straws (BIAD)

EXPO ‘FERROUS’ – Velvet da Vinci Gallery, San Francisco (US) – 1er Mars-14 Avril 2013

FERROUS | Velvet da Vinci Contemporary Art Jewelry and Sculpture Gallery | San Francisco -

March 1 – April 14, 2013

(David Choi bracelet)

Jewelry in a New Iron Age by 60 International Artists

Velvet da Vinci San Francisco exhibition
March 1 – April 14, 2013
Artists’ reception Friday, March 1, 2013 from 6 to 8 p.m.

FERROUS, an exhibition of jewelry using iron, steel, and steel alloys. Although the use of iron dates back more than two thousand years, this humble material is more commonly used for agriculture and industrial purposes than adornment. A significant exception is the Berlin Iron Jewelry of the early 19th century. The Prussian Royal family funded the uprising against Napoleon by encouraging wealthy citizens to exchange their precious gold and silver for intricately fabricated iron jewelry.Intricacy is just one aspect the 60 artists of FERROUS explore with this versatile material. Known for its strength and lightness, the steel and iron jewelry of FERROUS is both rusty and shiny, sheet and wire, bejeweled and modest. The exhibition will take place simultaneously at Velvet da Vinci Gallery in San Francisco and as a virtual exhibition at crafthaus online. In May FERROUS will travel to 18Karat Gallery in Toronto, Canada as part of The Society of North American Goldsmith’s annual conference.

 

 

Participating artists:
Nanz Aalund, USA –  Anne Achenbach, Germany –  Dauvit Alexander, Scotland –  Talya Baharal, USA –  Michael Berger, Germany –  Lisa Bjorke, Sweden –  Aaron Bray, USA –  Elizabeth Callinicos, UK –  Melissa Cameron, USA/Australia –  David Choi, USA –  Kat Cole, USA –  Dialogue Collective, UK –  Andy Cooperman, USA –  Donna D’Aquino, USA –  Jaclyn Davidson, USA –  Ann Catrin Evans, Wales –  Maureen Faye-Chauhan, Australia –  Fekete Réka, NL –  Mirla Fernandes, Brazil –  Peg Fetter, USA –  Rebekah Frank, USA –  Motoko Furuhashi, USA –  Susie Ganch, USA –  Elliot Gaskin, USA –  Janna Gregonis, USA –  Dana Hakim, Israel –  Masako Hamaguchi, UK –  Tom Hill, USA/UK –  Heejin Hwang, USA –  Rob Jackson, USA –  Mary Frisbee Johnson, USA –  Lisa Juen Sinnott, USA –  Satomi Kawai, USA –  Maya Kini, USA –  Amy Klainer, USA –  Jenny Laidlaw, UK –  Lorena Lazard, Mexico –  Roxy Lentz, USA –  Timothy Information Limited, UK –  Kasja Lindberg, Sweden –  Tara Locklear, USA –  Sarah Loertscher, USA –  Drew Markou, UK –  Judy McCaig, Spain/Scotland –  Lindy McSwan, Australia –  Chris Nelson, USA –  Iker Ortiz, Mexico –  Claudio Pino, Canada –  Jo Pond, UK –  Suzanne Pugh, USA –  Meghan Patrice Riley, USA –  Mackenzie Sala, USA –  Natasha Seedorf, USA –  Sondra Sherman, USA –  Marjorie Simon, USA –  Melissa Stiles, USA –  Barbara Stutman, Canada –  Tore Svensson, Sweden –  Sarah West, USA –  Katie Wright, UK

Donna D’Aquino : Red/Black Necklace

 Helen Shirk: Neckpiece

Alexander Dauvit : Three Post-Apocalyptic Cocktail Rings

David Choi Brooch

Maureen Faye-Chauhan: Stainless steel Octahedral brooch

Sarah West – Coney Island/RCA Brooch

Susie Ganch : Pendant

Mirla Fernandes Eu sou a medida II/Fe (I am the measure/Fe) Necklace

Drew Markou Rust and Space Brooch #1

Tara Locklear – Faux Real KJ Lane Replica Earrings

Marjorie Simon First Thoughts on Miami Foliage Neckpiece

Sondra Sherman Study Valeriana Brooch

Barbara Stutman Boutonniere #11

Jennifer Laidlaw No use in crying over spilt milk Necklace (detail)

Lindy McSwan Day 7 NYC v2.1 and v1.2 Brooches

Dana Hakim My Four Guardian Angels Brooch

Meghan Patrice Riley Interstitial II Necklace

Kat Cole 405 Summit Catalog of Belongings Neckpiece

Kat Cole The Land Below – Winter Neckpiece

Sarah Loertscher Structure Neckpiece #13

Amy Klainer Safety Chain Necklace

Suzanne Pugh Brooch

Roxy Lentz Neckpiece

 Lisa Bjorke Frigg Brooch

Reka Fekete Juggling Brooch

 Lisa Juen I Make You Look Successful Brooch/Neckpiece

 Claudio Pino INOX Reverie Ring

Michael Berger Kinetic Ring

Motoko Furuhashi – Sentiment Brooch

Timothy Information Limited -  Gone Brooch

EXPO ‘Surface and Substance’ – Electrum Gallery, London (UK) – 7 Oct.-5 Nov. 2011

