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EXPO ‘Forming Words’ – Flow Gallery (UK) – 14 Fevr-17 Mai 2013

Forming Words

14 February – 17 May 2013Forming Words - Flow


Text forms part of our daily lives. Road signs, headlines and advertisement communicate with people without making a sound. In perhaps more thoughtful text, words enclosed in novels, type in a newspaper article or the verse of a poem can be a source of deep inspiration.
Flow’s forthcoming exhibition Forming Words is based on how form and structure can be inspired by text. Flow has asked selected artists to create new work based on a piece of writing of their choice, from poetry to a letter to lyrics. Whether it is the shapes, lines and curves which letters create that inspire the work, as in vibrant wall pieces by Debbie Smyth that motivate the work. Or simply the fluidity of the writing, artists exploring this theme express the diverse approaches and outcomes this one theme can manifest. Many of the artists have chosen to utilise the meaning of their selected text or the message that the text communicates to inform their work. Other artists, such as Aino Kajaniemi take a personal approach to using text with particular memories woven in thread.
The work in this exhibition traverses disciplines. Jewellery will be exhibited alongside silver teacups, ceramic vessels and enamel plates. The variety in material has resulted in an exhibition that intends to capture the endless inspiration of the written word.Clare Hillerby - brooch Walthamstow to Birmingham - silver, paper, perspex, gold, blue green mapClare Hillerby – Brooch

Artists include:  Jonathan Boyd — Gary Breeze — Tabea Dürr — Clare Goddard — Clare Hillerby — Mimi Joung — Alyssa Dee Krauss — Aino Kajaniemi — Hanne Mannheimer — Susanne Matsché — Enya Moore — Cecilia Levy — Bethan Lloyd Worthington — Matthew Raw — Debbie Smyth — Jessica Turrell Ingeborg Vandamme — Sophie Wiltshire — Buddug Wyn Humphreys

Ingeborg Vandamme - memoriesIngeborg Vandamme memories

Jonathan Mathew Boyd | Gallery 2Jonathan Boyd

Susanne Matsché - snake of thoughts: leather, textile Susanne Matsché snake of thoughts: leather, textile

Collage brooch ~ Italy oval -  Clare Hillerby - - at "Forming Words" Flow galleryClare Hillerby – Collage brooch ~ Italy oval

Jessica Turrell - pieces from the 'medal' seriesJessica Turrellnew group of ‘medal’ brooches

Jessica Turrell "Rememberings" PanelJessica Turrell « Rememberings » Panel


Flow Gallery
1-5 Needham Road 
London   W11 2RP   UK
Tel: +44 (0)20 7243 0782


EXPO ‘The WOOD Show’ – FLOW Gallery, London (UK) – 23 Nov. 2011-21 Janv. 2012

The WOOD Show
This exhibition will be based on the different ways artists work with wood within their practice. Each of the fourteen international artists subverts the preconceptions of this material. Ranging from Wycliffe Stutchbury‘s compositions of fallen and forgotten timber to the geometric, painted wooden jewellery of Katy Hackney. Corina Rietveld‘s Birch rings, use the beauty of bark to determine the shape of the ring. Artist’s reference traditional techniques, such as Koto Fukunaga‘s fresh take on the ancient Japanese art of birch vessels and Shigeki Kudo‘s use of the traditional Japanese technique Hegi, the splitting of wood into layers. Markku Lyttinen carves layers of birch plywood into beautiful platters reflecting the undulating Finnish landscape. Others combine wood with various materials, such Adele Brereton mixes traditional Silversmithing techniques with wood; Amanda Caines explores archaeology and recycling, mixing natural and man made objects; Katy Hackney combines wood with the more unorthodox: Formica worktops, toys, chess pieces, spectacle frame off cuts plywood & cutlery handles ……

Artist’s include:  Rut-Malin Barklund — Adele Brereton — Anthony Bryant — Amanda Caines — Grace Girvan — Simon Grainger — Katy Hackney — Sachiyo Higaki — Mark Hanvey — Kota Fukunaga — Tahakashi Kougei — Shigeki Kudo — Markku Lyytinen — Oda Makiko — Malcolm Martin — Hans-Henning Pederson — Corina Rietveld –  Wycliffe Stutchbury.

