TRACES: Rust, Dust & Belly Button Fluff – Ten New Graduates finding beauty in hidden places
Traces brings together the work of ten new graduates who find beauty in things brushed aside, in intimate ephemeral moments, in smallness, in lost objects, in things that are hidden and secret; creating jewellery that is in turn delicate, dramatic and distinctive.
Says Kath Libbert,
‘I always find curating the New Graduate Exhibition very exciting. For many collectors, this annual show has become their first sight of work by jewellers who often then go on to become renowned offering a wonderful opportunity to be the first to invest in the talents of the future.’
Using subtly coloured enamels on copper Nicola Roberson’s brooches explore the ageing process, the way paint chips and metal rusts and the patterns they leave behind. Mirjana Smith’s quirky ‘teapots’ are made of rusting vintage tins sourced from charity shops, boot sales and auctions which she then reassembles into characterful and playful constructions.
Victoria Kelsey’s ‘Precious Grime’ collection is inspired by the marks and traces of age left behind on forgotten jewellery and where dust and dirt has settled she gold plates, literally transforming dirt into precious trails of ‘Gold dust’!
Belly Button Fluff
Michelle Oh is fascinated by the minutiae of intimate relationships. She takes impressions of her loved ones laughter lines, ‘designer stubble’ and even belly buttons casting them into precious permanent silver jewels which embody the memories attached to those moments. She also offers a bespoke service.
From discarded human hair Kerry Howley weaves the most intricate necklaces which play on the attraction and aversion qualities we attribute to hair, creating beautiful pieces from a material usually swept up and thrown away.
The exhibition also includes work by Samantha Hesford, whose joyfully coloured necklaces look like exotic corals. Nicola Mather’s delicate jewellery is inspired by the ephemera of seedheads, pods and dandelion clocks, while Esme Newdick’s latex collars are decorated with patterns reminiscent of those used for scarification in African tribes. Bryony Stanford’s ‘Crushed’ collection takes inspiration from tin cans, discarded, squashed forms that in her hands are transformed into elegant bangles and brooches. Finally Rachel Jones takes a uniquely personal approach to jewellery collecting emotional stories of lost items of jewellery to inspire fresh pieces which contain ‘Traces’ of the original.
Also presenting GLITZ – A Glamorous Christmas Showcase starring Elsa Sarantidou, Greece, Josef Koppmann, Germany/UK, Kate Wood, UK, and Melanie Ankers , UK. Precious pieces with a twist, from Elsa’s flowing wave inspired rings and bracelets encrusted with sparkling diamonds, sapphires and rubies, to Josef’s bold architectural rings and cufflinks set with the most gorgeous carefully selected gems. Kate’s delicate organic collection of jewellery is inspired by blossoms, berries and barnacles, glistening rich clusters of rubies, sapphires and pearls that cascade elegantly, the perfect adornment for that LBD! And for a touch of total glamour, the new Shimmer collection by Melanie, a myriad of delicate silver strands each tipped in rich 24ct gold is stunning!
We hope you can join us from 6pm on Thursday 17th November for the opening, refreshments will be served, and we are offering 15% Discount on any work bought on the opening night!
Nicola Roberson ‘Valley Road 4’- Brooch enamel on copper
Nicola Roberson is intrigued by the ‘ageing’ process: the way that paint chips, that metal rusts and the patterns it leaves behind. Experimenting with enamels on copper, she creates brooches inspired by photographs that study the natural appearance of rust. She uses the colours and abstract shapes found within these images to inform the surface patterns and form of her work
Victoria Kelsey ‘Precious Grime’ Onyx necklace in Onyx and 18ct gold plate, detail
Michelle Oh ‘Hand’- Brooch in silver and turquoise thread
Michelle Oh is an Indonesian designer/maker based in East London. Her work is often inspired by the quotidian and the commonplace, with a special emphasis on the relationships around her.
