EXPO ‘UNEXPECTED PLEASURES’ – Design Museum, London (UK) – 5 Dec. 2012–3 Mars 2013
UNEXPECTED PLEASURES
The Art and Design of Contemporary Jewellery
A Design Museum, London touring exhibition
Bringing together almost 200 objects from around the world, Unexpected Pleasures celebrates the work of contemporary jewellers who have challenged the conventions of jewellery design.
Curated by jewellery designer and maker Dr. Susan Cohn, the exhibition offers a survey of contemporary jewellery presented through a number of themes: Worn Out – celebrating the experience of wearing jewellery, Linking Links – looking at the ways in which meaning and narratives are expressed in jewellery and A Fine Line – offering insights into the origins of contemporary jewellery today, highlighting key instigators of the contemporary jewellery movement.
The exhibition will feature prominent UK and international jewellers including Wendy Ramshaw, renowned for her complex geometric designs, Hans Stofer’s intricate wire form jewellery, Gijs Bakker’s conceptual adornments and delicate abstract pieces by Dorothea Pruhl.
« UNEXPECTED Pleasures, an exhibition of the world’s ugliest, loveliest, most intriguing contemporary jewellery, opened at the National Gallery of Victoria International yesterday.
»Everything here is designed to be worn, » said guest curator and jewellery designer Susan Cohn.
Visitors took that as a challenge, moving through 180 dimly lit curiosities by the world’s most radical designers, trying to imagine what it would be like to wear a necklace of glass and ceramic dildos. Or a tubular »veil » collar like a pearly plastic version of Ned Kelly’s helmet. Or a cluster of rusted bolts and nails on a silver »Screw Ring ».
»After procreation and survival, our next instinct as humans is adornment, » Cohn said when asked, »Why? »
»Adornment is about attracting a mate, which in turn, is about procreation and survival. »
Some humans, however, obviously require more complex, intellectual adornments than others. »Yes, some wearers will want something that speaks that way for them, » Cohn said. Among the exhibits was a vast choice of such expression, from the minimalist exquisitry of a grey sunray-pleated yoke, to a clump of small pale »tumours », photographed bursting through a model’s frock. The latter was in a category of radical ideas.
NGV director Gerard Vaughan said the exhibition offered »a fresh view of the many meanings associated with jewellery ».
The visiting director of London’s Design Museum, Deyan Sudjic, said it was the result of a »long, drawn-out, cerebral process », and that is precisely how it felt.
Unexpected Pleasures: The Art and Design of Contemporary Jewellery, is a Design Museum, London, exhibition funded by the Joan and Peter Clemenger Trust.
It is free and runs until August 26, when it will travel to London. (Daily Life.com.au)
Doug Bucci, USA, Trans-Hematopoietic neckpiece (2010).
Susie Ganch, USA, Yellow dust, brooch (2010)
David Bielander, Scampi, armband/bracelet, 2007
Karl Fritsch Screw ring 2010 silver, nails, screws
Karl Fritsch, New Zealand, Steinhaufen, ring 2004
Hyewon Kim - Torn 1 (2011) – resin, twigs Photo: Myoungwook Huh


Blanche TILDEN – Speed, neckpiece 2000 borosilicate glass, titanium, anodised aluminium
Felieke van der Leest – necklace
Gijs Bakker Rose necklace – Colour photograph in laminated plastic (1983)
Dorothea Prühl Habicht (Hawk), 2006 necklace, elm wood – H 40 cm
First on show at the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, 20 April – 26 August 2012, this exhibition will also tour to the Design Museum in London, 5 Dec 2012 – 3 Mar 2013. Melbourne based designer and maker Dr. Susan Cohn (interview with The Age) has curated this exhibition for the Design Museum and is also co-author of the substantial catalogue documenting this event as well contributing to the discussion about contemporary design and making.
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