Corina Rietveld
Corina Rietveld

Amanda Caines
Amanda Caines

EXPO 'The WOOD Show' - FLOW Gallery, London (UK) - 23 Nov. 2011-21 Janv. 2012 dans Alison MAcLEOD (UK) flora-vagi
Flora Vagi

Sachiyo Higaki
Sachiyo Higaki

Rut Malin Barklund
Rut Malin Barklund
Alison Mcleod

Alison Mcleod



FLOW Gallery
1-5 Needham Road    London   W11 2RP   UK
Tel: +44 (0)20 7243 0782


EXPO ‘On Repeat’ – Flow Gallery, London (UK) – 8 Sept.-5 Nov. 2011

  »On Repeat »

This exhibition at flow features the work of eighteen international makers. The exhibition explores the creative process which at times becomes meditative; moving from the mind of the maker to an intuitive action. The process of repetition can create or even determine a form. It allows exploration of volume, decoration and pattern. Repetition creates a rhythm and a flow; it highlights difference, irregularity and the history behind surfaces. It is through repetition that you discover difference, through order and an attempt for the constant, variation is emphasized and the unexpected is found in the familiar. Using different materials and patterns; from lines, dots or looping, all the work has the process of repetition in common. The process of making can be a valuable trigger of inspiration. This is echoed in this exhibition, which aims to encourage people to see and enjoy the subtle variations created from a single repeated act.


Astrid Keller, Birgit Hagmann, Charlotte Sale, Ella Robinson, Evert Nijland, Flora Vagi, Ike Junger, Iris Tsante, Momoko Kumai, Nikolay Sardamov, Noriko Takamiya, Nuala O’Donovan, Renata Francescon, Ritsuko Jinnouchi, Sidsel Hanum, Stacey Bentley, Stine Jespersen, Tsuruko Tanikawa.
Iris Tsante

Iris Tsante considers jewellery as a process of exploring ways to define the sense of « beauty » and « value » in reference to memories of significant objects and the subsequent human/social connections related to them. Tsante’s pieces provide connotations of optimism, simplicity, joy and innocence, revealing at the same time qualities such as fragility and vulnerability.

Flora Vagi - waves & flames brooch

Flora Vagi creates jewelry which not only adorns the body but explores the visual language of an object. » I search discover, transform…. surprise. The materials get a ‘return ticket’ from me, and with their ‘newly dressed souls’ I send them back to the world, where they came from ».
Nikolay Sardamov- Being the basic motif, the circle serves as a starting point: “Intersections” necklace, 2010. Blackened silver.
Nikolay SardamovSense of snow
Nikolay Sardamov has focused on the circle. Through repetitions and overlapping a pattern emerges. He uses the multiplied pattern to arrange figures with different types of symmetry and uses them to construct double-layered forms. The layers cast shadows that overlap and create a notion of movement, like snowflakes falling from the sky.

Momoko Kumai
Momoko Kumai
Momoko Kumai describes her work as « accessing my inner child playing with paper. It is abstract in form – the result of a free-flowing sub-conscious process of folding, twisting and rolling up any kind of paper material ».
Stacey Bentley
Stacey Bentley is inspired by urban scenery, taking inspiration from its patterns and structures. Being attentive to the unexpected and unnoticed components of this industrial environment allows Bentley to discover an elegant and mysterious aesthetic. Her observations are translated into tactile, sculptural forms that play with line, gritty textures and matt finishes.
Ike Junger
Ike Jünger uses a variety of materials and techniques from colourful enamel to gold casting and often incorporating found objects. Her work is organic and enigmatic.
Evert Nijland
Evert Nijland is fascinated by the way nature is visualized by artists throughout art history. His collection titled ‘Naturae’ is inspired by the many floral motives that are used in classical ornaments.
Renata Francescon (céramique, mais si beau ……)

Birgit Hagmann necklace 2011

Birgit Hagmann. This work is based on drawing. Using the wire, the drawing is
transformed into a three-dimensional space. The line creates shapes and explores volume, sometimes delicately, playfully and searchingly and other times confidently, in a straight, clear and powerful way. Thus crystalline-organic structures come to life and become jewellery.



Flow Gallery
1-5 Needham Road, W11 2RP London, United Kingdom
+44 (0) 20 7243 0782


EXPO ‘Fused -contemporary enamel’ – Flow Gallery, London (UK) – 9 Mars-28 Mai 2011

 Fused -contemporary enamel

This show, curated by Melissa Rigby, the Chairman of the British Society of Enamellers, aims to challenge the pre-conceived ideas attached to enamel by questioning technique, process and aesthetic and to explore contemporary artist’s voices within this ancient medium.

Enamelling, the art of fusing glass onto metal with heat, is one of the most ancient and durable means of adding colour to metal. Fused brings together artists who use the traditional enamelling technique in new and exciting ways, creating a fresh visual language for this process. Their application of enamel gives an arresting beauty and unique patina to a diverse group of objects, panels and jewellery.