 Surface and Substance

International contemporary enamel jewellery  – Curated by Jessica Turrell

 

Part I: 7th October to 5th November 2011 at Electrum

Over the last few years there has been a significant revival of interest in enamel with a number of contemporary jewellers developing new ways of working with enamel that enable them to create exciting and innovative work.

This exhibition showcases the work of thirty jewellers of international standing who, through a varied set of practices, take enamel well beyond its traditional boundaries.

The title, Surface and Substance, has been chosen to emphasize that while this is clearly an exhibition that focuses on the use of vitreous enamel – the surface – of equal importance is the ‘substance’ that underpins the work on display; the thinking and the research, which along with the obvious material knowledge and skill, is evident in the striking and individual pieces on show.

Artists on show at Electrum:
Ralph Bakker — Carola Bauer — Patrizia Bonati — Stephen Bottomley — Kathleen Browne — Lydia Feast — Karin Johansson — Jutta Klingebiel — Ann Little — Nazan Pak — Jacqueline Ryan — Marjorie Simon — Silke Trekel — Jessica Turrell

 

Carola Bauer necklace – Silver, enamel, gold- 2009

Carola Bauer necklace – Silver, enamel

Patrizia BONATI - earring/brooch – 2003 – gold, white enamel

Patrizia BONATI - Brooch – Gold 18 Kt, white enamel

Stephen Bottomley – neckpiece ‘Yellow Drape’, Drape series 2007 – Steel, enamel 480 x 384 mm – photo. John K McGregor

Lydia Feast- ‘Chaos’ series – Vitreous enamel and white metal brooch

Marjorie Simon  (Gallery Loupe)

Nazan Pak - Foam brooches

Silke Trekel -  ‘Branching Out’  Brooch,  2010 -  chased iron, enamelled  (from ‘Spatial Structures’ exhibition)

Jacqueline Ryan 18kt gold and vitreous enamel brooch

Kathleen Browne- Double Trouble, brooch, 2002 -  fine and Sterling silver, vitreous enamel, plexiglas

Jessica Turrell – Brooch (THE ENAMEL SHOW -Velvet da Vinci Gallery)

 

 

Part II: 14th October to 12th November at Contemporary Applied Arts
Artists on show at CAA, 14 October – 12 November 2011:
Jamie Bennett, Stacey Bentley, Jessica Calderwood, Adrean Bloomard, Helen Carnac, Bettina Dittlmann, Susie Ganch, Christine Graf, Carolina Gimeno, Ike Junger, Kaori Juzu, Esther Knoble, Liana Pattihis, Isabell Schaupp, Vera Siemund, Elizabeth Turrell, Jessica Turrell, Annamaria Zanella

 

 

Electrum Gallery
21 South Molton Street
London
W1K 5QZ
Tel: [phone]

 

Innovation in ENAMEL jewelry – Research project by Jessica Turrell

The Innovation in Enamel Jewellery database is one of the outcomes of the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC)  funded three-year fellowship Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surfaces for Jewellery.

As part of the research project extensive research was undertaken to identify a group of internationally prominent contemporary jewellers whose practice demonstrates an open and innovative approach to the use of enamel. When complete the database will feature images and supporting information on the work of approximately 30 artists. The aim of the database is to highlight the potential of enamel as an expressive and contemporary medium as well as serving as an important research tool.

The database, which is fully searchable, focuses exclusively on enamel jewellery and complements the existing archive ICVEA (International Contemporary Vitreous Enamel Archive) that is also hosted by the University of the West of England and which includes a broad range of contemporary enamel work.

Currently the database features the work of the following artists:
Carola Bauer – Germany
Jamie Bennett – USA
Stacey Bentley – UK
Patrizia Bonati – Italy
Stephen Bottomley – UK
Jessica Calderwood – USA
Lydia Feast – UK
Mirjam Hiller – Germany
Ike Junger – Germany
Kaori Juzu – Denmark
Ann Little – UK
Lianna Pattihis – UK
Jacqueline Ryan – Italy
Isabell Schaupp – Germany
Vera Siemund – The Netherlands
Marjorie Simon – USA
Elizabeth Turrell – UK
Jessica Turrell – UK
Annamaria Zanella – Italy
The following artist will be added in early autumn 2010:
Jennaca Davies – USA
Carolina Gimeno – Spain
Christine Graf – Germany
Sangeun Kim – UK
Natalia Pinchuck – USA
Barbara Seidenath – USA

 Jessica Turrell

 

 

 Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surfaces in Jewellery

(UWE – University of the West England – Bristol – AHRC (Arts and Humanities Research Council) Vitreous Enamel Research Project)

Awarding body: Arts and Humanities Research Council
Awarded to: Jessica Turrell
Project duration: 1.09.2007 – 31.08.2010

introduction:
The research project is based on the premise that there is huge and largely unexplored potential for innovation within the field of enamelled jewellery. By taking both a practice-led and theoretical approach the aim of the project has been to identify factors that might hinder innovation and present a series of alternative approaches that encourage a more experimental and open-minded approach to enamel.