In this particular series (We Were Here), textures encountered within a domestic life were moulded and cast into precious permanent copies of the memories attached to them. This is her invitation for you to celebrate the everyday.
Kerry Howley ‘Attraction/Aversion 3’- Necklace in human hair and epoxy resin
Attraction/Aversion is a material exploration of how people can feel seemingly opposing emotional responses simultaneously. The necklaces are made of human hair, a familiar material that we take pride in. However once off of the body hair becomes an innate source of aversion. Kerry wanted to see if she could make discarded hair attractive again. Through the familiar form of a necklace, and using patterns and symmetry that are instinctively pleasing, Kerry Howley has created a delicate balance between the viewer/wearer’s feelings of aversion and attraction.
Bryony Stanford ‘Crushed and Dissected’- Brooch in gold and silver plated copper
Bryony Stanford Gold Black Square Brooch
Bryony Stanford creates unique designs through destructive processes.
In her current body of work she focuses on the relationship between construction and deconstruction.
Simple three-dimensional shapes are transformed into intriguing, intricate wearable objects by forcefully changing their original form.
Bryony works mainly intuitively and enjoys the element of surprise innate to her process.
In contrast to this initial freedom, she pays close attention to the visual connection between the interior and exterior of the work by applying different textures and finishes.
Samantha Hesford Pink Brooch in foam clay with powder coated casting nuggets
Samantha Hesford : « My current body of work has developed by exploring organic shapes, curves of the natural body and repeated elements within design. I have a fascination for non-precious materials particularly those materials that have a tactile quality. I like the idea of jewellery braking out the traditional role using new unusual materials. Playing around with scale challenges me and allows me to create larger scale statement pieces in which to attract the viewers attention.
I explore forms and ideas through making, the softness and curves are appealing aspects of my forms as are the texture, vibrant colour and over all composition. Each of my pieces are made entirely by hand resulting in each piece being completely unique.
I strive to create vibrant, wearable, pieces that attract the viewer’s attention. »
Rachel Jones ‘Spare Scroll Collection’- Earring in gold plated copper with silver earring scrolls
Recently graduated from Middlesex University, Rachel Jones takes a personal approach to jewellery. Interacting with friends, family and often strangers allows Rachel to create sensitive and personal work. Her graduate collection focuses on stories of lost jewellery. Using collected tales of losing jewellery Rachel creates new pieces often involving familiar existing items of jewellery, creating a juxtaposed of the lost, unwanted, functional and the new.
Nicola Mather ‘Dandelion’- Pin Brooch in stainless steel
Nicola Mather is a designer jeweller maker who specialises in stainless steel structures combined with gemstones and pearls to create delicate, sculptural jewellery which is functional but unique.
The designs are often generated from interests in repetition of a single form and extensive experimentation of material. By combining linear forms with vibrant gemstones Nicola intends to mirror the delicate qualities of organic structures whilst adding her own unique style. The jewellery is beautifully intricate but deceptively resilient combining form and movement.
Nicola’s stainless steel designs can be personalised using precious metals (excluding silver) with various gemstones which are available on a commission basis.
Nicola also produces one-off sterling silver designs which are etched with her own personal prints she develops using collected seeds, mushrooms and pods as a printing tool. For more information please contact the gallery.
Esme Newdick Latex Collar in latex, brass and zinc
Esme Newdick : « I am deeply interested in the Scarification of African Tribes. The intricate nature of the patterns inspired my work and the processes I have explored. I have created a range of collars made out of latex rubber. I utilised the latex as a medium to emulate the skin and to show it does not have to be seen as a ‘fetishist’ material. Through further development of the material, I added powdered metal to create a representation of the patterns of Scarification but also to maintain flexibility in my pieces. The unique combination of these materials allows the metal to react with the latex and this I have been able to manipulate to create different coloration.«
Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery
0044 (0)1274 599790
Open Daily 10 – 5.30 Mon – Fri and 10 – 6 Weekends