Artists (for jewelry):
Carola Bauer, Stacey Bentley , Bettina Dittlmann, Lydia Feast, Kirsten Haydon, Hiroki Iwata, Karin Johansson, Kye-Yeon Son

Bettina Dittlmann
Bettina Dittlmann

Bettina Dittlmann is inspired by historical jewellery, ranging from mourning Victorian jewellery to American Indian pieces. Dittlmann studies the historic forms and content, which later influence her own work. Drawing is an important part of Bettina Dittlmann’s life, often a starting point for a piece of jewellery.

Carola Bauer
 Carola Bauer

Carola Bauer captures incidental gestures in her jewellery; the cinema ticket in a coat pocket, twisted to a paper roll or the accordion-folded slip of paper. Bauer hopes to remind the observer of gestures. The surprises that she experiences in the search of forms also happen during the handling and use of enamel colours.

Stacey Bentley

Stacey Bentley

Stacey Bentley is inspired by urban scenery. Becoming increasingly attentive to the unexpected and unnoticed components of this industrial environment allows Bentley to discover an elegant and mysterious aesthetic. The jewellery explores the new possibilities and ideas that industrial liquid enamel can bring to contemporary jewellery.

Karin Johansson
Karin Johansson

Karin Johansson’s work is a treasure hunt among things and stray thoughts that arise and are discarded and then meet again. Out of this process grows something enduring. “I collect, small things that fit in my matchboxes: actual pieces or abstract images caught in flight.”

Kirsten Haydon
Kirsten Haydon

Jewellery is a personal and sentimental medium. Historically, objects were created in the form of miniature representations of landscapes and icons that reminded people of their journeys and experiences. Kirsten Haydon travelled to Antarctica as an Arts Fellow. Since that time she has been exploring the depiction of this landscape, its remoteness and simplicity of landscape. “The sparseness of the landscape allowed me to focus on the man-made objects within it.”

Lydia Feast
Lydia Feast

Lydia Feast explores the concept of contrasting elements. Echoing references to time and nature whilst combining a modern clean aesthetic, this collection ‘Chaos &Calm’ brings together contrasting elements illustrating a harmony between chaos and calm, new and old and silence and noise. Inspired by her research into chaos theory: “the underlining order in some of nature’s most random processes”. Each piece is unique as a result of the carefully controlled but ultimately random outcome.

Kye-Yeon Son
Kye-Yeon Son

Kye-Yeon Son explores positive and negative spaces through her branch structures. Her work symbolizes the human cycle of growth, death, and renewal. They seem to capture intangible emotions, spirits or memories.

Hiroki Iwata
Hiroki Iwata

Hiroki Iwata takes inspiration from nature around him describing it as « an irreplaceable treasure ». His brooches made of silver, enamel and aluminium foil reflect his aim to produce feelings of empathy with the motifs of the natural world in the viewer.



Flow Gallery
Yvonna Demczynska
1-5 Needham Road    London   W11 2RP   UK
Tel: +44 (0)20 7243 0782


Image de prévisualisation YouTube


Alternatives Gallery at COLLECT 2010 (Saatchi Gallery, London, UK) – 14-17 mai 2010

Alternatives Gallery at Collect 2010

Alternatives Gallery at COLLECT 2010 (Saatchi Gallery, London, UK) - 14-17 mai 2010  dans Adrean BLOOMARD (IT) ALTERNATIVES_COLLECT

Relaunched at the Saatchi Gallery in May 2009, COLLECT has an enviable reputation as a premier, annual fair for contemporary craft. Through its presentation of work from the best international applied artists, COLLECT has become a prestigious event in the international cultural calendar gaining the respect and support of many private collectors, museum curators and galleries.

Represented artists by Alternatives Gallery :
Silvie Altschuler, Canada
Adrean Bloomard, Italy
Diana Dudek, Germany
Maria Rosa Franzin, Italy
Hanna Hedman, Sweden
Mari Ishikawa, Japan
Ute Kolar, Austria
Marie Louise Kristensen, Denmark
Margherita Marchioni, Italy
Sonia Morel, Switzerland
Kazumi Nagano, Japan
Ritsuko Ogura, Japan
Giovanni Sicuro, Italy
Janna Syvänoja, Finland
Michelle Taylor, Australia
Fabrizio Tridenti, Italy
Graziano Visintin, Italy

margherita dans Crafts Council (UK)
Margherita Marchioni


Alternatives Gallery Via D`Ascanio, 19  Roma

seront également présents à COLLECT les galeries :  Ateliers Art de France, Electrum gallery (UK), Flow (UK), Galerie Louise Smit (NL), Galerie Marzee (NL), Galerie RA (NL), etc … (voir listing galeries)