Research Context
The practical aspects of the research project were underpinned by theoretical and contextual research into the place of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice. This included a wide-ranging visual and literature survey. Web-based research combined with a series of visits to individual practitioners in the USA and Europe as well as to significant exhibitions and collections in Europe, the UK and USA, provided a broad overview of current enamel jewellery practice. This contextual research led to the identification of a number of contemporary jewellers for whom enamel forms a significant part of their practice. A methodology was developed by which the output of these jewellers was analyzed and then allocated to one of three distinct categories. These were as follows:

Skilled (fine) – broadly work that concentrates on traditional enamelling techniques to create work for a mainstream or commercial market.

New – where the work itself engages with contemporary ideas but where enamel is used simply to add a paint-like layer of colour to the surface of the piece using only basic techniques.

Innovative – where the two practices overlap and the artist is able to demonstrate both a k

A selected group of individuals, identified through this process as falling into the Innovative category, were then invited to submit images and supporting written material to the new Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surfaces in Jewellery database that operates alongside (and is complimentary to) the existing International Contemporary Vitreous Enamel Archive (ICVEA) currently held by the Enamel Research Unit at the University of the West of England, Bristol.

Link to Innovation in Enamel Jewellery database

The contextual and theoretical aspects of the project are examined in depth in an article for Craft Research entitled Surface and Substance – a call for the fusion of skill and ideas in contemporary enamel jewellery.
The article is available online at the following site: craft research journal online

Discussion Forum
A variety of approaches have been taken in order to stimulate debate and comment regarding the place of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice. The first of these was a discussion forum entitled ‘Innovation in Enamel’ which has involved a number of internationally prominent enamel artists all of whom demonstrate a non-traditional approach to their enamel practice. The central aim of this forum has been to highlight the potential of enamel as an innovative medium and to stimulate debate about the aesthetic, conceptual and practical considerations that govern the use of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice. The forum has operated as a members’ only project, meaning that the site can only be accessed by registered members and they alone are able to view the content and submit comment. The rational for this was to encourage those involved to freely discuss their ideas without the constraints of operating within a public arena.

Selected extracts and a summary of the discussions threads can be accessed here.

In addition to the forum site, Jessica has initiated a discussion strand -‘Surface and substance: the place of enamel in contemporary jewellery practice’, which appears on the International Art Jewellery Online Community, Klimt02 – www.klimt02.net/blogs

These two discussion strands have informed the written and theoretical aspects of the research and the production of a number of case studies.
Case Studies
The case studies feature artists who were chosen as representative of a broad and diverse range of approaches to enamel :

Stephen Bottomley, Yellow Drape Neckpiece, Laser-cut steel and enamel -(Photo: John K. McGregor)

Liana Pattihis, Coral Red Snake Chain Brooch 2009

Isabell Schaupp, Brooch, Enamel, copper, silver, 2009

Christine Graf, 2010

In order to 

promote innovative enamel jewellery to the widest possible audience Jessica is currently curating a significant international exhibition that will feature a group of jewellers identified for their innovative use of enamel. The show will begin its tour at Contemporary Applied Arts in London in late 2011, and will then travel to a number of venues across the UK including to the Ruthin Craft Centre in Wales.

Practical and Technical Research

The focus of the practical element of the research has been an investigation into the use of innovative and experimental enamelling techniques in the production of contemporary jewellery. Methods and approaches more usually associated with large-scale and panel enamelling and industrial processes have been adapted for use in wearable pieces. This investigation is supported by the development of a range of techniques that allow for the creation of three-dimensional forms that can be successfully enamelled.
The practical and technical aspects of the research fall into two main categories, these are the production of three-dimensional forms capable of being enamelled in the round and the development of enamelling techniques suitable for application to these three-dimensional forms.

Three-dimensional form trials

Initial research involved investigations into the use of three-dimensional forms created using traditional forming, construction and joining methods. The most commonly used joining technique is the use of high melting-point (or hard) silver solders. The received wisdom is that it is not possible to enamel directly over a soldered joint as the solder will discolour the overlying enamel and can in some cases cause it to come away from the soldered joint. In order to test this theory, extensive investigations were undertaken into the use of a group of silver alloy solders, which were tested for their stability and the effect that they had on the subsequent layer of fired enamel.