Contemporary Polish Jewellery

To mark the anniversary of Poland’s entry to the European Union (in 2004) , Flow gallery is linking up with Gallery Bielak, Krakow.
Director of Flow gallery, Yvonna Demczynska, has selected a group of British jewellers with the intention of representing a diverse hand of the most innovative makers on the contemporary scene. Running parallel to her endeavours, Andrzej Bielak, together with the Polish Association of Jewellery Artists, has picked out a body of work that effectively highlights the excellence in current Polish jewellery.
Andrzej Bielak is at the fore of promoting Poland’s fine art jewellery, having co-founded the Association of Jewellery Artists. We will not be let down by his knowledge, passion or commitment. We particularly look forward to seeing his award winning work.
In drawing attention to some of the jewellers selected, let us look at Bohdan Jan Suchodolski. He has shown in solo and group shows internationally, where his precious materials combine with the more unorthodox. Also taking a mixed media approach are Antek Zaremski and Arkadiusz Wolski. Interestingly, Arkadiusz studied oceanography but set up his own jewellery workshop on graduation. He favours amber, but also employs metal to explore his ideas.

Also changing tack in career post-university is Jacek Byczewski. Having studied sculpture at the Acadamy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, Jacek became a jeweller. From this turning point in 1973 Jacek has gone on to berepresented at over 90 international exhibitions, with work in both public and private collections.
Agnieszka Bruzda‘s executes her simple forms exclusively in metal, as does Mariusz Pajaczkowski. Mariusz lives and works in Warsaw, having co-founded the university gallery ‘Brama’. He uses a variety of precious metals.
Jacek A. Rochacki descends from the well known artist/jeweller family. His distinguished career having seen him win multiple awards at the SILVER competitions in Legnica.

The list of work coming to Flow Gallery is completed by that of Pawel Kaczynski, Bogumil Bytomski, Marcin Tyminski, Krzysztof Roszkiewicz, Krzysztof Piotrowski, Jan Wiszniewski, Maryla Maria Dubiel and Aleksandra i Jakub Wyganowscy.

Jewellery travelling to Poland from Yoko Izawa, Alison Macleod, Katy Hackney, Kaz Robertson, Katie Murphy, Kayo Saito, Jane Adam, Hannah Lamb, Carla Edwards, Tanja Ufer, Katie Clarke, Angela O’Kelly and Laura Baxter.

The trade between Flow Gallery and Gallery Bielak looks to be stimulating and thoughtful. It’s scope maybe necessarily defined, but it is hoped that the transfer of ideas will extend beyond that solely between Britain and Poland.

Paweł Kaczyński Pawel Kaczynski bracelet

Contemporary Polish Jewellery dans Agnieszka BRUZDA (PL) brosza%20silver
 Andrzej Bielak

brooches dans Andrzej BIELAK (PL)
Bohdan Jan Suchodolski
Jan Suchodolski  - necklace

Bogumil Bytomski Bogumil Bytomski - bracelet

Ring by Grzegorz Blazko. Silver with acrylic. Grzegorz BŁAŻKO Ring – Silver with acrylic
Pawel Kaczynski  necklaces

jacek rochacki - earrings Jacek A. Rochacki
Agnieszka Bruzda necklace

Jacek byczewski Jacek Byczewski
Jacek Byczewski – necklace made of stainless steel and gold (Mercurius Gedanensis Jewellery Competition- 2008- TECHNICAL INNOVATION award)

Marcin Tyminski Tomasz Ogrodowski
Aleksandra i Jakub Wyganowscy
Arkadiusz Wolski

Goldsmithing Artists` Association (STFZ = Stowarzyszenie Twórców Form Złotniczych)
STFZ co-organize top Polish exhibitions and competitions of artistic goldsmithing like « Revues of goldsmithing forms » of Legnica, and annual « Prezentacje » in Waszawa; formerly the artistic part of jewellery and watchmaking fairs « PAI TIME » in Warszawa and the « CAMELOT » of Kraków. The informative tool of STFZ is newsletter « INFO », edited 5 – 7 times per annum, and the web site. STFZ actively participate in international goldsmithing life cooperating with many goldsmithing associations, nets of contacts and by support to the
à cette page, une galerie de photos des oeuvres des créateurs Polonais

mise à jour sept.2012 : n’arrive plus à la page de STFZ – voir page STFZ sur Facebook


Bielak Gallery

Slawkowska St.
Cracovia (Poland/Pologne)
tél : +48 601 43 53 99
fax  +48 12 637 46 34


Norwegian jewelry – bijoux de Norvège

Norwegian Contemporary Crafts

The impressive diversity of contemporary Norwegian work is being showcased by Flow Gallery in February 2005, with the assistance of The Norwegian Association of Arts and Crafts (NACC) and the Royal Norwegian Embassy.

Based in Oslo, NACC now comprises about 800 professional practising makers as members. A body of makers and representative work has been selected from multiple disciplines. Each brings something different to this very interesting and enjoyable show.

From the jewellery camp we see diversity exhibited by individual makers; Louise Nippierd considers her playful, poetic pieces just as important as her socio-political ones. Dina Hald‘s approach is to create a story and draw its characters in silver, these she colours in with enamel. Also using metals ability to capture a human quality is Toril Bjorg, who looks to emphasise the mental strength of the woman through his work. Alida Rudjord Røiseland wants to amuse, she sees humour as an important characteristic and aims to involve it in her work. Janicke Horn works intuitively from nature, and functionality often comes second to the sculptural qualities she seeks. In a similar vein Heidi Sand‘s working method involves letting her ornamental pieces develop naturally, the form emerging as she cuts into the metal. By contrast, Millie Behrens composes her minimalist pieces out of a love of geometry, which she likens to poetry. The title of Lise Schønberg‘s jewellery for this show is ‘partly clouded – good visibility’, and her pieces are full of both humour and colour. Also having fun is Anne Lene Løvhaug, she takes objects from the domestic sphere out of context by associating them with the body, her belief is that some objects ‘could do with a little sightseeing’. Both hollow-ware and enamel have long standing traditions in the history of Norwegian crafts, but Synnøve Korssjøen is mostly alone in using the hollow-ware technique to create her jewellery and objects. For Liv Blåvarp beauty never lays in perfection, and despite the superlative craftsmanship, her wooden pieces reflect a love of people with flaws and peculiarities. One of the most established makers on show, Liv’s pieces are collected by the Queen.


Norwegian jewelry - bijoux de Norvège  dans Gal. Flow (UK) nor3
nor4 dans Hildegunn ANDA (NO)


 (THANKS to Flow gallery for report & information)

Contemporary Swedish Jewellery – bijoux de Suède

Parfois je vous présente des expositions dont la date est largement dépassée … mais dont le thème -et l’intérêt- dépassent largement la date !
En particulier, parmi mes « recherches italiennes », une série d’expositions « par pays » qui nous permet un tour de l’Europe des plus intéressants !

A 2005 touring exhibition showing the works in Italy of fifteen Swedish jewellery artists.
The selection of the artists was made on the basis of conceptual work that could reflect the c
ountries’ culture, nature, climate and general characteristics, representative of the Scandinavian way of interpreting life.

Contemporary Swedish Jewellery - bijoux de Suède dans Agnieszka KNAP (PL) svedesi
Sonja Ekman

« Contemporary Swedish Jewellery«  is curated by Marie-Josè van den Hout, the director of Galerie Marzee in Nijmegen Netherlands and it is touring five countries and 7 venues.
Appreciating that van den Hout considers rings small sculptures, and necklaces akin to drawings and paintings, helps us understand her curatorial decisions.
The fifteen artists selected for this exhibition can be loosely considered part of the Scandinavian ‘New Jewellery’ movement; so we see work displaying the visually provocative expression that is its hallmark. No
longer do these makers tie their inspiration exclusively to nature and geometry, they absorb and rework the multiple modes of expression that contemporary popular culture emits.
These pieces discuss perception, identity, social interaction, art theory, philosophy and sociology; consider the artistic statement of each piece asides to its wearable functionality. Van den Hout has chosen outspoken, more conceptual pieces, where we find form replaced by content. Be aware of self-referential comment on the Swedish traditions of nature and romanticism, and see this less design-orientated approach as refreshing as it is challenging.
Witness Aud Charlotte Ho Sinding‘s grand rubber jewellery, in particular her birds ‘carried’ by the wearers hand; defiantly sculptural, they question the bond between us and nature.

Aud%20Charlotte%20Ho%20Sook%20Sinding dans Anna UNSGAARD (SE)
Aud Charlotte Ho Sindingbirds ‘carried’ by the wearers hand – rubber

The relationship between us and the actual material, is provoked by Ulrika Swärd‘s sound pieces. Her work gives proof to organic source materials – such as metal and pearls – not necessarily being the only starting point. In contrast, Charlotte Skalegård and Anna Unsgaard‘s work echoes the perfectionist goldsmith techniques of past generations; in so much as their work is imbued with a real sense of artist’s labour. Although their choice of materials may be stainless steel and copper, the detailed textile techniques used reference the artistic process in a very clear way.

Ulrika%20Sward dans Aud Charlotte HO SINDING (SE)Charlotte%20Skalegard dans Castello HANSEN (SE)
Ulrika Swärd - sound pieces (euh… « coussin péteur » ??)
Charlotte Skalegård

Agnieszka Knap‘s leaf and flower shaped pendants have a porous enamel surface giving a scorched appearance; an interesting juxtaposition of the beautiful with the distressed

Agnieszka%20Knap dans Charlotte SKALEGARD (SE)
Agnieszka Knap

Dental plaster is the unexpected material involved in Ida Forss‘s work, look out for her witty teeth necklaces. This humorous theme runs to Sissi Westerberg‘s brooches and bracelets, melting as they do over pocket lips. Tobias Andersson‘s badges in various precious and semi-precious materials will make you smile too.