Although some solders gave better results than others they all visibly interfered with the enamel they were directly in contact with in some way.

As an alternative to the use of solders, fusion and laser welding were investigated. Both these methods use high levels of accurately directed heat to achieve a fused joint that does not require any additional solder. Although, to differing degrees, both of these techniques created a satisfactory join over which enamel could successfully be applied without too many problems the equipment required was not easily accessible, required outside assistance and was expensive to trial. For these reasons this avenue of research was not pursued.
It seemed that a seam free object should prove the ideal form over which to apply the enamel. There are a number of small-scale silver and copper-smithing techniques that can be employed to raise a seam-free hollow form from a flat sheet of meta,l but such methods are technically demanding and particularly difficult on a small scale. Thus this avenue of research was also rejected. Instead, the technique of electroforming seemed to offer a versatile and accessible method for the creation of 3D forms, and it became clear that a detailed investigation of the technique would prove to be the most productive strand of research.

To this end bespoke electroforming equipment was researched, designed, and built, and a series of tests undertaken. Research and trials were carried out to establish the most suitable materials and methods of production of base forms upon which metal might be deposited during the electroforming process.

Discussions took place with colleagues from the 3D Research Laboratory within the CFPR into the possibilities of creating mandrels using rapid prototyping techniques, and the indicative trials that were carried out to ascertain the suitability of the RP process to create electroforming mandrels and the potential for the medium with which the object is printed both to withstand the process and be easily removed as a core prior to enamelling. As a direction for further research these initial trials hold a lot of promise.
This collaborative strand of research was documented in a poster presentation given during the IMPACT 7 conference in 2009.

In order for the electroforming process to occur it is necessary that the surface of the object to be electroformed is able to conduct an electrical current. As a number of non-conductive materials had been identified as appropriate to this research it was therefore necessary to undertake a further series of trails to establish the most suitable electro-conductive coatings for the purposes of the project.

The final experiments in the production of the underlying electroforms was to trial all the variable of the electroforming process itself to establish the best method for the creation of a smooth and stable form of an appropriate surface and structure that would withstand the application of enamel.

Enamelling trials
In order to develop methods for the application of enamel to the three-dimensional forms resulting from the first strand of investigation, a comprehensive series of tests for the application and adhesion of jewellery and industrial enamel to two and 3D surfaces was undertaken. Stilting and firing methods for 3D objects enamelled in the round were also investigated. Methodology for the recording of technical tests has been developed and trialed and a standardized format has been developed, informed by these trials, which has been used to record the results of all tests undertaken.

Practical Outcomes
On completion of the practical trials a group of jewellery pieces were created using the methods established as most appropriate in the realization of a defined personal aesthetic. These pieces were exhibited at Contemporary Applied Art in London during June and July 2010.

Jessica Turrell- Electroformed and enamelled pendants

Jessica Turrell- Electroformed and enamelled pendants

 

Dissemination
The practical and theoretical outcomes of the project were disseminated by a number of methods throughout the period of the research.

symposium:
A symposium was held at the Bower Ashton Campus, University of the West of England in July 2010:
Read a review of the symposium here – http://www.iom3.org/news/enamoured-enamel

SUMMARY:
Addressing an audience composed of professional makers, academics, researchers and students the symposium examined the place of enamel within contemporary jewellery practice, celebrating its potential as an exciting and innovative material. At a time when increasing numbers of contemporary jewellers are rediscovering enamel this event offered a timely opportunity for the sharing of information and ideas plus a chance to network and take part in debate.

 

Conclusion
The ultimate aim of the project has been to demonstrate the potential of enamel as an exciting and innovative material and to thus affect a change in the commonly held perception that enamel is a medium not readily associated with contemporary jewellery practice. It is anticipated that the dissemination of the outcomes of the research project Innovation in Vitreous Enamel Surface for Jewellery will go some way towards the creation of an environment where the innovative potential of the material is more widely recognized, both by the jewellery community and within art education, thus allowing a more ambitious and rigorous enamel practice to flourish.

 

Visit the CAA exhibition page at http://www.caa.org.uk/exhibitions/archive

Jessica Turrell

« The intimate scale of jewellery is a central factor in my practice. I strive to create work that has a tactile delicacy and that rewards the wearers close attention with an intricate and detailed surface. Over recent years I have developed an experimental approach to enamel by which I seek to create work that moves away from traditional jewellery enamel practice in order to achieve a more ambiguous and expressive surface quality. » (Jessica Turrell)

Exhibitions 2010 – Showcasing a New Collection of Enamel Jewellery :  18 June – 17 July 2010, London

 

Elizabeth Turrell – cross Badges (exhibition « The Enamel Experience », Velvet da Vinci Gallery, 2008)