Ida%20Forss dans Gal. Flow (UK) Sissi%20Westerberg dans Gal. Marzee (NL)
Ida Forss                              –         Sissi Westerberg

Tobias%20Andersson dans Ida FORSS (SE)
Tobias Andersson

Karin Johansson, Mirjam Norinder and Mona Wallström are all showing necklaces, but each so different to the next, in terms of both material and content. Similarly, Castello Hansen and Tore Svensson‘s rings could not be more different and unique

Karin%20Johansson dans Karin JOHANSSON (SE)Mirjam%20Norinder dans Mirjam NORINDER (SE)Castello%20Hansen dans Miro Sazdic LOWSTEDT (SE)Tore%20Svensson dans Mona WALLSTROM (SE)
Karin JohanssonMirjam Norinder  — Castello Hansen ring –  Tore Svensson rings

Miro%20Sazdic%20Lowstedt dans Sissi WESTERBERG (SE)

Mona%20Wallstrom dans Sonja EKMAN (SE)

Miro Sazdic Lowstedt               –                     Mona Wallström

 (THANKS to Flow gallery for report & information)

Artistes présentés : Tobias Andersson — Sonja Ekman — Ida Forss — Castello Hansen — Karin Johansson — Agnieszka Knap — Miro Löwstedt — Mirjam Norinder — Aud Charlotte Ho Sook Sinding — Charlotte Skalegård — Tore Svensson — Ulrika Swärd — Anna Unsgaard — Mona Wallström — Sissi Westerberg

«  Beauty becomes complicated
Compared to the development in countries like the Netherlands, Germany and Great Britain, Swedish art jewellery was long marked by slow changes and preservation of traditional craftsmanship qualities.
The new jewellery movement gained widespread acclaim in Sweden only in the late 1980s. However, since the entry of this new and liberated approach in regards to materials, techniques and themes, its application has often been cautious.
The vulgar, grotesque and in other ways visually provocative expressions have only in recent years made its way into the Swedish jewellery scene. Today, nature and geometry are seriously trailing behind as the preferred sources of inspiration, in favour of contemporary popular culture and its wide-ranging modes of expression.
In this meaning the development in Swedish jewellery has clear parallels to movements in other artistic fields, not only in the realm of craft. As the domain expands towards discussions on perception, the making of the identity and social interaction, the relation to art theory, philosophy and sociology is becoming increasingly important.
Form is replaced by content.
There has also been a shift in working methods in the sense that the jewellers increasingly often formulate clearly defin ed thematic projects, which are left behind upon completion as they move on to the next project.
The artistry becomes a stretch of events rather than a continuous flow. This poses challenges to an audience that has become accustomed to appreciate gradual development and refinement of expressive means.
Additionally, to a growing extent many young jewellers make embodiments of examinations, events and meetings rather than concrete jewellery. This dematerialization of the art object carries clear references to the art of the 60s and 70s, along with influences from the virtual dimensions and communication patterns in contemporary society as well.
It is important to remember that the Swedish body of artists has become increasingly international. Many of the artists in the exhibition have studied abroad and several of them are born in countries other than Sweden.
Compared to most other branches of Swedish craft, the jewellery artists have been actively partaking in the international exchange arena, partly as a result of having been schooled by university teachers with foreign backgrounds and frequent participation in workshops abroad.
That the aim is shifting focus away from a nationally defined style is evident.
In this context it is worth noting that some jewellers still favour moti fs that expressively side with the famed Nordic sense of nature. Today however, this is rarely simply a result from unreflecting romanticism or tradition. Many pieces based on natural forms hold double meanings: they are not only referring to nature but also become commentaries to the tradition of nature romanticism itself.
In Sweden, this tradition may be traced back to the poetry of the 18th century, and reached its most significant form during the era of nationalist flirtation in the past centurial turn. Today, the Swedish relationship to nature is mirrored and retold through channels such as advertising and popular culture. To the artists, the nature theme lends itself as a mean to relate to questions on identity, tradition and change.
Karin Johansson may serve as an example of an artist who forwards parts of the nature-oriented tradition, but in the form of a personal world of imagery with many idea sources. In the geometrical forms that dominate her jewellery, flowers, leaf forms and other references to the natural world are often present.
However, there is an affinity to an unobtrusive and emotional sphere established here as well, where a subtle play of opposites takes place, between the concealing and the advancing, between isolation and interaction.
In many aspects however, it is the human body that has become the unifying basis to the jewellers. The fact that the object of jewellery, positioned in the interface between the individual’s body and society, offers unique access to current discussions within a number of cultural contexts is more or less a truism.
To the young Swedish jewellery artists, the subject of the body is not so much an art historical motif as it is a thematic assessment of it as a concept and social phenomena. The jewellers tend to relate to the body as a changeable quantity, shaped by the rules and values of the external world as well as by the individual’s feelings and yearning for expression.
Every once in a while, the unexpected or even unpleasant presses through the conventional beauty. Teeth, fingers and eyes may appear as motifs, with evident references to the state of interchangeability that body parts have today. Cloning in the medical sciences, as well as today’s frequently exposed fascination for plastic surgery, both form foundations for artistic themes.
That this fits well into the international trend of jewellery as well as the visual arts hardly needs mentioning.
In Aud Charlotte Ho Sook Sinding‘s sculptural rubber jewellery, with their somewhat ghostly depictions of flowers and birds, a contradictory bond between human and nature transpires. The carrier must subject to Aud Charlotte Ho Sook Sinding’s voluminous pieces of jewellery, resulting in the appearance of nature getting the upper hand.
In this sense the objects join up with the discussion on the relationship between carrier and object. Who in this relationship is the carrier of expression?
If the jewellers whose theme is the body have set beauty aside, there are others that consciously choose the beautiful as a mode of communication. Beauty can be emotionally moving and create reactions: as an object with historical ties to desire and seduction, the pretty piece of jewellery opens up to associations of power and submission.
Beauty becomes complicated in the complex process of personal interpretation and projections. The contradictions are often readily present in the artistic manifestation of the beautiful. In Agnieszka Knap‘s leaf and flower shaped pendants, the beautiful balances on the verge of a violent expression. The porous enamel surfaces can give a scorched impression, like human bodies whose keepers have burnt them in the sun for the sake of vanity.
The enamelling, a traditional goldsmith technique, becomes a paradoxical way of communication in a contemporary context. In a text about her work, Agnieszka Knap states that beauty is an instrument and that her jewellery « is about making the viewer associate with certain feelings, situations or memories. « I don’t tell concrete stories, but through the choice of colour and form I want to invoke a personal story in the viewer. »
This goal may seem vague, but is representative of a young generation of artists that are anxious to avoid locking the audience’s relationships to an interpretations of their work to established models. The emphasis is placed on the intimate relationship between the piece of jewellery and its carrier.
Perhaps a common tendency in young art is traceable here, one that aims to avoid too substantial pretences. Meetings and events – creating new contexts formed by the individual viewer’s own life experiences – is more important than the universal autonomy of the art piece.
The relationship to the materials offers another access point to the review of Swedish art jewellery in this exhibition. Over the past two decades a gradual change has occurred regarding the choice of materials. Metals, stones and pearls are no longer the obvious starting point.
Some of the pieces by Ulrika Swärd are examples of how even sound can be an element in the production. Organic and in other ways frail materials are also used by many jewellers and the characteristics of the material then itself turns into a carrier of meaning. Brittleness can be used as a metaphor for the perishability of life and a reminder of that we must take care with the most fragile and valuable of all – human relationships.
In many pieces, not only the materials emerge carriers of meaning, but the time factor as well. Some examples are Charlotte SkalegŒrd and Anna Unsgaard‘s detailed textile techniques that charge the objects with time – a true scarcity in our day.
The prosaic materials, thin wire made of stainless steel and copper respectively, are not inherently valuable, but the time that has been invested in the manufacturing process makes the pieces lavish, and therefore alluring objects. In contrast to many older and perfectionist goldsmith techniques, the traces of artist’s labour are clearly perceptible.
The artistic process and its stretch into the time dimension becomes a motif itself. In Anna Unsgaard‘s pieces the material carries obvious references to communication as well. The copper wire is recycled from old telephone lines. In the age of wireless communication, the copper wires provide a link to a recent past, yet at the same time articulate a reminder of the communicative aspect in the particular act of carrying a piece of jewellery.
 » (Love Jšnsson Craft and design critic)

Anna Unsgaard- galerie Alternatives
Anna Unsgaard


EXPO ‘also known as jewelry’ exposition itinérante – 3-9 mars 2010, Institut Français de Munich (DE) – 25 juin-15 aout 2010 IDAR-OBERSTEIN (DE)

contemporary french jewelry

Idar Oberstein schmuck 2010

Exposition itinérante / touring exhibition
itinéraire et dates :
-Galerie Flow, Londres (UK) 19 mars – 25 avril 2009
-Galerie Alternatives, Rome (Italie) 11 juin – 10 juillet 2009
-Galerie Velvet da Vinci, San Francisco (USA) 16 septembre – 25 octobre 2009
-du 3 au 9 mars 2010,  Institut Français de Munich, salon bleu et salon jaune,
Kaulbachstrasse 13, Munchen – tél 089 28 66 280 – C’est la première fois qu’une telle sélection de bijoux conceptuels français est montrée lors de la Foire-Exposition Schmuck de Munich (programme de Schmuck 2010 sur le site de Klimt02 : )
-Villa Bengel, Idar-Oberstein 2010 - 25 juin – 15 aout 2010

EXPO- Also known as jewellery is a traveling exhibition with 17 artists -

« Contemporary jewelry, in France and abroad, is undergoing a spectacular evolution : in recent years, it has both staked out new territories of experimentation, and claimed a pivotal position between art, design and traditional craft. The title of this exhibition underlines the specificity of contemporary jewelry, and the ambiguity inherent to a craft-based, boundary-pushing practice : the work selected is thus both alien to its tradition, and well versed in its history. The selection for this touring show focused on the work of 17 artists – French, or working in France - who together make a convincing case for the vitality of this rather under-exposed part of the European contemporary jewelry community.

This project is part of the ongoing program by La Garantie, Association for Jewelry, founded in 2007 in Paimpont (France). The purpose of this association is to promote jewelry outside its primary audience of makers, collectors, and gallery owners. The aim is to increase its visibility, and encourage confrontations with amateurs and specialists alike, through various approaches : historical conceptualization, the confrontation of current practices, the promotion and critical analysis of contemporary trends. The diverse backgrounds of the association’s founding members – two makers, two PhDs, one curator – reflects our ambition to establish a self-sufficient cultural `task force´ able to collaborate with both institutional and private partners. » (Merci pour cette présentation à la « Velvet da Vinci » Gallery)

Participating artists : Claire Baloge • Babette Boucher • Brune Boyer-Pellerej • Frédéric Braham • Monika Brugger • Carole Deltenre • Joanne Grimonprez • Sophie Hanagarth • Ulrike Kampfert • Emmanuel Lacoste • Catherine Le Gal • Florence Lehmann • Christophe Marguier • Amandine Meunier • Jana Natier • Nathalie Perret • Maud Traon

Je ne vous communique pas cette information pour l’exposition en soi, mais bien pour ce paragraphe que j’ai souligné en rouge et qui m’a sauté aux yeux : il existe donc en France des gens qui veulent aider au développement et faire connaître la création de bijoux contemporains FRANCAIS !! J’ai été époustouflée, surprise, et … REJOUIE ! Enfin ! cela a le mérite d’être connu et reconnu, dit et diffusé !!
Sophie Hanagarth, 'Goldshit II' BroochEmmanuel Lacoste, 'Langues' Tongue JewelsMonika Brugger, 'Marianne as roberts' Brooch - LOL !!!Florence Lehmann, 'Naissance Bien Tournée' NecklaceAmandine Meunier, 'Roads Never Traveled' Necklace

Carole Deltenre, 'Nymph' BroochesFlorence Lehmann, 'Naissance Neuf Perles' NecklaceFlorence Lehmann, 'Naissance Neuf Perles' Necklace (detail)Nathalie Perret, 'Paliceder' Necklace Brune Boyer-Pellerej, 'Cheminez' Ring

Sophie Hanagarth, ‘Goldshit II’ Brooch  Emmanuel Lacoste, ‘Langues’ Tongue Jewels Monika Brugger, ‘Marianne as roberts’ Brooch – Florence Lehmann, ‘Naissance Bien Tournée’ Necklace  — Amandine Meunier, ‘Roads Never Traveled’ Necklace — Carole Deltenre, ‘Nymph’ Brooches –  Florence Lehmann, ‘Naissance Neuf Perles’ Necklace & detail — Nathalie Perret, ‘Paliceder’ Necklace — Brune Boyer-Pellerej, ‘Cheminez’ Ring


LA GARANTIE – ASSOCIATION POUR LE BIJOU - Objet : organisation d’évènements artistiques, expositions d’art, colloques, festivals, workshops, journée d’études, plates-formes d’échanges, ou toutes autres manifestations à caractère culturel, la rédaction de textes et la production d’objets, l’édition de brochures, catalogues, livres et divers autres ouvrages et objets, la constitution d’un fonds de documents et d’oeuvres, le recueil, la préservation et l’analyse de toutes données (objets, documents, archives, dessins, films et autres supports) relatives à la profession de bijoutier, exploitation de ces données à des fin scientifiques et de mise en valeur de cette profession et de ses produits sous toutes les formes possibles, décloisonner les activités liées au bijou, et non la représentation d’une profession ou de ses acteurs.
Siège social : Le Fourneau, 35380 Paimpont. (déclarée au J.O. en déc. 2007)